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Humvee bodyswap to civi truck frames

Mogman

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I was kind of surprised when that guy complained about lack of stability.
The closest thing I have owned to compare the DuraVee to was a Triumph GT-6 I had in high school, damn DuraVee corners as flat as a pancake but when it starts to get away from you it's allot of work to stay out of the fences.
You want the half shafts to be the weakest link, by far the easiest to replace, I have not heard of anyone breaking the hubs or diffs, failure yes but not breaking a healthy one, not saying it has not happened....
 

RPMRPM

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I was kind of surprised when that guy complained about lack of stability.
The closest thing I have owned to compare the DuraVee to was a Triumph GT-6 I had in high school, damn DuraVee corners as flat as a pancake but when it starts to get away from you it's allot of work to stay out of the fences.
You want the half shafts to be the weakest link, by far the easiest to replace, I have not heard of anyone breaking the hubs or diffs, failure yes but not breaking a healthy one, not saying it has not happened....
Ok, so I probbably shouldn’t go to 12k’s then I should stick with 10’s you know where I can get 10’s from? and yeah I agree they’re awesome handling wise especially in AWD it’s awesome, especially considering what it is it feels scary off-roading it on some aggressive rocks because I’m so used to live axle not independent suspension like the humvee but once you get used to it it doesn't bother me anymore
 

Mogman

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If you have a stock HMMWV then the cheap Chinese half shafts are one option, if you have a re-powered HMMWV then the factory half shafts are pretty much mandatory simply because you can go fast enough to rip the boots off due to centrifugal force with the softer Chicom boots.
I just replaced the last of the original 7K shafts on the DuraVee, with 13K on the re-power and 19K total and 30 years.

IMHO the best option is to get good used 10K shafts or NOS shafts with cut boots (Beltfed on Fleabay often has them) and rebuild any of those with factory boots.
EDIT, or just buy new shafts from AMG or one of the reputable dealers that sell only factory parts..

I did have a couple Chicom shafts fail right away due to quality issues with the boots, they ripped right down the mold seam, but of course they were warrantied for life so I got them replaced no problem other than the inconvenience, I have not had any that did not fail the first week fail any other time but for when I pushed the DuraVee into triple or near triple digit speeds and no failures on any of the other "stock" tucks I put them on.

I was however not able to "break" the Chicom shafts on the DuraVee, just rip the boots off, but I don't have 700HP ether :cry:
 
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Mogman

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There are allot of folks trying to pass off aftermarket shafts as factory shafts, one of them likes to use the work TACOM in all of his sales.
 

Mogman

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The good thing about having the 10K VS the 12K half shafts is IF you have one go out for any reason while on the road you can usually get a Chicom one in 1 day from Autozone, or 3 from Summit racing.
You should carry one of the outer stubs from one of your 7K shafts and shorter bolts for the brake hub so you can limp around on one axle while you wait.
 

RPMRPM

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The good thing about having the 10K VS the 12K half shafts is IF you have one go out for any reason while on the road you can usually get a Chicom one in 1 day from Autozone, or 3 from Summit racing.
You should carry one of the outer stubs from one of your 7K shafts and shorter bolts for the brake hub so you can limp around on one axle while you wait.
How do you tell the difference between 7’s and 10’s is there a list of part numbers or models they were on?
 

RPMRPM

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The good thing about having the 10K VS the 12K half shafts is IF you have one go out for any reason while on the road you can usually get a Chicom one in 1 day from Autozone, or 3 from Summit racing.
You should carry one of the outer stubs from one of your 7K shafts and shorter bolts for the brake hub so you can limp around on one axle while you wait.
It’s a M998 if that tells you what shafts they are
 

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Mogman

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IIRC you can measure the shaft dia. interesting though I thought those shields on the steering arms were only on the 12K hubs, snap a couple pics of the plunge (inside) of the shafts.
 

aghumvee

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This is one of our humvees on a 2001 Dodge 2500 frame. Body does fit between the frame rails with some of the aluminum supports removed. Front steering box sticks out but we hid it with a winch bumper. Rear leaf springs fit thru rear seat box and stick past tub a little bit.
 

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Mogman

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This is one of our humvees on a 2001 Dodge 2500 frame. Body does fit between the frame rails with some of the aluminum supports removed. Front steering box sticks out but we hid it with a winch bumper. Rear leaf springs fit thru rear seat box and stick past tub a little bit.
MORE pictures, please!!
 
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