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I have a noisy M35A2.

Bill in pa

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homer city pa
When driving. It's very noisy. More so than normal.
Very chattery, rattling . As soon as I depress the clutch pedal all the noise foes away?
I've been told throw out bearing.
Front transmission bearing.
Jack shaft loose or bad u joints.
Rear drive shaft out of balance.
All that said where do I start?
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
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When driving. It's very noisy. More so than normal.
Very chattery, rattling . As soon as I depress the clutch pedal all the noise foes away?
I've been told throw out bearing.
Front transmission bearing.
Jack shaft loose or bad u joints.
Rear drive shaft out of balance.
All that said where do I start?
...by putting a 3/4" wrench in each hand and getting under the truck :)
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
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mid- michigan
When driving. It's very noisy. More so than normal.
Very chattery, rattling . As soon as I depress the clutch pedal all the noise foes away?
I've been told throw out bearing.
Front transmission bearing.
Jack shaft loose or bad u joints.
Rear drive shaft out of balance.
All that said where do I start?
Does the noise stop when you depress the clutch pedal without moving ?
If yes you can eliminate these from the first test
Jack shaft loose or bad u joints.
Rear drive shaft out of balance.


So pull the inspection cover on the bell housing and see what is going on . I'm leaning towards throw out bearning
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
18
Location
homer city pa
When driving. It's very noisy. More so than normal.
Very chattery, rattling . As soon as I depress the clutch pedal all the noise foes away?
I've been told throw out bearing.
Front transmission bearing.
Jack shaft loose or bad u joints.
Rear drive shaft out of balance.
All that said where do I start?
So I put truck in neutral.
Got up to 2300rpms smooth and quiet,with clutch in and out.
Now put it in 5th gear with transfer case in neutral. Got it up to 2300 rpms quiet as can be. So that all said...
I'm thinking rear drive shaft out of balance.
Gets worse at higher speed/ rpms.
Gets smooth and quieter as I ease off the fuel.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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Have you maintained all of the driveline from Throwout bearing to the rear axles?
Do all grease fittings take grease? Notice any dry rust on any of the universal joints?
Is everything tight, Especially the bolts on the short driveshaft between the transmission and transfer case?
How long has it been doing this?
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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40
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Location
homer city pa
Have you maintained all of the driveline from Throwout bearing to the rear axles?
Do all grease fittings take grease? Notice any dry rust on any of the universal joints?
Is everything tight, Especially the bolts on the short driveshaft between the transmission and transfer case?
How long has it been doing this?
All the rear drive line is new.
I have no rusty u joints. All bolts are tight. No play in any joints. I'm leaning towards the rear drive shaft out of balance. More fuel more noise. As I ease off the fuel noise level drops. Feels much smoother. Next I'm taking rear drive shaft out, put transmission in 5th, transfer case in high. See what it does. If quiet and smooth has to be drive shaft or one of the rear axles
 

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dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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London England
Have you checked the gearbox?
At a standstill nothing else is rotating.
So you dip the clutch the noise goes away....Now even the gearbox is not rotating..
I would take the lid off the gearbox top and have a listen, transfer case in neutral trying different gears,
Could be an (Easier) starting point.
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
homer city pa
Have you checked the gearbox?
At a standstill nothing else is rotating.
So you dip the clutch the noise goes away....Now even the gearbox is not rotating..
I would take the lid off the gearbox top and have a listen, transfer case in neutral trying different gears,
Could be an (Easier) starting point.
I put the transfer case in neutral. Transmission in 5th let the clutch out.
Up to 2300rpms smooth n quiet so can't be the transmission
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Are your average Prius owners buying this stuff now? I assume M352 SHOULD be M35A2?
Maybe if you started things half way correct, stated what you have tried, did, did not work, I wouldn't need to get involved. Thumbs up to Eric for taking the high road.
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
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Denver, Colorado
Maybe if you started things half way correct, stated what you have tried, did, did not work, I wouldn't need to get involved. Thumbs up to Eric for taking the high road.
Yep. Just being honest... OP might be the most savvy mechanic on earth, but when someone posts for help with an issue, stating specifics such as they've been told it could be a loose jackshaft, u-joint or driveshaft, but they haven't even looked under the truck to eliminate those simply identified problems before hitting the keypad, makes me wonder if they actually need/or can be, helped.
 
Last edited:

MG2936

Member
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60
18
Location
Lapeer, Michigan
Yep. Just being honest... OP might be the most savvy mechanic on earth, but when someone posts for help with an issue, stating specifics such as they've been told it could be a loose jackshaft, u-joint or driveshaft, but they haven't even looked under the truck to eliminate those simply identified problems before hitting the keypad, makes me wonder if they actually need/or can be, helped.
One of the Forum rules is "Do not post unfriendly or insulting comments or replies to other members." I'm surprised the moderators let it go this far. If you don't like a posting...ignore it. I have seen some postings which I thought were really unnecessary and guess what???? nobody answered the post. I'm sure he got the message. Probably more effective than a nasty remark.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Pull the floor and do all those PM's that never got done,
All those zerks that have no attention.
|We know that you almost completely rebuilt/extended/renewed/made pretty/fixed that truck and what you are doing to find your vibration problem sounds sound.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
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Location
Mesa, AZ
A 5ton has grease cups on the clutch crossover shaft unlike a deuce which uses zerks. Pilot bearing ? nobody has suggested that yet.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
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636
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Reference post 15: disregard reference to 5 ton. Zerks on crossover shaft may be an issue if they have been neglected long enough and bushing are worn to point that crossover shaft wobbles but that might not be the source of the noise noted.
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
homer city pa
Let me start by saying it's a 1987 M35A2C..
Again I checked all the fluids.
Greased all the drive line.
Went for a ride.
Very rattely in 3rd and 5th under a load.
Drop to 4 and put it under load and no more rattle?
Synchronizer bad?
Is there something 3/5 share .and not 4?
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
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Denver, Colorado
IIRC, 4th gear is machined directly onto the back end of the input shaft, which is separate from the mainshaft. 3rd and 5th gear sit right next to each other on the mainshaft. 3rd and 5th, as a pair, are held in place by a single snap ring on the mainshaft. If the snap ring broke, maybe it could cause some carnage, as 3rd and 5th gears might slide free-willy forward and backward on the mainshaft. What this may do is allow the 3rd and 5th mainshaft gears to chew into their adjacent countershaft gears. The sliding of 3 & 5 on the mainshaft could also possilbly allow the 4-5 synchro to get "pinched" between 4th and 5th gear when 3rd gear is engaged. 4th and 5th gear would be rotating at different speeds, placing alot of stress on the synchro pinched in between the two. Also, 3rd gear rides directly on the mainshaft, but 5th gear spins on a sleeve. The 5th gear sleeve is held stationary to the mainshaft via a pin, which locates onto the 4-5 synchro hub grooves on the mainshaft. The 5th gear sleeve pin can shear off or get battered, along with the sleeve itself getting out of inside/outside dia. spec, especially if the sleeve were allowed to travel forward, where the shaft decreases in dia., as this would allow the locate pin to be pushed out of the deep portion of the synchro hub teeth, to a shallower portion where the pin could be battered, and the sleeve would thereby be allowed to spin on the mainshaft.
 
Last edited:

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
220
63
Location
South Alabama
Well here's what I found.
The transmission is out.
The actual bearings seam good.
Very little if any movement. The 14 loose rollers look like hex nuts...
the end of the shaft that rides on them is shot.
Where can I get a new shaft and rollers?
I am in NO way advertising for them in any form...they are higher than most and their shipping is outrageous but Eastern Surplus may be a good choice since you are at least in the same state. They may have a used one that is not $1000's. Put the replacement one in and tinker with the broken one.

I found one in a salvage yard in central Georgia for $250. Put that one in and was going to rebuild the trashed one....never got to it of course.
 
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