I bought a "Not operationally checked" MEP-803A what can I expect?

[Zed254]

I think I see a rear stabilizing leg in pic 3. Pic 15 shows missing side panel bolts, so some 'work' was done inside. Good that all gauges are still installed. Hydraulic brake fluid is gone because of no cap on reservoir (thirty-eight). Both batteries are present (29,30), so that's a bonus - you may be able to bring them back to life. Missing bolt near fuel tank (44). Does anyone know what all of those straps were used for?

 

[rtrask]

You need to be particularly careful with this set, the landing gear is missing from the front. Also I don't see a rear stabilizing leg... which in this case, is VERY important as the genset is turned around 180* from normal. The consideration of safety here is key, because the weight on these gensets is biased TOWARDS the operator controls, so you are rear leaning heavy right now.

Best thing you can do is let the yard operator help hook this to your vehicle before you sign any paperwork (in case it tips and gets damaged in loading).

You will need to determine how you will stabilize this trailer before unhooking it (unless you are taking the genset off... then do so before unhooking the trailer).

Thanks for the tip Light. I did not catch that it was on backward. The strap holding it down did seam a little strange to me. I had thought about using my handyman jack to get the tongue up, but it is probably better to get GP to help me get it on the hitch. I think I will throw in a pair of come-alongs to pull it forward a bit to get a better balance on the load. I have a few 6' railroad ties that I will put fore and aft before I disconnect from the trailer. At some point I will pour a slab of cement, and possibly build a shed around it, but for now I intend to leave it on the trailer.

 

[Zed254]

Pic 8 and 13 show that generator is bolted to trailer. But that strap does look funky.

 

[rtrask]

Sorry I got a little off topic on some of my earlier posts, I have edited that stuff out now. I will be happy to send what I posted if you are interested. just PM me.

I have no idea what all the straps are from. but they do not seem to be present on any of the other genset's that I have seen. I suspect the trailer was re-purposed and either the generator was put back on the trailer, or it was never on that trailer. The missing tool chest and the generator being put on backward kind of support that hypothesis.

Can anyone tell me what gauge of wire I should use to ground the generator?

 

[rtrask]

I think I see a rear stabilizing leg in pic 3. Pic 15 shows missing side panel bolts, so some 'work' was done inside. Good that all gauges are still installed. Hydraulic brake fluid is gone because of no cap on reservoir (thirty-eight). Both batteries are present (29,30), so that's a bonus - you may be able to bring them back to life. Missing bolt near fuel tank (44). Does anyone know what all of those straps were used for?

If I dig a little on the trailer forum I can probably get an answer, but does anyone know what kind of brake fluid they use in these trailers? is it silicone dot 5 like in the SEE, or regular dot 3/4?

I don't intend to be burning up the track to get it to the land, but it might not be a bad idea to get the surge brakes going again. I am not sure how you would bleed those breaks, just gravity?

 

[Zed254]

Can anyone tell me what gauge of wire I should use to ground the generator?

I use 6 AWG. Here's a link to the ground rod kit that contains a short section of wire: https://www.parttarget.com/5975-00-...choption=nsn&originalsearchtext=5975008783791

 

[Zed254]

but does anyone know what kind of brake fluid they use in these trailers? is it silicone dot 5 like in the SEE, or regular dot 3/4?

My 2006 M1101 Hyd Fluid cap calls for DOT 3/4. I would do some checking in the TM before I believed it, though.

 

[rtrask]

My 2006 M1101 Hyd Fluid cap calls for DOT 3/4. I would do some checking in the TM before I believed it, though.

Thanks, after a quick search on the trailer thread it looks like DOT 5, probably I will just have to see what is in it. You don't want to mix DOT 5 with anything else. Of course since the cap is off I probably need to figure out a way to flush the lines.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Oh man, don't post any more pictures of Colorado. Your making me homesick. I lived in Colorado for 20 great years in "Republic of Boulder". Although I did manage to escape to reality from time-to-time in other parts of Colorado.

The pictures of your genset/trailer look good. Hopefully its a runner!

 

[jamawieb]

Looks like a good unit. Just be ready to change the returns lines. If its going to be your primary or back up unit, you need to change them because they will leak. Just put fluids in, use the dead crank to move oil around and then start.

 

[Coug]

As fr as I know, DOT 5 is the military standard to use in every vehicle/trailer that takes brake fluid, primarily due to moisture absorption by DOT 3/4.

 

[Zed254]

Thanks, after a quick search on the trailer thread it looks like DOT 5, probably I will just have to see what is in it. You don't want to mix DOT 5 with anything else. Of course since the cap is off I probably need to figure out a way to flush the lines.

From TM 9-2330-392-14&P: Brake fluid is NSN 9150-01-102-9455 - I believe you are correct.....DOT 5. Interesting that my M1101 reservoir cover has DOT 3/4 on it. My 2011 M116A3 calls for DOT 5.

https://www.parttarget.com/9150-01-102-9455_9150011029455_MIL-B-46176.html/-3ea54beb-1539-4d51-9f76-3333a7db79de?searchtext=011029455&searchoption=nsn&originalsearchtext=9150-01-102-9455

 

[Coug]

From TM 9-2330-392-14&P: Brake fluid is NSN 9150-01-102-9455 - I believe you are correct.....DOT 5. Interesting that my M1101 reservoir cover has DOT 3/4 on it. My 2011 M116A3 calls for DOT 5.

https://www.parttarget.com/9150-01-102-9455_9150011029455_MIL-B-46176.html/-3ea54beb-1539-4d51-9f76-3333a7db79de?searchtext=011029455&searchoption=nsn&originalsearchtext=9150-01-102-9455

The trailer was built using a lot of off the shelf civilian components, rather than anything specifically military in nature. That probably included not having them make a special stamp for the brake fluid type on the cap.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
The trailer itself is a LTT-TQG trailer (M1102 type)
M1101, M1102, LTT-TQG Surge brake assembly
Military part to civilian counterpart model Titan/Dico Model 6 hydraulic brake actuator.
All the parts for repairing and fixing.
cylinder, cap, breakaway,, shock, spring clip etc..

Recovery;
Bring some trailer lights, and zip ties. The trailer is all aluminum.

Any newer Light Tactical Trailer
M1101 / M1102 / LTT-TQG / LTT-Heavy / LTT-Flatdeck / LTT-Cargo
based on HMMWV 37 X 12.50R 16.5LT Rims and Tires

With the trailer itself being perfectly level. The lunette ring height is almost 25.5 inches from the ground
View attachment 617298View attachment 617299

Hook-ups to your towing vehicle will vary.
1998 Dodge 2500 with slightly larger than stock tires and a adjustable receiver tube flipped over to make it a riser.

Sets the saddle height around 23.75 inches high.
View attachment 617301View attachment 617304View attachment 617305View attachment 617307

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Recovery,
Watch the hub temps, get the tires aired up. If you see 17psi painted above the tire, it means they have run flat assemblies, anyway, pump it to 35psi to travel down the road nicely.
Bring extra links to ensure you can attach the safety chains, some hitch receiver mounts make the chains seem maybe 2 inches to short.

How far of a distance for recovery?

 

[Light in the Dark]

The castle nut on each hub is 1.5", so won't hurt to bring a 1.5" socket and a long 1/2" breaker in case you need to loosen or tighten while going down the road based on hub temps like Mike mentioned above). And absolutely bring some extra quick links as the tow chains are sized to a hmmwv, not to a civilian truck... a bit too short. As big as you can find and will mount to your trucks hitch: https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-H...8-in-Quick-Link-in-Stainless-Steel/1002234848

 

[Guyfang]

If you REALLY want to know what the straps are for, and its immaterial now, but if you just have to know, you need to look at ALL the data plates. There are three data plates on your PU set. One is for the trailer. One is for the PU, (Power Unit) and the last is on the gen set. On the PU data plate will be a TM referenced. It should give you the info concerning the PU add ons, to the trailer. The straps just hold different pieces of equipment needed for the operation of the PU. When you pull up and park, all the crap you need, from sledge hammer to ground rods, to ground wire to trailer crank handle to what ever, are strapped/ housed in a tool box, ready for you to rock. That way you do not have to go looking all over Gods green earth to be up and running.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Thanks for the tip Light. I did not catch that it was on backward. The strap holding it down did seam a little strange to me. I had thought about using my handyman jack to get the tongue up, but it is probably better to get GP to help me get it on the hitch. I think I will throw in a pair of come-alongs to pull it forward a bit to get a better balance on the load. I have a few 6' railroad ties that I will put fore and aft before I disconnect from the trailer. At some point I will pour a slab of cement, and possibly build a shed around it, but for now I intend to leave it on the trailer.

If the rear stabilizer leg is there, be sure to deploy it before you or GP touches the trailer. Much easier to simply raise it back up after you are locked on the pintle, versus having a trailer pointed nose to the north star (and hopefully no one underneath it).

 

[Guyfang]

You bet cha! And it happens faster then a speeding bullit. Once saw a fella catapolted off a PP, (Power Plant) set, when he removed the front gen set. He was standing on the front of the trailer, when someone else drove off. The weight of the rear gen set, with no rear landing leg deployed, was all it took. Funny now, but wasn't then.

 

[rtrask]

If you REALLY want to know what the straps are for, and its immaterial now, but if you just have to know, you need to look at ALL the data plates. There are three data plates on your PU set. One is for the trailer. One is for the PU, (Power Unit) and the last is on the gen set. On the PU data plate will be a TM referenced. It should give you the info concerning the PU add ons, to the trailer. The straps just hold different pieces of equipment needed for the operation of the PU. When you pull up and park, all the crap you need, from sledge hammer to ground rods, to ground wire to trailer crank handle to what ever, are strapped/ housed in a tool box, ready for you to rock. That way you do not have to go looking all over Gods green earth to be up and running.

The one I bought does not have the tool box, and the genset is on backwards. That is why I think that either the original purpose of the trailer was not for a generator, or the generator was pulled off, the trailer used for something else and the genset put back on sans tool box plus all the additional straps. I have found the proper TM for the trailer I have, which is slightly different than what you posted for the MEP-803A in the TM section. (thanks for that!) I have attached the correct TM which matches the NSN number on my trailer. I have been looking at a number of these 803A gensets, and have seen at least 3 different makes that were used. (M116A3, PU-798, and "M1101 family" Chassis) mine is the Chassis. Most of the ones that are currently up for auction are the M116A trailers. The ones with the Chassis style are all currently located in Germany.