How often does your fan kick in?

[therooster2001]

So I have 1 vote for #2 from simp... I will test the coolants for SCA's before I start, as the Cor-Guard stuff might actually be SCA's. I also may wait to call Prestone to see if they have a recommendation, I was leaning towards option#2 as well, but because of the semi (and I say that because it's green and for all vehicles) ELC rating, I am still skeptical. Thanks Simp.

Big Block: I bet what the others have posted is right, it's the thermostat, and the NHC250 is a cooler engine. Might block the radiator with cardboard to get it up to temp to test out the fan and the shutterstat. and verify the gauges. The whole SCA thing is definitely confusing at first, and as you can see, I have myself in a middle step. I am thinking the worse case if I add SCA's and cancel out a bit of the other inhibitors, reducing their effectiveness, but at least have proper SCA's that ensure I don't have the cavitation specific to my motor. If I have to do it all over again, I would go basic, basic green, and do the Fleetguard SCA or NAPA SCA, and call it good. IF you are doing a coolant filter at the same time, be sure you consider the filter with dose or non dose when you add it to the system. I actually have a dose filter, so I am holding off on the that as I am going to do the initial pre-charge with SCA. I wish I could say I have this nailed down scientifically, but with this new formula, I really don't. I have heard that the ASTM spec of Prestone + SCA = the needed spec, but am only speculating off another Internet post.

Will post results of the tri test of the Prestone, just so we have a baseline.

 

[simp5782]

My understanding has always been that unless it has fleet charged on the bottle it has no sca additve in it. I used to use CAT ELC and it had fleet charge on it for commercial applications. Or it may say specifically for diesel engines

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[therooster2001]

In other threads on the net I found, even one claiming to be an employee said the Cor-guard is a patented blend of I think 22 compounds or ingredients that give it the "new" protection against corrosion and cavitation. This sounds an awful lot like SCA's to me, but even seasoned guys still mix this up, imagine Joe public. They are also claiming that this can be mixed with any "color". A Universal coolant, which is either awesome or snake oil, I can't tell which. The only thing that doesn't make sense is its supposed to last 5+ years, and I just don't know enough to about this chemistry, but if heavy trucks have to test periodically,and SCA either dissipates or dilutes at some point, is there a new compound that eliminates the SCA shuffle? I figure if they found it, they would be touting it,but until it gets manufacturer cert, I bet they can't recommend it. I'm not deluding myself, I have a feeling this is their attempt to do green plus and take back the market, green just doesn't have the right protection against corrosion and cavitation we need. However, it's silly how many colors there are out there now.

 

[therooster2001]

Well, full flush and change #2 is in the books. I did way too much research and then called Prestone. What I had was an ELC, but is compatible with conventional green. And flushing it should have no side effect, no goop, or gelled stuff. I bet if it went with a different ELC, I wouldn't have been so lucky. So I drained, flushed with distilled water and then filled according to 50/50, and added DCA-4 (two and a half bottles), then ran it. I am letting it cool and then I think I will top the rest off with water, as the glycol looked at the top end of what I wanted, and by my calculations, I have about 10.3 gallons in there. I think I'm all set now. So if you're following along, I ended up doing option #3. Moral of the story, be super careful of what you put in, do SCA's and test.

As far as my fan kicking in too much, I think it just gets hotter around town. Issue is that it's getting cold in Colorado, so at 45 degrees tonight, I had a hard time getting it up to temperature (which is a good thing) and the fan never kicked in at all tonight, as the 10-15 min of driving between flushes was just enough to get it to mix and open the thermostat.

I think we can close off this one, no issues with fan, but ensure fluid is topped, and if you change fluid, do it right!


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