Chris Deuce
New member
- 17
- 2
- 0
- Location
- Everett, WA
Hi, I've been running 395/85R20 tires on my deuce for a little while now and had the rubbing issues that everyone experiences on stock split ring rims and decided to tackle this problem.
First step is to remove and reverse the stock steering arm between the pitman arm and knuckle arm (terminology?). If you look at this arm, you'll notice that the front end is about 1.5-2" longer past the ball mount than the rear portion. Undo the cotter pins on both sides, unscrew the giant flathead looking end caps (will require some muscle, patience, and creativity), remove arm, reverse, and re-install using new cotter pins. For the forward cotter pin, install it only on the inner hole so the tire doesn't rip it off if you experience rubbing.
I used a giant flathead screwdriver with a vise grip perpendicular and unscrewed it that way. The forward end has the cap, a spring, and a spacer that I'm assuming is used to dampen the wheels slightly and keep the arm tight on the ball. After reversing make sure to grease the zerk fittings on the arm and check your clearance.
This alone will get you to within 3/8" of full steering capabilities of the deuce. Add in 3/8" longer wheel studs, three 3/4"x1/8" thick washers as spacers, and new lug nuts and you will get full steering capabilities with 395/85R20 tires on stock split ring rims.
(I know, I know, don't use washers as wheel spacers.... but it's 3/8" total on longer studs and the clamping force is what does the holding via friction and centered via the lug nuts. The rim is still centered over the hub and lug nuts torqued down to 500 ft-lbs.)
First step is to remove and reverse the stock steering arm between the pitman arm and knuckle arm (terminology?). If you look at this arm, you'll notice that the front end is about 1.5-2" longer past the ball mount than the rear portion. Undo the cotter pins on both sides, unscrew the giant flathead looking end caps (will require some muscle, patience, and creativity), remove arm, reverse, and re-install using new cotter pins. For the forward cotter pin, install it only on the inner hole so the tire doesn't rip it off if you experience rubbing.
I used a giant flathead screwdriver with a vise grip perpendicular and unscrewed it that way. The forward end has the cap, a spring, and a spacer that I'm assuming is used to dampen the wheels slightly and keep the arm tight on the ball. After reversing make sure to grease the zerk fittings on the arm and check your clearance.
This alone will get you to within 3/8" of full steering capabilities of the deuce. Add in 3/8" longer wheel studs, three 3/4"x1/8" thick washers as spacers, and new lug nuts and you will get full steering capabilities with 395/85R20 tires on stock split ring rims.
(I know, I know, don't use washers as wheel spacers.... but it's 3/8" total on longer studs and the clamping force is what does the holding via friction and centered via the lug nuts. The rim is still centered over the hub and lug nuts torqued down to 500 ft-lbs.)
