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Huge mistake. I won a GP auction…. Cali FMTV Project “ ‘Merica”

NDT

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I thought your front driveshaft was bent as well? I would highly suggest you look into the u-joint puller tool, these caps can be stupid stuck in the yokes. Wasting hours pounding and cussing is not good use of your time out there.
 

serpico760

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Definitely buy the u-joint tool. And pull both shafts. Just because it's not visibly bent doesn't mean it's still balanced. Some of these weren't well balanced when new.
I would say don't necessarily spend the money on the tool until you try it other ways. Mine came off actually stupid easy and I ended up not even really needing it. I had a standard two jaw puller that was a big one. I put two pieces of pipe around the ends and put those in the yoke holes, and pushed against the shaft and it actually came off easily. The tiger tool u-joint puller I bought turned out I didn't even need that either. Soak the pieces with something like liquid wrench give it some vibration and try it without the fancy tools first it might just work. I had way more difficulty getting the steering rod end off which took me several days of heating and pounding versus the u-joint and yoke which came out in a matter of minutes
 

TOBASH

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I thought your front driveshaft was bent as well? I would highly suggest you look into the u-joint puller tool, these caps can be stupid stuck in the yokes. Wasting hours pounding and cussing is not good use of your time out there.
I would say don't necessarily spend the money on the tool until you try it other ways. Mine came off actually stupid easy and I ended up not even really needing it. I had a standard two jaw puller that was a big one. I put two pieces of pipe around the ends and put those in the yoke holes, and pushed against the shaft and it actually came off easily. The tiger tool u-joint puller I bought turned out I didn't even need that either. Soak the pieces with something like liquid wrench give it some vibration and try it without the fancy tools first it might just work. I had way more difficulty getting the steering rod end off which took me several days of heating and pounding versus the u-joint and yoke which came out in a matter of minutes
All great suggestions and viewpoints.

Many thanks.

What about shock absorber alternatives?
 

GeneralDisorder

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Haven't encountered a bad shock yet that wasn't physically damaged. I'm sure it happens but I've not seen it. I would just source some used replacements. New shocks for our trucks has been a sticking point. There's nothing in the civilian space that really seems to be an easy drop in unless you go into the performance aftermarket and then you are talking $1000 to $1500 or more per wheel plus custom fitment - IE buy a lathe and make the adapters yourself.
 

TOBASH

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Haven't encountered a bad shock yet that wasn't physically damaged. I'm sure it happens but I've not seen it. I would just source some used replacements. New shocks for our trucks has been a sticking point. There's nothing in the civilian space that really seems to be an easy drop in unless you go into the performance aftermarket and then you are talking $1000 to $1500 or more per wheel plus custom fitment - IE buy a lathe and make the adapters yourself.
My rig has a bent shock from a forking forklift at GovPlanet facility.

Same with drive shaft and tie rod
 
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Ronmar

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There is a discussion floating around here about shocks(search feature in LMTV section only), will have to look in my notes for the option I found most likely…

OEM Shocks:

20.94” to 33.26” 12.32” travel
5/8” top, 7/8” bottom (16mm top, 22MM bottom) bolts

the most likley off the shelf I found is a Monroe class7-8 truck shock.

Monroe 65456

20.25” to 32.88” 12.63” travel. So it is ~3/8” shorter overall length than the original(3/8 less full extension), but it has 5/16” more travel, so it is nearly 3/4 shorter when fully compressed… Not a huge difference from OEM…

It uses an L4 mount on each end(monroe documentation shows the specs for the L4 mount end). It is a rubber bushed round welded steel ring, so you will need adapter bushings and spacers to interface with the OEM hardware and mounts. I know of at least one person using them so far…
 

MatthewWBailey

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I’m not afraid to customize. Where can I find the replacement options?
This my effort at replacing mine, based on some older threads

 

Ronmar

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Two threads in there, with pics. Hope it works for you

Edit: Link fixed
When I talked with a rep at Fox, and we started discussing vehicle weight, he said none of their production were appropriate for this much weight.
 

GeneralDisorder

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When I talked with a rep at Fox, and we started discussing vehicle weight, he said none of their production were appropriate for this much weight.
Yep. This is a whole different world. FOX closed their heavy division during COVID and has no desire to get into that business again.

There's basically KING and ICON. Take your pick. The manufacturers that make these for the military like General Kinetics Engineering in Canada aren't interested in our market and are now a division of a larger conglomerate. They made a large percentage of the shocks I have seen on our trucks.
 

Third From Texas

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There is a discussion floating around here about shocks(search feature in LMTV section only), will have to look in my notes for the option I found most likely…

OEM Shocks:

20.94” to 33.26” 12.32” travel
5/8” top, 7/8” bottom (16mm top, 22MM bottom) bolts

the most likley off the shelf I found is a Monroe class7-8 truck shock.

Monroe 65456

20.25” to 32.88” 12.63” travel. So it is ~3/8” shorter overall length than the original(3/8 less full extension), but it has 5/16” more travel, so it is nearly 3/4 shorter when fully compressed… Not a huge difference from OEM…

It uses an L4 mount on each end(monroe documentation shows the specs for the L4 mount end). It is a rubber bushed round welded steel ring, so you will need adapter bushings and spacers to interface with the OEM hardware and mounts. I know of at least one person using them so far…
The Monroes are also 2" diameter shock bodies vs the 3" OEM body, iirc.

Larger dia equates to larger compression/rebound/reserve chambers internally and thus the ability to dampen more weight.

It is a pity that S&S/BAE didn't source a more common industrial shock size.

As a result, you can easily spend $3K per shock from someone like King or ICON (and even then the valving is going to be sketch w/o getting the corner weights of the truck done so the valving can be properly setup). The only good news is the shocks can then be serviced and rebuilt as needed.

:(
 

TOBASH

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The Monroes are also 2" diameter shock bodies vs the 3" OEM body, iirc.

Larger dia equates to larger compression/rebound/reserve chambers internally and thus the ability to dampen more weight.

It is a pity that S&S/BAE didn't source a more common industrial shock size.

As a result, you can easily spend $3K per shock from someone like King or ICON (and even then the valving is going to be sketch w/o getting the corner weights of the truck done so the valving can be properly setup). The only good news is the shocks can then be serviced and rebuilt as needed.

:(
I will go with Monroe 65456 at least for the short run.

I understand the limitations.

There is an axle shoppe that will repair and balance front and rear driveshafts. The place is 15 miles from the truck. Not bad.

I will use 3mm thick cold roll to make the turret cap. Plasma cutter and drill should make quick work of it.

I will go over the fuel pump and filter and the manual pump and then use some batteries to see if she wants to start.
 

MatthewWBailey

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Yep. This is a whole different world. FOX closed their heavy division during COVID and has no desire to get into that business again.

There's basically KING and ICON. Take your pick. The manufacturers that make these for the military like General Kinetics Engineering in Canada aren't interested in our market and are now a division of a larger conglomerate. They made a large percentage of the shocks I have seen on our trucks.
What about doubling up the Monroe's? I know it means adding brackets but just penciling a thought
 

Ronmar

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If I were doubling, i would probably use a lighter weight shock. Its about weight and rate, the monroes for example claim they are for class 7-8 trucks(26-33K and over 33K). by published spec ours are class 6(19-26K) Now IMO it is a grossly overbuilt class 6, but those are the weights...

Now if these shocks were specced for 26-33K+, a pair of them would probably make for a pretty restrictive combined force(make a speed bump feel like hitting a curb), same weight and rate, but now twice the resistance... A pair of lighter weight class shock would give you added valve passage and surface area for heat dissipation without overly restricting the weight trying to move at its normal rate for a given task(like sucking up a speed bump)...

Short of paying a grand plus per shock for something custom for our application, this is where we are.
1. used OEM,s for which we have no spec info on the weights and rates for which they were valved
2. some flavor of truck shocks. if you cross that monroe number you can also find a few other manufacturers with products in that class. I have not had a chance to explore down those paths to see if there is perhaps something better still from one of those other manufacturers.
3. mix and match doubled lighter class(pickup shocks) to find a good rate for our weight. It then becomes a challenge to find shocks with the appropriate length and travel...
4. custom built $$$$$.

Aren't LMTV's fun:)
 
Last edited:

MatthewWBailey

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If I were doubling, i would probably use a lighter weight shock. Its about weight and rate, the monroes for example claim they are for class 7-8 trucks(26-33K and over 33K). by published spec ours are class 6(19-26K) Now IMO it is a grossly overbuilt class 6, but those are the weights...

Now if these shocks were specced for 26-33K+, a pair of them would probably make for a pretty restrictive combined force(make a speed bump feel like hitting a curb), same weight and rate, but now twice the resistance... A pair of lighter weight class shock would give you added valve passage and surface area for heat dissipation without overly restricting the weight trying to move at its normal rate for a given task(like sucking up a speed bump)...

Short of paying a grand plus per shock for something custom for our application, this is where we are.
1. used OEM,s for which we have no spec info on the weights and rates for which they were valved
2. some flavor of truck shocks. if you cross that monroe number you can also find a few other manufacturers with products in that class. I have not had a chance to explore down those paths to see if there is perhaps something better still from one of those other manufacturers.
3. mix and match doubled lighter class(pickup shocks) to find a good rate for our weight. It then becomes a challenge to find shocks with the appropriate length and travel...
4. custom built $$$$$.

Aren't LMTV's fun:)
I'm not feeling anny issues at present with mine. So there's that. I'm more concerned with an out of round tire that needs replacing.
 
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