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How well build are these CUCV's.

jimmy-90

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Just figured i'd add that these trucks are full of electrical gremlins and the fuel filter bases are defective. Also alot of the ones on GL have bent up drive line parts from being moved around with forklifts but if you can get them to run right they are prety good trucks.
 

rfischba1

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Fort Meade MD
CUCV Problems not all trucks

My truck needed a drive shaft and injector pump, then tires and shocks, then altenator replacement. Keep thoses starter bolts tight, mine broke and cost me a fourtune after breaking two bits off trying to drill the bolts out. other than a couple grand not a bad truck.
 

JUNKYARDJOHN

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I worked at G.M. TRUCK & BUS FLINT ASSY. from 83 thru 88. I was a layout inspector. They built blazers, suburban & pickups. About every tenth job was a cucv. My crib was about 65 feet from the end of the final line. I was always amazed, when they got to the end of the line, hit the key & started up & drove away. They were built by about 2500 of the most not careing people you ever dreamed of.:roll: I guess most all of the assy. plants are that way. It was quite an education for a country boy, that was used to a harder you work... the more you earned system. It's no wonder that new cars & truck cost 5Xs what there worth & they need tax dollars to stay in business. All in all g.m. was alot more particular about the govt. vehicals compared to the civilian models as the general sure didn't want to lose that fat contract. John
 
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73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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On average, after buying one, how long does it take for "something" to break or go bad or need replaced?

I'm considering one but I'd kind of like a feel for what I'd be spending soon after I buy one.

Thanks, Paul
If you buy one, then use it for it's intended purpose, A WHEEL CHOCK for BIG, real MVs, you will not have to worry about that SOMETHING to break, go bad, or needing replacement. [thumbzup]
 
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ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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I bought my 1009 in November of 2006 with about 50,000 miles on it. Here's a partial list of things I've replaced:
tires, thermostat, radiator, belts, hoses, glow plugs, glow plug relay, batteries, high pressure fuel pump, 3 starters, 2 starter relays, shocks

The biggest problem I had was with the starter. I finally got a good one from NAPA and the truck is great! I've been very pleased with it. My advice: take the time to find a good one and be prepared to bust a few knuckles. Get to know the people at your local auto parts stores. You can buy a lot of parts for these trucks from Advance, NAPA, and Auto Zone. Make sure you have towing coverage on your insurance or AAA in case you break down. AAA saved my bacon a couple times. These trucks are big enough for work but small enough to ride on a flatbed. Also, stay on this forum. The combined experience and expertise of everyone here will save you a lot of pain.

Have fun!
 

ryan77

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My opinion on the whole cucv thing 70's Dodge or 80's Gm the worst of both brands, Ive had 5 blazers and 3 trucks all of them needed constant attention! Fun to drive and play with but for a daily driver or reliable vehicle forget it!!
 

xenocath

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these trucks are great if you have the knowledge and can repair them yourself. if you buy one of these trucks understand you will have to do some refurbishing on it. golden rule for cucvs " if its rubber replace it if its electical clean it. you want a dependable vehicle you can make these that way over time using mechanical ability and tech manuals, or just buy a cookie cutter crap car off the assembly line that may last 5 years before the "computer" leaves you sitting in a waiting room at a dealership waiting to mortgage your house to pay for the proprietary service on the dern thing. as for me i choose the cucv and all its issues over the plastic crap they seem to sell these days.
 

86m1028

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Just figured i'd add that these trucks are full of electrical gremlins and the fuel filter bases are defective. Also alot of the ones on GL have bent up drive line parts from being moved around with forklifts but if you can get them to run right they are prety good trucks.

Not Attacking you but

Take a current truck from now park it 25-27 years & see what needs to be addressed [thumbzup]
 

86m1028

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My opinion on the whole cucv thing 70's Dodge or 80's Gm the worst of both brands, Ive had 5 blazers and 3 trucks all of them needed constant attention! Fun to drive and play with but for a daily driver or reliable vehicle forget it!!
Id be happy to take that problem truck off your hands :lol:


Dont take this the wrong way, I dont think the chevy cucv is the greatest thing since sliced bread but its a simple to work on TRUCK.
Great bang for the buck.
I think if the truck makers would get back to making trucks like these
they would be doing a lot better.
 
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tankie88

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Redruth,Cornwall,England
Well, i've had mine for 6 years and not had a lot of things go wrong.Starter ring,1 x broken starter bolt,1 x rear UJ,rear diff.Now one of the rear leaf spring shackles have rusted through on the inside(but i'm going to change both sides) and the rear load bay floor needs replacing.Just waitin for bits to come from the other side of the pond.So i reckon they are well built.They must be...some duffhead pulled out in front of me a couple of years ago.Wrote off his escort and bent it like a banana.All i had was a slight downwards turn on the front bumper.
 
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jimmy-90

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Not Attacking you but

Take a current truck from now park it 25-27 years & see what needs to be addressed [thumbzup]
I couldn't agree with you more about new vehicles. I was looking at the wireing diagram for my neighbors 06 chevy pickup and thats outrageous how much electrical stuff that truck has on it. You wouldn't even think that the space shuttle would have that complicated of an electrical system on it. If I wound up with a truck like that and it had sat for 25 years I wouldn't even think about fixing it. I would either gut it and use the frame and body to build a giant mud truck or just push it down into some corner of my yard and forget about it. The pushing it off somewhere and forgeting about it part is why I put that great big bumper on mine lol.
 

NewbCUCV

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This is all great info guys! Great info!! Since I own a 1970 Cougar I KNOW about the "doing stuff on your own" thing. About the only thing I won't do (physically unable to do) is stuff like suspension (front springs, control arms, etc...) but leaf springs shouldn't be a problem and I've done rear shocks on our mini van with minimal hardships. Basically, anything under the hood I'll tackle, even wiring, to a point. Next question: What is the deal with the 24 volt system? Is it NEEDED or can you convert to 12v and be done with a lot of the "gremlins" as was mentioned earlier.
 

eric_banks32

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Granite City, Il
I daily drove my m1008 for a couple of years and all I had to do was basic maintenance. Then the injector pump took a poop. Parked it for the better months and now that the colds coming back around I found a whole 6.2 700r and transfer case for 500 buck. So do some swapping around and back down the road it goes better than new. Not difficult to drive everyday at all if you can turn a wrench and can afford a couple parts. IP being the biggy. But that should be a one time deal unless you own your truck for a looonnngg time.
 

eric_banks32

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Granite City, Il
And THIS part is quite expensive. Any places have them for cheaper than $1100, other than Autozone? Trying to buy one now just got tougher, just this part alone and trying to convince the wife it's s good buy, when parts cost this much!:-(
Any reputable diesel shop should be able to help you out. Locally they want about 600 to rebuild them. There is a guy on flea-bay that does them for 270 plus core. He has come highly recommended on some other boards for good work and prices. Although I don't think he replaces "everything" like the shop I called locally said. Autozone and the other parts places are a rip off on stuff like this and the quality is questionable. I'd stay far away. I used the one off the other motor I bought knowing it could go sooner than later....
 

Barrman

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Find your local Stanadyne dealer. He will be the guy to rebuild the IP. $450-$600 was the prices I found for a complete rebuild within 150 miles of me.
 
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