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How long does fuel stabilizer last??

JAYHAWK 1962

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Does anyone have a general idea of how long you can store diesel fuel in fuel tank or for that matter in jerry cans . i have heard approx 6 months but with fuel stabilizer it can be up to 12 -18 months. any ideas floating around out there??
 

GoHot229

Member
My experiance with not emptying fuel out of my weed-eater and chain-saw left me with non-functional units that would not run, no matter how much tinkering. Stale gas will 'make the diaphrams in the carb hard' thus you loose the flow and pumping affect in the carb. My neighbor conversly used stabelizer on all his small engines along with a small Ford deisel tractor over the winter here in North Carolina, His were fine and I had problems, the carb diaphrams @ $15.00 a shot to replace and the wrenching involved (mimimal) but wrenching none the less, and it could have been prevented by going down to Advanced Auto and getting some stabelizer for just a small fiew $$$'s On the other hand My Brothers KW 18 wheeler has been setting a year and 1/2 with a 3/4 full tank on the driver side, and has the black/olive colored mossy gunk-up crud just growing away, proof that he used NO STALELIZER. His only saving grace is that I'v been swiping his deisel now and again and useing it in the Deuce, however I do return that amount that I take eventually by going down to the station and filling up the 55 gallon drum and putting it back, thus the new fuel without moss sort of reduceing the amount of moss as the fuel gets rotated coming and going, fill and swipe, fill and swipe = less moss. This years winter I will use stabalizer like my neighbor did, its well worth it if it cost less than the $30.00 I spent in reparing the carbs on the chain-saw and weed-eater. I guess to awnser your original question: I'd say it was sufficient for a season = 4 months. Another thing....mabe these concoctions of used Oil, tranny fluid, stale gas and what-not, may not be conducive for moss and better in that regard.
 

dittle

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Albia, IA
If you're using the old metal jerry cans you need to keep an eye on the liner inside of the can. Once that starts flaking off the can either needs trashed or re-lined as you will be getting chunks of the liner into your fuel system.
 

m-35tom

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eldersburg maryland
you have a diesel weed eater?? never seen one of them!!! diesel is a oil and as such will store for a very long time. gas will not as it evaporates. i once drove home a truck on 18 year old fuel. it was dark but ran well. the fuel, not the night.

tom
 

emr

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landing , new jersey
Go with the many many years, its just fine, 50 is about right, i have seen trucks here with fuel in em for 30 years, never had to drain diesel, just batts and go...
 

royalflush55

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I would not try to store bio diesel for ANY length of time as it will attract water into the tank or can. ULSD will last a long time but still needs some kind of lubricant or additive to protect the injection pump and injectors.
 

rustystud

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Todays diesel is not yesteryears diesel fuel. The "Low-Sulfur" fuel needs additives to lubricate the injection pumps and injectors unless their the newer style made with hardened parts for todays diesel fuels. All that being said diesel fuel will last for "Years" unless you get an algae bloom in it. Use a good "Bio-Cide" and a good fuel extender like "Pri-D" and your fuel will be fresh for over 10 years or more guaranteed . I've actually heard of guys putting "Pri-D" into fuel over 30 years old and the engines ran great. Of course it might have worked great without the "Pri-D" being added.
 

98G

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Todays diesel is not yesteryears diesel fuel. The "Low-Sulfur" fuel needs additives to lubricate the injection pumps and injectors unless their the newer style made with hardened parts for todays diesel fuels. All that being said diesel fuel will last for "Years" unless you get an algae bloom in it. Use a good "Bio-Cide" and a good fuel extender like "Pri-D" and your fuel will be fresh for over 10 years or more guaranteed . I've actually heard of guys putting "Pri-D" into fuel over 30 years old and the engines ran great. Of course it might have worked great without the "Pri-D" being added.
2cycle oil being the lubricant of choice?
 

VPed

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One of the components for algae blooms is water. Treatments are great but limiting the amount of water that ingresses is also important. A well sealed storage tank and as little as possible head space are the goal. Just do not completely eliminate air in a storage tank by filling completely or a ruptured tank may result.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
One of the components for algae blooms is water. Treatments are great but limiting the amount of water that ingresses is also important. A well sealed storage tank and as little as possible head space are the goal. Just do not completely eliminate air in a storage tank by filling completely or a ruptured tank may result.
Up here in the Pacific Northwest it's almost impossible to eliminate all the moisture in a fuel tank. Just opening the fuel cap lets in moisture ! Since it doesn't get that hot here I usually fill my tanks to within 1 to 2 inches from the top to help keep the moisture out. Now if I lived in Texas that would not be possible !
 

porkysplace

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Maybe a good use for your used motor oil (after filtering)?

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Used motor oil is hard on IP's due to the acids in it and the fact no matter how well you filter it you will not get all the fine metal particles out. Best to stay with clean oil or 2 cycle.
 

VPed

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Up here in the Pacific Northwest it's almost impossible to eliminate all the moisture in a fuel tank. Just opening the fuel cap lets in moisture ! Since it doesn't get that hot here I usually fill my tanks to within 1 to 2 inches from the top to help keep the moisture out. Now if I lived in Texas that would not be possible !
Yeah, but at least in the part of Texas I live in, humidity in the air is not a big problem. Last night, the weatherman said the relative humidity was 8%.
 

jpg

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Boston, MA
The boating community has a different take on this. Diesel itself doesn't "go bad". Crud grows in it, and containers deteriorate a drop crud into it, and it's the crud that causes you problems. Additives can make the diesel toxic to microorganisms that would otherwise like to grow there. Good containers can minimize that source of crud. But you still have to worry about moisture entering the tank in the form of humid air, that can then condense into water when the temperature drops. Critters then grow in that water, creating crud. The water can also corrode your container, adding more crud.

Sometimes the diesel has crud in it when you first put it in the tank. It can look OK, but contain enough water and/or microorganisms to cause a bloom in your tank.

Boaters have "fuel polishing systems" that pump the stored fuel through a filter and water separator. If I were storing fuel in bulk, I would rig one of these. You want the fuel exit plumbing to come out of a port at the lowest point of the tank, so any crud will settle there and be drawn out of the tank by the fuel polisher. Pick-up tubes work poorly because they allow crud to settle at the bottom, inaccessible to the fuel polishing system. I'd also rig the fuel return to end in a flexible length of hose that sits on the bottom of the tank and flails around when the pump is running. This would stir up anything that settled at the bottom, helping keep the fuel clean.

Do the math on the size of your tank and the throughput of your fuel polishing system. I'd want to run mine often enough that all the fuel goes through the filter at least once a month. More often might be wise in high humidity like the tropics during monsoon season, or if you live in wetlands. If you live in the high desert where moisture is not an issue, a fuel polisher might be overkill.

You can also get a centrifuge that will spin the fuel and remove particulates. You have to clean it, which is messy, but some say it cleans better than a filter. You need a high-pressure pump to make the centrifuge work. I had a rig like this when I was experimenting with biodiesel. I used a centrifuge and a water separator to polish the stored fuel. Cleaning the centrifuge gave me direct hands-on contact with the crud being removed from the diesel. You might consider that a blessing or a curse.

There is a company that makes a polisher for the lube oil in your engine. It keeps the oil in your diesel clear, not black. Some tap it into the high-pressure side of the oil circuit, usually by putting an adapter between the oil filter and the engine. Some just plug the truck into shore power at night, and run the polisher then with a 110V pump. You have to add plumbing to your oil system, like you do when you add a turbo. But you then have a diesel without crud in the oil. It filters through a roll of toilet paper, believe it or not. You could also use one of these to polish your fuel.

If you run your fuel polisher and it removes a substantial amount of water, you need to polish longer and more often until it rarely finds water. Water is usually visible in a plastic bowl beneath the filter.
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