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Hydraulic Head Rebuild

biscuitwhistler37

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Before you go all MacGyver heroic on it
You know me too well 😆. The leak looks to be the lines coming out of the top seen in the pic, I don't know what Viton O-rings are yet, but if they're the ones that stop fuel from pooling in the fittings, they're what failed. Hopefully I'll get some time tomorrow to dedicate to it. Appreciate the advice
 

cattlerepairman

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It could be the lines/fittings. Taking them off, gently cleaning the "mushrooms" with emery cloth, cleaning the seats and replacing/retorquing the lines is a good step one. The lines are torqued to 25 ft lbs max. The center plug could also be leaking, giving the impression of line leaks. Removal/cleaning/retorquing is also step one. I think it is 48 ft lbs but look it up. A fix that has worked for many is the addition of a copper crush washer under the hex plug. There is an aluminium cover with the line numbers over top of the HH, so you cannot readily see the top surface that might have a crack. Cover needs to come off (you do not really need it; take a pic).
If you truly have a cracked HH, then there is no good fix. You need a replacement.
 
Last edited:

biscuitwhistler37

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It could be the lines/fittings. Taking them off, gently cleaning the "mushrooms" with emery cloth, cleaning the seats and replacing/retorquing the lines is a good step one. The lines are torqued to 25 ft lbs max. The center plug could also be leaking, giving the impression of line leaks. Removal/cleaning/retorquing is also step one. I think it is 48 ft lbs but look it up. A fix that has worked for many is the addition of a copper crush washer under the hex plug. There is an aluminium cover with the line numbers over top of the HH, so you cannot readily see the top surface that might have a crack. Cover needs to come off (you do not really need it; take a pic).
If you truly have a cracked HH, then there is no good fix. You need a replacement.
Thanks for the info! I'm really hoping it's just improper line seating, seems like the truck runs too well to be a serious problem. I'll definitely get pics up when progress starts.
 

NY Tom

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The truck will run pretty good with a leak from a crack. Take a good look at #3 after you get it cleaned up. Seems to be a common failure point.

As mentioned above, if it leaks around the fitting it is usually a crack and it cannot be repaired.

The viton seals go under the head itself. If it leaks from the base this would be the problem. There are 2 or 3 O-Rings in there. If the inner one fails it leaks fuel to the engine oil. Outer one leaks externally.
 

biscuitwhistler37

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The truck will run pretty good with a leak from a crack. Take a good look at #3 after you get it cleaned up. Seems to be a common failure point.

As mentioned above, if it leaks around the fitting it is usually a crack and it cannot be repaired.

The viton seals go under the head itself. If it leaks from the base this would be the problem. There are 2 or 3 O-Rings in there. If the inner one fails it leaks fuel to the engine oil. Outer one leaks externally.
Fantastic!! Thank you for the additional advice, it seems to only leak where the lines actually plug into the top, I checked the crankcase oil and it is free from fuel. The green in the attached pic is an attempt to show where the pooling is, I'm hoping like cattlerepairman said, it's a line/fitting/seating issue.
I only "painted" the four lines but it pools in all 6.

20240214_140824~2.jpg
 

cattlerepairman

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Might be wrong to ask in the thread, but where are we at with replacement injector lines? Still available from the usual suspects or better off going to a Diesel injection shop and have them made?
It seems that, although the steel ferrules are available, generally the success rate of cutting half an inch off the lines and re-ferruling them is akin to a coin toss.
 

NY Tom

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Might be wrong to ask in the thread, but where are we at with replacement injector lines? Still available from the usual suspects or better off going to a Diesel injection shop and have them made?
It seems that, although the steel ferrules are available, generally the success rate of cutting half an inch off the lines and re-ferruling them is akin to a coin toss.
My experience a couple years back you are better off with a good used take-off. Bought one NOS from TNJ Murray and it did not fit. Was close but just not quite right. TNJ swapped me out for a good used take-off which worked.

Of course long term this is not a viable solution...so it's a valid question.
 

biscuitwhistler37

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25 ftlbs you say? No. These are so tight the words "cheater bar" and "fuel lines" were used in the same sentence...... Still aren't off. At least the leak has more than likely been traced, now I just hope everything comes off without breaking and the head isn't cracked. Appreciate the help
 
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