Hub Removal Tool

[SGT Estum]

Does anyone have advice on where to get the tools required to tear down the front hubs on my M1009? I've seen several threads of guys getting their M1009s with bearings in need of attention so I really want to take mine out, inspect them, and repack them.

Per the manual, I need Nut wrench, J-34616 but I can't find it anywhere. Unfortunately I can't get past "Remove adjusting nut (4)" in paragraph 8-4 of the -20 TM.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[CROM]

It's a pretty standard tool. If you ask your local auto parts store, they can look up the part number for you no problem. You'll need some leverage to get the nut off and a torque wrench to install in properly when you're done.

When I check mine, I lay everything out in the order it goes back in to make it simple. Also, while you're in that deep, you may want to check your spindle bearings, as well. The spindle needs some 'persuasion' to come off. I find that if I lay a piece of 2x4 on the the spindle and smack it with a hammer on one side, then the other I can work it off of the axle.

 

[DavidJBlythe]

It is a four tooth sprocket (usually 1/2" drive). Advance or Autozone should have it in stock as a "1/2-ton Axle Nut Removal Tool (or sprocket)". Ditto on laying it out in order.

 

[SGT Estum]

Yeah, I thought it would be a pretty standard tool too. The guys at the local O'Reilly's have given me two incorrect tools thus far. Maybe the third time is the charm? Or maybe I should try NAPA/Autozone and see what they can do.

 

[doghead]

Surely the tool part number and brand names, have been posted on SS. Perhaps a few minutes of searching would help?

 

[Ripcord01]

www.sears.com

 

[doghead]

Found this with a simple google search for the part number(J-34616 ) you posted in this thread. There were dozens of other results that looked promising too.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/19313-pics-my-rig-new-here-part-number-question.html

 

[CROM]

If you've never had it all off before, here's a pic of when I did mine:

 

[SGT Estum]

Found this with a simple google search for the part number(J-34616 ) you posted in this thread. There were dozens of other results that looked promising too.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/19313-pics-my-rig-new-here-part-number-question.html

Excellent find! Obviously you've got better searching skills than me. I spent quite a bit of time searching the forums but must have gone past that thread based on its title.

NAPA SER 2770
LISLE 27400

 

[DavidJBlythe]

The one that works best fits completely around the nut and the four teeth are facing inward. You may see one whose teeth are just pointing straight out, but that one isn't as easy to use.

 

[SGT Estum]

I picked one up at O'Reilly. The brand is Performance Tool and it's model/PN W1270. It's the six-tooth model for a 1984 M1009.

 

[SGT Estum]

Please pardon my mechanical ignorance here... but are there any tricks to removing the seal that holds in the inner wheel bearing? According to the TM, I need to remove the inner seal (1 but I'm not sure exactly how to do that.

In my picture I assume that #2 is the seal but #1 needs to come out first? Any advice?

 

[DavidJBlythe]

Some people will put the hub assembly back on, screw the same 4-slotted axle nut on the threads, then pull the whole assembly forward really fast. This will catch the inner bearings and stop their movement while allowing the hub assy to come on forward. The bearing and seal will be left on the axle shaft.

 

[top_prop]

I've read the thread Doghead posted above and a few others... I'm confused about one thing... with the M1009's: what year requires the 6 lug tool instead of the 4 lug tool?

 

[Wolf.Dose]

The hub nut tool is a standard chevy part, as mentioned above, for the 1/2 ton rating. Must consider you MY, there was a change in 1986. But the part shops do know that. Bought mine years ago just with mentioning Blazer K5 MY 86, August and got the correct part.
Remove the inner seal: For you want to peplace it anyway, you may destroi is. Just use a crawbar or simmelar to remove the seal.
Wolf

 

[DavidJBlythe]

1984 M1009's used the 6-tooth. 1985+ used the 4-tooth.

 

[top_prop]

1984 M1009's used the 6-tooth. 1985+ used the 4-tooth.

Thanks!

That is what I was looking for!

 

[CROM]

You will destroy the seal when you remove it just like Wolf said. Just buy a new one and be carefull when you install. Don't be shy on getting it out, hammer and chisel/big flat head screwdriver work great.

Side note: There is a spring in that seal that is notorious for finding its way out of the seal and into your bearings...be carefull on the install.

 

[CROM]

Here's what that spring does to bearings. No fun when it happens at 55mph.

 

[doghead]

I use a brass punch and drive the bearing out, forcing the seal out also. Replace the seal and clean/inspect/repack the bearing. The new seal gets "pressed" in(hammer and a block of wood will work fine), or a large socket. Only press it in by its outer edge.