How safe to tow a Deuce with another Deuce?

[TexAndy]

I got a smoking deal on a Deuce off govliq the other day. $770 with winch.

It looks pretty good, but the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I didn't see any puddles around any of the tires, so HOPEFULLY it's just something like the system has lost prime or it's just low on DOT 5 or something.

If not, tho... I do have a working deuce of my own. How safe would it be to tow the inoperable deuce with another deuce and a tow bar? I'd be towing it about 110 miles.

It's looking like it'll cost $500-$700 to hire someone to load it on a flat bed and haul it down for me. I'd like to avoid that if I can...

 

[Carl_in_NH]

The question that pops into my head is, "What if the breaks fail on the truck you're using for towing"? Now you've got 26,000 pounds with no breaks - not just 13,000.

What are the roads like? What speed will you be going? How much traffic and haw many small towns along the way? How confidant are you in the health of the systems on the truck you're going to tow with?

The fault might be simple on the truck and it will be easy to repair, and you can drive it. It might also be the most expensive $500 you ever tried to save if it all goes wrong when you're towing it instead of having it moved to where you can work on it.

-Carl

 

[Divemaster920]

I asked the same question a couple of weeks ago.....you will get 2 opinions...1 do it 2 don't do it.
I would say if you have a good runner AND you have GOOD common sense. You should not have a problem. You have to be the judge of that. If there are hills that can not be controlled by down shifting....I would say no...
How much experience do you have with a lot of weight?
How much common sense do you have?
That's what it comes down to.
Curtis

 

[Barrman]

Drive smart, have the tow bar as far extended as possible, rig up the lights and you should be good to go. Figure 45-50 as the "happy" speed of your rig on long flat runs. Up hill will find you in the 30s. I have flat towed close to 1000 miles now and figured out that 2100 rpm in 5th seems to be the speed the engine gives the most power and slows down less on hills.

 

[TexRdnec]

you're batting 1000 lately with no brake trucks.........

did you look at the other 4 we talked about?

 

[Westech]

I have towed 5 tons with my deuce. Never a problem.. like what was stated.. Drive smart.. keep it a tad on the slow side and the only thing that could be a problem is the tight turns.... The deuce really hates a sharp turn when it being flat towed.

 

[TexRdnec]

anyway, if he does tow it should he disconnect the driveshafts or just let it freespin?

 

[dittle]

I would pull the driveshafts. No sense in making the tow vehicle work any harder than it has to. But that is my

 

[Westech]

Its not worth the effort in taking the shafts out just to tow 100 some miles. Just put the trans and t case in N and give it.

 

[13F10]

I got a smoking deal on a Deuce off govliq the other day. $770 with winch.

It looks pretty good, but the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I didn't see any puddles around any of the tires, so HOPEFULLY it's just something like the system has lost prime or it's just low on DOT 5 or something.

If not, tho... I do have a working deuce of my own. How safe would it be to tow the inoperable deuce with another deuce and a tow bar? I'd be towing it about 110 miles.

It's looking like it'll cost $500-$700 to hire someone to load it on a flat bed and haul it down for me. I'd like to avoid that if I can...

TexAndy,

You need someone with a CDL class "A" that has operated a HEAVY vehicle before?

Where abouts are you located?

I live in Cibolo on the NE side of San Antonio, and I got my CDL. Unfortunately I don't have a rig yet, but I'm sure you could use a chase or lead vehicle, I'll look around for a set of rotory lights, and I've already got a cb, and 3 Mustang GTs.

Call me 210-400-8491 should you decide you want the help, and your not too far away.

Brian

 

[emr]

There is no need at all to remove a drive shaft from a deuce for any lenght of time, Read Read alot of the threads about this, U will be much wiser if U do. but I will say never never ride any distance with the tow bar fully extended, it is much weaker, alot , it should be almost all the way in, one hole showing works for me, never ty the steering wheel let it free spin, if going off at first on soft ground U will need someone to steer the towed truck, 40 should be top speed at best. there is no correct answer, It is up to U, if u read many of the posts about this, U will at least have done your homework.Good Luck and All the best...Practice on a side street first.best a mall parking lot...Randy

 

[clinto]

13F10, even though you are new here, you offered to help this guy out.

Thanks

 

[TexAndy]

I wonder if a 7 ton capacity trailer with an 8 foot wide bed could safely haul one of these things?

 

[m-35tom]

if it has no brake fluid, it went somewhere. not just a case of add some and be ok. there is a leak. removing driveshafts will gain absolutely nothing, just put transfer in nuetral, trans also if you want, makes no difference. trucks tow best with good front tires and high air pressure. keep in mind you cannot use the engine to brake and you have single circuit brakes. unless you KNOW that your brake system is in excellent condition it is a risk. just my 2¢ worth, be safe.

 

[Keith_J]

This is sounding like that time on I-95 back in 1988 when we had a M35 with failed master cylinder/brakes and the soldier behind the wheel tries to slow down with engine braking. That did something really bad with the engine as he jammed it into 2nd doing about 25 MPH. He got it stopped, then called in the recovery vehicle, a 5 ton tow truck.

They hook up the tow bar to the shackle eyes on the front of the deuce, then drop the eye into the pintle. Well, without fluid, the air over hydraulic brakes won't work. And the recovery vehicle operator took a turn too tight, breaking the pintle on the recovery vehicle. Dead deuce now had the tow bar being pushed in front of it until it hit a curb, bending the tow bar UNDER the front of the deuce, horribly bending the front of the frame.

Toasted engine, bent frame. Total loss.

Andy, I will be available next week to go to DRMO and get that truck's brakes running properly. Hopefully we can find parts fast.

 

[dittle]

My only thoughts on removing the drive shaft came from the possibility that Wreckerman would show up with Murphy and drop the transfer case into gear at highway speed . Like I said it was just a thought, not the "golden" way of towing based on the replies that came in afterwards saying its a waste of time.

 

[Keith_J]

I should be up and running when Andy returns next week, been fighting a nasty sinus infection and couldn't be at DRMO...although it has been a few years since I worked alongside 63Bs in the motor pool, I think I can get the brakes working again. Sounds like the master cylinder plunger seals are leaking. The rebuild kit for the master cylinder is cheap IF the corrosion isn't too bad. If the brake fluid doesn't look like Mississippi mud, it is worth it. Regardless, overhaul of the wheel cylinders would be a good idea with a complete flush.

If time is tight and it needs to be moved, we can rent out a storage spot and tow it slowly with tow bar. Don't even think about strap tow with bad brakes.

 

[13F10]

That's what we're here for isn't it? Besides.. I'd rather have something to do one of these days than sit around on my thumbs, and hear some horror story about how he tried to transport it, but caused some accident instead!

Not to mention, I have my CDL, and I figure whose more qualified to BS the state trooper?
Selfless Service PEOPLE! It's a core value!

 

[13F10]

This is sounding like that time on I-95 back in 1988 when we had a M35 with failed master cylinder/brakes and the soldier behind the wheel tries to slow down with engine braking. That did something really bad with the engine as he jammed it into 2nd doing about 25 MPH. He got it stopped, then called in the recovery vehicle, a 5 ton tow truck.

What's the chance of it being a worn out, Master Cylinder Return Spring? If the spring is shot, the pedal would just plumet, and have no resistance wouldn't it?

Either that, or it's leaking internally, that would account for the lack of the puddle on the ground. May just need a o-ring seal, and new booster for the Master Cylinder.

Be sure to drain the water from the air tanks, as this can also cause brake issues.

 

[Keith_J]

What's the chance of it being a worn out, Master Cylinder Return Spring? If the spring is shot, the pedal would just plumet, and have no resistance wouldn't it?

Either that, or it's leaking internally, that would account for the lack of the puddle on the ground. May just need a o-ring seal, and new booster for the Master Cylinder.

Be sure to drain the water from the air tanks, as this can also cause brake issues.

The seal in the master cylinder is a simple cup, the return force on the pedal is from the wheel cylinder brake shoe return springs. There is a spring in the air booster/valve unit (for the air brake system) but these are all simple air-boosted hydraulic brakes.

I will have to drag out my hone, possibly getting new stones. The master cylinder is classic American cast iron, if there is any water, it goes to the wheel cylinders which are much more work to repair especially if you have no wheel dolly for the rears.