I bought one!

[stumps]

Friction Welding, Its a pretty neat idea. I have heard of pistons and skirts being put together like this. I have never seen the process though

Dave

Friction welding works very nicely, but the weld metals turn bright yellow hot. I doubt the spindle and bearing hub got that hot. Usually they get just hot enough to gall the heck out of the most expensive part.

-Chuck

 

[Capt.Marion]

The triangle tag is for a MWO (Maintenance Work Order; read: a system-wide upgrade applied by motorpool) unless I'm mistaken.

You can see when your engine was rebuilt by looking at the engine ID plate on the passenger side of the block, located directly above the starter. You'll have to lower the access panel on that side to get a good look at it.

 

[zout]

Wreckerman was dead on - also in the "business". Get a good look at the bearing surface on the spindle and emery paper smooth - test with another bearing and make sure the bearing is not loose on the spindle.

Do not pour water - oil or anything on the spindle after heating the dead race off - let it cool down by itself.

Sometimes the spindle surface is not damaged - sometimes it is. Got to get it off and then check it out.

Have used electric frying pans with oil in them to cook gears off - keeps the hardness in the gear but heats them up so they fall right off.

When spindles are too bad - on civilian equip axle surgeons company is called to cut and reweld on new spindles.

 

[AtomicHillbilly]

Assuming I do just replace the spindle (plan for now), do I even need to take the brake shoes off? It looks like I should be able to just unbolt the 10 or so bolts holding the brake backing plate on and prop the whole brake assy up out of the way. As soon as I get her home one of the first orders of business will be to go completely through the brake system. I love speed, but it's also nice to be able to stop occasionally. What manual covers this kind of maintenance? The TM I downloaded is just the operator's manual. I can search if someone gives me the correct manual number.

Also- one thing I thought I noticed was brush strokes in the body paint. Are the vehicles originally painted by brush, or is that a field 'upgrade'?

 

[doghead]

These are listed in the Deuce forum at the top of the page, in the FAQ sticky.


Technical Manuals

LO 9-2320-209-12-1 Lube order for the m35 series
LO 9-2320-386-12 M35 Lubrication Order

TB 9-4910-492-30Hoist unit mount in m34 or m35
TB 43-0209 Military camouflage painting
TM 9-2320-209-10-1 M35reference data.
TM 9-2320-209-10-1-HR List issue items m44a1 and m44a2
TM 9-2320-209-10-2 M35 preventive maintenance checks and services
Tm 9-2320-209-10-3 M35 general troubleshooting
TM 9-2320-209-10-4 M35 operator's maintenance program
TM 9-2320-209-20-2-1 M35 trouble shooting volume 2 section 1
Tm 9-2320-209-20-2-2 M35 trouble shooting volume 2 section 2
TM 9-2320-209-20-3-1 Organizational level maintenance, volume 1 section 1 (chapters 1 - 12)
Tm 9-2320-209-20-3-2 Organizational level maintenance, volume 1 section 2(chapters 13 - 17)
Tm 9-2320-209-20-3-3 Organizational level maintenance, volume 1 section 3 (chapter 18
Tm 9-2320-209-20-3-4 Organizational level maintenance, volume 1 section 4 (chapters 19 - 23)
Tm 9-2320-209-20p Organizational level maintenance parts / tools
TM 9-2520-246-34 M35 direct / general support maintenance for transmissions
TM 9-2520-246-34-1 Maintenance direct and general support transmissions
Tm 9-2520-246-34p M-35 direct / general support maintenance parts, tools for transmissions
Tm 9-2815-204-34pM-35 Depot / Direct / General Support Maintenance Parts Tools of Engine

 

[bigmike]

Cut it opposite your first cut, and put a cold chisel in the cut and give it a whack. A small cut in the spindle isn't going to harm the new bearing hub one bit. After you get the old bearing hub off, look carefully to see if it galled up the spindle. If it did, you maybe able to clean up the spindle with a fine mill file enough to fit a new race.



I agree with above. you have nothing to loose by finishing the cut. a couple of small grooves won't hurt a new bearing's inner race.

 

[AtomicHillbilly]

Can someone tell me the NAPA part number for the wheel bearing socket? I know its 8 point, 3", and I know I've seen the number in a post somewhere. For the life of me, I can't seem to find that post. Is this socket one they carry in regular stores?

~J

 

[doghead]

Do an advanced search, in the Deuce forum, search for spindle nut socket. Ther are a bunch of threads with brands and numbers.

Some stores stock them, some don't.

 

[Capt.Marion]

OTC1907

as per http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/47369-need-3-8-sided-socket.html

 

[Recovry4x4]

Assuming I do just replace the spindle (plan for now), do I even need to take the brake shoes off? It looks like I should be able to just unbolt the 10 or so bolts holding the brake backing plate on and prop the whole brake assy up out of the way. As soon as I get her home one of the first orders of business will be to go completely through the brake system. I love speed, but it's also nice to be able to stop occasionally. What manual covers this kind of maintenance? The TM I downloaded is just the operator's manual. I can search if someone gives me the correct manual number.

Also- one thing I thought I noticed was brush strokes in the body paint. Are the vehicles originally painted by brush, or is that a field 'upgrade'?

Re-read post 12, I covered that!

 

[WillWagner]

Yeah, don't even mess with trying to reuse the spindle or the hub. It will not be worth the damage you could do to yourself, others around you or the hobby in general. Just replace the thing. While you are there, rebuild/replace the wheel cylinder, just to be on the safe side...it got REAL hot there! If it were me, i'd do everything from the boot out while it is down. I'd also pull the drive cap on the other side , check the grease...to see if there is any there, maybe that's why this side failed? And check the adjustment. 3 hrs away in your civi vehicle is 4 to 5 in the deuce. That's a bunch of seat time and a long way. Do it right while you are there. If you take a chance reusing parts that shouldn't be used, have a mishap and someone gets hurt or worse, how would you feel? Not only that, this hobby is kinda under the microscope now. The more serious issues we have the more it brings us into the focus of people who want to have these vehicles off the road.

Rant off

 

[AtomicHillbilly]

Ok- I'm trying to put together a parts list for what I need to take back down for the truck recovery sometime in the near future. This is a quick and dirty- get me home quickly and safely so I can do it right list. I am having to work outside under a pine tree. Even electricity is hard to come by where the truck is parked without a generator.

1. Spindle
2. Brake hose (just in case- don't plan to replace it unless absolutely necessary at this time)
3. Bearings/seals. The seller has these on hand from where he was going to do the fix himself. Question- I was reviewing the manual and it says there is a 'wheel bearing cup' to install. Does this normally come with the bearing kits? If not, I probably need to order one as I am sure the old one is probably toast. I don't remember a separate cup assembly on my old Jeep.
4. Wheel bearing nut socket- is this absolutely necessary? I have used the hammer and chisel method of tightening wheel bearing lock nuts in the past and it seemed to work fine. I don't have a 3/4" torque wrench yet anyway, so even if I buy the proper socket I won't be able to set the torque on the locknut. This is a quick and dirty shadetree job remember.
5. brake fluid just in case

Anything else?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Grease is a must. Buy new races too, guarantee the other ones are FUBAR. You can get by with a hammer and chisel but the socket does make an easier job. Take a tube of sliicone sealant for the drive flange as well. You made no mention of tools, got that all covered?