how level does a m101a2 trailer need to be - realistically

[rustystud]

That sounds like the shock was bad. I had one go bad and it would do the same thing just slowing down for a stop sign. I've towed these thousands of miles and had no problem when all the parts were in working order.

Your probably right. Though usually it worked just fine. It was that one time going down that steep grade and the trailer was tongue heavy.

 

[rustystud]

Though most people here forget these trailers where meant to be towed by larger vehicles then our civilian rigs. Unless your towing it with a 3500 series 1 ton Chev, Ford, or Dodge. So if it applies the brakes a bit, the tow vehicle doesn't care much.
Just be honest for a moment. A 1.25 ton Hummer versus a Jeep towing this trailer. Or better yet, a deuce towing this trailer versus the Jeep.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Meh, the m37 wasn't too much bigger than modern pickups. No brakes on that version though(m101).

 

[quickfarms]

Meh, the m37 wasn't too much bigger than modern pickups. No brakes on that version though(m101).

3/4 ton rated truck from an era before military or most of the country new what today's freeway speeds are

 

[Tinstar]

Like mentioned, it really depends on what your going to do with it.
I've seen an FJ with a heavy trailer that really squatted the rear, to the point of the FJ having steering issues.

Hauling heavy items with a high center of gravity and that 4" off level will definitely matter.

But if your like most of us, hauling some wood, dirt, or gravel etc., you should be just fine.
The FJ isn't that heavy and a fully loaded or overloaded trailer will cause serious control issues.

You could install E rated shorter tires. It will help a bit.
AirLift airbags on the FJ will solve any sag issues and help the ride overall.
Not that expensive.

Just buy a M1008/28.
Problem solved.

 

[hplacess]

thanks for all of the replies!

as the OP here is what I am thinking after reading all of the replies (for anyone who falls over this thread in the future):

1. being able to swing open the 'side swinging rear door' on the FJ Cruiser is important to me; a higher pintle plate will not allow the door to swing open - so I will stay with what I have.

2. as is, it is 'close enough' to level. it handles well on side roads and highways. I think it is safe.

3. I will look at airbags for the rear of the FJ Cruiser to prevent rear spring sagging with heavy loads - looks like for around $100 one is good to go.


I bought 2 Chevrolet 8 lug wheels/tires off of CL today (got lucky - I recently bought 2 m101a2s, so now I have a spare for each). it was a 25 minute ride in each direction - county roads, side streets, highways. The trailer handled well empty; the trailer handled well with the two wheels in the back (small load, I know, but something).



thanks again!

 

[Tinstar]

I have used AirLift airbags on different trucks for over 20 years.
They make a very good product
I have a set on my GMC conversion van right now.

A set will add value to your truck and once you experience the difference in ride and load capability, you will wonder why you didn't get a set sooner.


Good score on the wheels.
Those trailers tow great, like their not even there.

 

[capodecina]

I haven't added them yet, but another FJ owner hauling an M101A highly recommended adjustable airbags in the rear suspension. I don't seem to need them yet, but if I start getting any sag I will. From your pictures I couldnt tell if you had an adjustable plate for the pintle hook - There is a 3 position adjustable plate that you can use that should help you to even out. I have mine pretty much spot on level from what I can tell, and my rear door does swing all the way open.

 

[NormB]

My previous riser for my previous M1101 trailer bent when the lunette ring got bound up during a turn. In hindsight I think the pintle was too small, and the riser not up to the task. This time around I went heavy duty on both. The heavier pintle seems bigger to me.
The first two pics shows the previous riser, the last shows the one I have now.

Gotta ask, 'cause I'm about to do the same with my Tacoma (pintle plus riser).

There are a LOT of mfrs out there, reading similar complaints on some available through amazon and epay.

I'm thinking - based on measuring at least twice - I'll need about 8" of rise, or the many-holed plate you're showing here.

Mind saying what brand this one is?

Thanks.

Norm

 

[Mainsail]

Hi Norm,

This is the riser I'm using: https://www.etrailer.com/Pintle_Hitch/B_and_W/BWPMHD14005.html

This is the pintle hook: https://www.etrailer.com/Pintle_Hitch/Tow_Ready/63014.html

 

[WSTEPHENS]

I have towed my trailer with a 3/4 ton and two 1 ton Rams and the 2018 I have now has 33+ tires and the trailer still runs low at the pintle. I pulled it from Delaware to Wyoming in 2012 and the cover is a parachute and felt like I was pulling a 5th wheel.

 

[Jeepadict]

The trailer needs to be level. This issue is more prevalent with the surge brakes. Your nose down situation could cause the brakes to drag. There is an adjustable front piece that is available for the surge brake assembly.

Unless you have upgraded the FJ's suspension and added airbags the situation will get worse when you load the trailer.

I think it is time for you to lift the FJ and get some bigger tires.

Where does one find this illustrious adjustable front piece that is available for the surge brake assembly?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[quickfarms]

Croft trailer supply

 

[juanprado]

They are oe stupid expensive.

Link to mfg. Call their number to order or find dealer. Check out pdf

https://www.mendenhallindustries.com/brake-actuators.html

Ch

 

[Bthor1]

hi.

Question about how level a m101a2 trailer needs to be - realistically.

From what I have read, general rules of thumb are that any trailer should be level, or near level, and it is better nose down than nose up. But looking at people towing all types of trailers on the road, that is not always the case.


So, I finally got my freshly Behr painted GP m101a2 on the road after a major struggle of trying to get it registered in NJ.

I hooked it up to my Toyota FJ Cruiser and took it for a long ride. All in all, the trailer handles extremely well. I am thrilled with it.


So now on to the specifics about 'level':

when the trailer is not connected to a vehicle, and adjusted to be perfectly level, it is 30 inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer box in the front and rear.

When the trailer is connected to my vehicle, with the pintle hitch plate I have on the vehicle now, it is 26 inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer box in the front and 34 inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer box in the rear. Please check out the pics to see what it looks like. A difference of about 4 inches.

One good thing about the current setup is that I can still swing open the rear door of the vehicle. The trailer handles well as is when towed - I am not detecting any issues with it not being level.

I know I can get a taller hitch plate to level out the trailer, but from my measurements I think I might not be able to swing open the rear door anymore.

So, I am wondering if that 'front of the trailer 4 inches nose down' (from 30 inches level to 26 inches nose down) is 'ok'. Can that 4 inches difference cause safety issues or problems.

Thanks in advance for any advice, opinions, or experiences you might share. I have not had a trailer like this before.





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That looks about the same level as my Tacoma with an empty trailer. Ill post a few pictures later. You do want a little nose low to help keep the pintle from rattling around alot

 

[Coug]

That looks about the same level as my Tacoma with an empty trailer. Ill post a few pictures later. You do want a little nose low to help keep the pintle from rattling around alot

You just need enough weight on the tongue, making the tongue lower does help shift the center of gravity a little forward if you are low on tongue weight, but other than that I don't see how it would affect the amount of noise.