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Hurricane Helena LMTV Flooded

TylerEMS

New member
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9
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Location
Brevard, NC
So I just drained the transmission in both places, and about a quart or less of water came out of the transmission "box" or pan, and the other drain was all good, although I drained all 10 gallons or so out of them. Hopefully that little bit of water won't mess it up too bad. I did get a whole quart of water out of the engine oil though, bit hopefully it will be OK... I will be replacing all the filters and fluids on Monday, just giving everything a chance to drip and dry out for a day or 2... Thank you for the info! I didn't realize about the bonding material on the friction plates.
 

TylerEMS

New member
11
9
3
Location
Brevard, NC
Lets take it step by step to the major decision making points for determining if the vehicle is worth the re-investment. I broke it down into 4 sections to help you put minimal time and money into the machine.

Disconnect batteries
Drain all fluids and I mean ALL fluids.
Open turbo intake and exhaust, and other systems to let water dissipate. If in doubt open a line and inspect contents. **Check weather before opening anything**
Attempt to rotate engine by hand to ensure no hydro lock. If hydro lock - STOP! Reassess engine for water intrusion. No hydro-lick - proceed.

Start tracing from the batteries looking for corrosion. Tend to it as discovered.
Install batteries and ohm out systems as needed.
Check for electrical power to systems and if computers are "happy" - DO NOT CRANK ENGINE!
If no power to systems then evaluate for potential cost of repairs vs value of vehicle.

Fill with the intent to flush transmission/transfer case and engine with 10w. **Best to do so after old fluids have stopped dripping into catch pan.**
If you feel the need to use an alternate fuel container for testing then do it.
Assess to see if it starts, runs, then transmission engages in gear. - If major electrical problems persist then put a 12v wire on the injection pump shut off solenoid from the battery and jump the starter at the starter relay (right of the power steering reservoir facing the engine - 2 larger threaded posts covered in silicone). If engine runs - continue electrical evaluation. If engine does not run - investigate lack of fuel prime, fluid contamination, or internal mechanical damage from water intrusion.

From there you'll be disconnecting brake lines to remove trapped moisture and moving on to electrical sub system tests that could go on for ages.. or not! 🤞
Hey fuzzytoaster, thanks for the info. All the fluids have been drained. Now, should I try and hand turn the engine BEFORE adding in any engine oil? Also, how do you hand crank these engines? Same as a car? Thanks in advance!
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Location
Port angeles wa
With that amount of water out of the main drain, and it never being run in that condition, you will probably be fine as it want straight to the sump and pushed oil up. I doubt it ever came in any significant contact with the friction material.

The main housing fills before oil gets high enough in the case to flow out the output shaft housing and down into the transfer case. The scavenger pump pumps oil back from the transfer tot he main housing so oil is continously circulated from the transfer back to the main housing when running. not finding any water in the transfer case confirms your contamination wasn't widespread.

You bar/jack the engine over by hand using a socket and breaker bar on the alternator pulley nut.

IMG_4013.jpeg
 

fuzzytoaster

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Hey fuzzytoaster, thanks for the info. All the fluids have been drained. Now, should I try and hand turn the engine BEFORE adding in any engine oil? Also, how do you hand crank these engines? Same as a car? Thanks in advance!
Ronmar is correct below in how to rotate it by hand. Turning the engine by hand without lubricant won't hurt it. If the steps in the TM result in the belt slipping you can remove the alternator and use the teeth on the flywheel to get rotation but that's obviously more intensive to to get to that point.
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Mesa Colorado
Ronmar is correct below in how to rotate it by hand. Turning the engine by hand without lubricant won't hurt it. If the steps in the TM result in the belt slipping you can remove the alternator and use the teeth on the flywheel to get rotation but that's obviously more intensive to to get to that point.
When re- tightening my TC bolts, I could not get the alternator pulley nut method to work. So I just used a chain-grips around the boss behind the crank balancer on front. Worked easy.
 

TylerEMS

New member
11
9
3
Location
Brevard, NC
With that amount of water out of the main drain, and it never being run in that condition, you will probably be fine as it want straight to the sump and pushed oil up. I doubt it ever came in any significant contact with the friction material.

The main housing fills before oil gets high enough in the case to flow out the output shaft housing and down into the transfer case. The scavenger pump pumps oil back from the transfer tot he main housing so oil is continously circulated from the transfer back to the main housing when running. not finding any water in the transfer case confirms your contamination wasn't widespread.

You bar/jack the engine over by hand using a socket and breaker bar on the alternator pulley nut.

View attachment 933821
Thank you, that was what I was looking for! Clockwise from the Alternator... And I have the tools to do it I believe.
 
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