I learned to not be lazy.

[IRWFO]

For the past 2 weeks my starter on the 1009 was sounding different. Being so cold out I was too lazy to go under the truck for just 15 seconds to look. If I did I would have seen the bolt falling out of my starter. Well yesterday morning the starter sounded like it was falling apart but did turn the motor over. At lunch in the 3 degree w/ wind chill weather I finally go under & see one of the bolts gone. No big deal, I get 2 new bolts dropped off, but of coarse the bolt didn't just fall out. It broke. Now an hour or so later after dropping the inspection cover & starter, drilling the broken bolt out (at least the reverse drill bit grabbed the bolt and spun it out) then putting everything back I am now up & running again. Near the end I couldn't feel a thing I was so cold. Sure enough this morning right under my truck I saw the broken bolt were it fell out yesterday. The moral of the story. If something doesn't sound right, most likely there is a problem. Check it out right away.

 

[surpdlr]

STARTER SUPPORT BRACKET - DON'T FORGET IT!!!

Don’t forget the starter support bracket!!! I makes a BIG difference in the life span of the 2 starter bolts, and the flex plate. Oh, welcome to the CUCV starter bolt club, I have been a member several times since the mid 1990's!!

 

[OPCOM]

RE: STARTER SUPPORT BRACKET - DON

Is this a common issue for any GM with that bellhousing or engine?

 

[ida34]

RE: STARTER SUPPORT BRACKET - DON

It is when the rear bracket is missing. The long heavy starter is too much for the two starter bolts without the bracket.

 

[IRWFO]

RE: STARTER SUPPORT BRACKET - DON

It was there but the nut was missing. Now everything is perfect.

 

[acetomatoco]

RE: STARTER SUPPORT BRACKET - DON

I joined the club too... no end support and the bolts had been reused... they stretch... use new bolts every time... just like head bolts... after they stretch they have a small diameter and are prone to loosening and shearing... Giant torque and poor design... lead to failure...the reverse drill bit worked well for me... they usually come out easily because they have been stretched...ACE

 

[marine0311]

For the past 2 weeks my starter on the 1009 was sounding different. Being so cold out I was too lazy to go under the truck for just 15 seconds to look. If I did I would have seen the bolt falling out of my starter. Well yesterday morning the starter sounded like it was falling apart but did turn the motor over. At lunch in the 3 degree w/ wind chill weather I finally go under & see one of the bolts gone. No big deal, I get 2 new bolts dropped off, but of coarse the bolt didn't just fall out. It broke. Now an hour or so later after dropping the inspection cover & starter, drilling the broken bolt out (at least the reverse drill bit grabbed the bolt and spun it out) then putting everything back I am now up & running again. Near the end I couldn't feel a thing I was so cold. Sure enough this morning right under my truck I saw the broken bolt were it fell out yesterday. The moral of the story. If something doesn't sound right, most likely there is a problem. Check it out right away.

Well my story starts where your story starts...with the starter bolt on my cucv breaking. I don't know why but i do know i need that bolt out to get it running again. I cant tell you how many problems i had with the starter. First my batteries die, then my starter goes out after two months of use, then the new one leaves me a broken bolt. I hear you have to take a drill bit to the broken piece and "easy out" it. I have no idea how you do that, but i know its hard. Thanks to your post i know i'm not the only one with this problem so i was wondering how do you do it and how long did it take you. Thanks

 

[IRWFO]

Well my story starts where your story starts...with the starter bolt on my cucv breaking. I don't know why but i do know i need that bolt out to get it running again. I cant tell you how many problems i had with the starter. First my batteries die, then my starter goes out after two months of use, then the new one leaves me a broken bolt. I hear you have to take a drill bit to the broken piece and "easy out" it. I have no idea how you do that, but i know its hard. Thanks to your post i know i'm not the only one with this problem so i was wondering how do you do it and how long did it take you. Thanks

Wow this is an old post of mine. Since I broke quite a few bolts before replacing the flex plate I can do this in my sleep. Of all the bolts to break on the engine it is one of the easier ones. The bolt is soft and very easy to drill into. Go and get yourself a "Reverse Drill Bit" 1/4" or less and a matching EZ-Out. You will also need a center punch and hammer. Since the bolt is not bottomed out it will usually turn out fairly easy. First take the center punch and get the tip as close to the middle of the broken bolt as possible. Then give it a good whack with the hammer. Now take your drill, set on reverse and slowly drill into the bolt. Take your time and keep the drill straight and in the center of the bolt. Most of the time the bit will grab the bolt and spin it out for you. If it doesn't drill into the bolt about a half inch. Then insert your EZ-Out into the new hole and give it a tap with the hammer. Now take a wrench and unscrew the bolt.

I deal with broken bolts all the time at my job and I learned over the years to just take your time.

 

[Crash_AF]

Does anyone have a size for the nut that holds the starter to the support bracket?

Later,
Joe

 

[dependable]

This advice is similar to IRWFO. Which is good . I am Just filling it out more for someone who has spent less time under trucks. This has happened a few times in my 6.2 fleet. I have a good USA made screw extactor set made by Hanson. The first thing to try is reverse drill bits that come with a set like this. This works most of the time. With a good cordless drill, some good fitting eye protection, and good lighting ,just center the drill bit....You can use a centering punch to help get drill bit to start in center... put drill in reverse and the left hand drill bit will often pull the broken starter bolt out with very little effort.... Go slow.... You will probably have to remove front driveshaft and tie it out of the way. If it has been jammed in you might have to go to the next step, the screw extractor, but you will have already correct hole for this with the reverse bit... ... Whatever you do , don't break off a hardened screw extractor off in block, you can't drill it out ...... When it comes out, you can try a NEW starter bolt, but if the threads in the block have been screwed up at all. it is time for a Heli Coil. This is a tread repair kit available at auto parts stores. Match the thread to the correct starter bolt(metric) . I have made this repair and have it last years. The key is to drill strait, I suggest a brand new high quality bit of the size speced by the Heli Coil kit. ...Remember to keep eye protection on. When you get it all fixed, you need to secure starter end bracket or go to gear reduction starter , which weighs a lot less and runs smoother. Good Luck, it is not that hard.

 

[319]

FYI, there is also a bracket available for use with the gear reduction starter. It's a GM #23502557. I believe (not positive) the bracket stud size is 1/4-20 on both the OEM starter and the gear reduction starter, although as mentioned above, the other bolts are metric.

 

[marine0311]

This advice is similar to IRWFO. Which is good . I am Just filling it out more for someone who has spent less time under trucks. This has happened a few times in my 6.2 fleet. I have a good USA made screw extactor set made by Hanson. The first thing to try is reverse drill bits that come with a set like this. This works most of the time. With a good cordless drill, some good fitting eye protection, and good lighting ,just center the drill bit....You can use a centering punch to help get drill bit to start in center... put drill in reverse and the left hand drill bit will often pull the broken starter bolt out with very little effort.... Go slow.... You will probably have to remove front driveshaft and tie it out of the way. If it has been jammed in you might have to go to the next step, the screw extractor, but you will have already correct hole for this with the reverse bit... ... Whatever you do , don't break off a hardened screw extractor off in block, you can't drill it out ...... When it comes out, you can try a NEW starter bolt, but if the threads in the block have been screwed up at all. it is time for a Heli Coil. This is a tread repair kit available at auto parts stores. Match the thread to the correct starter bolt(metric) . I have made this repair and have it last years. The key is to drill strait, I suggest a brand new high quality bit of the size speced by the Heli Coil kit. ...Remember to keep eye protection on. When you get it all fixed, you need to secure starter end bracket or go to gear reduction starter , which weighs a lot less and runs smoother. Good Luck, it is not that hard.

Speaking of gear reduction starters. Before the bolt broke off my starter crapped out on me. It took in hour to find the right one to give me but while figuring out what i needed a 12v gear reduction starter came into my hands. I barely know enough about 24v systems so i said no that's not the right one. In the end i wound up with the right starter i guess, but problem after problem one of the batteries died after a couple of days and then it did it again. So here i am asking the experts about the 12v starter and if the gen 1 light coming on when i start it has anything to do with the batteries. Thanks.... wow that was a mouth full.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

I've never had a minutes trouble out of mine the entire time I've owned it Also, to prevent it from ever happening to me, I'm just gunna swap in a Cummins

 

[dependable]

Not sure I'm an expert . But if you are converted to 12 v you only need one alternator. Your batteries need to be in parerelel. not seiries, so you have the negative terminals to each other and grounding to both frame(neg junction block on firewall) and engine, and your positives hooked up and going to pos junction block on firewall. A volt meter is a good thing to have. Make sure you are at 12v on batteries, a working 12v charging system may be as high as 14v. In my opinion, it is good to use driver side alt so you have doulble belts on hydraulic pump. this alt has an isolated ground, but is also grounded to engine . There are several ways to do the 12 v conversion. I trust others will have advice that can add to mine.

 

[marine0311]

I've never had a minutes trouble out of mine the entire time I've owned it Also, to prevent it from ever happening to me, I'm just gunna swap in a Cummins

Cummins in a cucv? Two words describe such epic and great actions.....FREAKIN AMAZING!!!! You could do like 2milisec quarter miles....just kidding

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Why, thank you sir!

I'm quite excited about it myself, except for the fact, that I'm paying for all this junk...... 6BT Cummins, NV4500, NP205, etc, etc......




Also, I agree with the original poster. Don't be lazy, fix it right...the first time! I've worked on just about everything on my truck. Built, rebuilt, and swapped transmissions, lifted it, crossover steering, fixing to do hydro assist steering, put a locker up front, and just rebuilt the kingpins, turned the rotors, and repacked the wheel bearings and greased the hubs. I have quite the intimate knowledge of my darling M1008 I've learned a lot, and luckily (thus far) nothing has broke or been broken by anything I did or didn't do. So keep up the maintainence, spend a few bucks, and have fun!