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How to turbo a 6.2 using 6.5 parts

True Knight

Active member
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Location
San Pedro, CA
You'll need a oil supply, the one from the 6.5 won't work on the 6.2. I ran from a plugged port on the block above the oil filter Can you get me some pictures of this? why wont it work? how does it feed from the other side? what did you use to run it? low pressure or high pressure line?
From everywhere that I read on this forum and all the 6.5s I looked at the oil feed came from the top of the block in front of the passenger side head. There is not a port there on the 6.2. Some people ran the oil supply from where the oil pressure sender is on the top rear of the block, but they usually said it made the oil pressure show really low. Wherever you get the oil supply from it'll be at high pressure (whatever the oil pump puts out) so you'll need high pressure line. I went with hard steel line. Others have purchased or had stainless braided line made.

Where I took the oil supply (just above the oil filter):


The fitting on the turbo:


The stock fuel line has a T fitting outside the frame just below the firewall. I used the old line to route the fuel straight up to the filter.
 
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Cucvnut

Well-known member
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Carver, Oregon
Im guessing the 4l80 that was attached to it. My fuel system is no longer stock so i will be dealing with running new fuel lines and a new electronic fue pump.
 

Kaiser67M715

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NH
Vacuum pump was used to control boost and emissions if present, nothing else


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Vacuum pump was used to control boost and emissions if present, nothing else
That makes sense. The 4L80 doesn't need any vacuum.


My oil feed is from the back of the block at the top drivers side. I just made a T for the sending unit and oil feed. Ended up using an oil restricter as well. I used a braided line.
Can you give me some details about the oil restrictor? What size is it? How did you know that you needed it? I've heard some talk about needing one, on other engine and turbo setups but never on the 6.2/6.5.
 
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Ilikemtb999

Active member
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Location
Denver, CO
I used a 4an line and was getting some oil leakage into my housing and on the advice of some research an oil restricter seemed the best route. No more oil getting into my housing.

The restricter hole is .065" and goes into the inlet of the turbo feed.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
698
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28
Location
Denver, CO
I'm sure if you're running a 6.5 with a stock line no restricter is needed. I don't think everyone will need one, I just happened to be getting oil in my housing and needed one.

Any speed shop, eBay, summit, etc has oil restricters. You'd need one for your line/application.

i went electric fuel pump near the tank and used the stock 6.5 oil drain tube and block off plate. Make sure to use the oem coupler too. Regular hose will balloon and fail.
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Also, where can I find a source of new intake bolts, I know I could use my used ones off the 6.5 but i would like new also, I found exhaust manifold bolts for cheap but no luck on intake bolts.
I reused my intake bolts. If you want new ones you can go to a hardware store and get new flange head bolts. They are M10x1.5 bolts. And for the length just compare to the old bolts. For the upper intake I had to buy new ones because they were missing. I believe they were M8x1.25, I don't remember the length.
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Hey Cucvnut, the stock "blowoff valve" on mine is not controlled by any outside inputs. There are no wires or vacuum ports. It's solely controlled by the spring pressure inside. I plan on trying it out stock and seeing what kind of boost its making and if it needs to be adjusted I'll open it up.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
You might have a gm3 or gm4 turbo, both had mechanical(spring) actuated waste gate controllers, any turbo that came with the electronic injection pump used a vacuum pot to control the waste gate, no vacuum no boost, his being a 97 had the vacuum pot.

I took mine(97 engine, gm8 turbo) and cut off the upper portion of the pot, welded some threaded rod to the end of the original linkage, and used a spring from the hardware store, people seem to get different results, so I grabbed springs of varying size and strength so I can fine tune later.



Sorry it's sideways, but you should get the idea-cost about $10 for a couple springs and some threaded rod. Plus it will be adjustable, crank nut down for more boost, let it up for less. If boost flutters a bit you'll want a stronger spring, if you can't loosen it enough to drop boost, a softer spring.

I plan on going to a boost pressure referenced waste gate later, but the mechanical will get me on the road, get a feel for the engine, then when I swap in a boost pressure waste gate actuator, I'll have a good idea of boost levels


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
You might have a gm3 or gm4 turbo, both had mechanical(spring) actuated waste gate controllers, any turbo that came with the electronic injection pump used a vacuum pot to control the waste gate, no vacuum no boost, his being a 97 had the vacuum pot.

I took mine(97 engine, gm8 turbo) and cut off the upper portion of the pot, welded some threaded rod to the end of the original linkage, and used a spring from the hardware store, people seem to get different results, so I grabbed springs of varying size and strength so I can fine tune later.
Yup, what he said!

Mine is a GM3 turbo.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
698
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
I have a gm-4. I ground around the two pieces of the pot till the outer one came off, threaded the stock rod more and used the stock spring in there with a washer and lock nut. I adjusted it to hit about 10 psi
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
For those of you that are running a muffler, what muffler did you get? Are you happy with the sound volume and tone? I have the exhaust run with 3" pipe after the downpipe and straight back to the exit in front of the pass. rear tire. It sounds fine until you get on it, then it's a little too loud for a CUCV.
 
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