I Need a Voltmeter Gauge for a CUCV M1009 1985

[Warthog]

What are the other two relays next to the starter (doghead) relay for?

As usual they are listed in the tech manuals.

They are the GEN2 relay and the 24v relay. Both use 12v to energize and switch a 24v load.

You can look here for more fun and exciting info:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/50551-cucv-switches-diodes-relays.html

 

[dpaulus]

Does the new resistor need to be soldered in?

 

[Warthog]

Usually it is just wrapped around the two terminals.

 

[dpaulus]

Thanks! I just ordered the one from Mouser Electronics.

 

[soldierman79]

Usually it is just wrapped around the two terminals.

Here's a question (possibly a stupid one).
If my CUCV has been converted to 12V, would removing the resistor and replacing with a jumper wire, will the voltmeter work again?

Go easy on me if it is, indeed, a stupid question.

 

[cpf240]

Here's a question (possibly a stupid one).
If my CUCV has been converted to 12V, would removing the resistor and replacing with a jumper wire, will the voltmeter work again?

Go easy on me if it is, indeed, a stupid question.

Just remove the resistor... a jumper wire would just make a short.

 

[soldierman79]

Just remove the resistor... a jumper wire would just make a short.

Thank you!

I'm gonna do that!

 

[dpaulus]

To change the resistor on the back of the volt gauge, do you just remove the screws in steps 1 and 3 (pg 4-16) in TM...-20 to pull out the instrument cluster plate and disconnect plugs from the back of the plate to access the resistor?

In other words, will I need to do any of the disassembly steps? Any advice to not mess up any other connections when pulling an instrument cluster for the first time?

Thanks.

 

[cpf240]

Step 1) Disconnect batteries!
Step 2) Double check to make sure that the batteries are disconnected!
Step 3) Remove instrument cluster trim
Step 4) Disconnect voltmeter wires
Step 5) Remove resistor from back of voltmeter
Step 6) Put it all back together again

 

[Warthog]

Pull the very bottom fuse as it is hot at all times and can shortout when removing the gauge.

Just a coulpe of nuts to remove. No major disassembly required

 

[dpaulus]

The instrument cluster plate is off, and the wire harness to the wait light needs to be disconnected to he to the voltmeter to replace the resistor. The wires aren't long enough for me to get my hands in there, and I can't see what kind of connection it is. Does anyone know if it is an automotive connection with the tab that needs to be pushed in or pulled out, or do you just pull it straight out without disengaging any tabs?

thank you.

 

[dpaulus]

"... disconnected to he to the voltmeter..." Should say "disconnected to GET to the voltmeter".

thanks.

 

[Warthog]

The wait light and water in fuel bulbs twists to remove.

 

[dpaulus]

Warthog, Thank You! Got the bulbs out.

 

[dpaulus]

Voltmeter works great with new resistor. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Warthog]

 

[Warthog]

Thanks! I just ordered the one from Mouser Electronics.

You might relist the part number, price and maybe a picture of the resistor you ordered.

 

[dpaulus]

The 5 watt 300 ohm resister is mouser.com part number 660-MOS5C301J. It cost about $1, but cost $5 to ship.

It it has thick insulation on it.

 

[dpaulus]

Don't know why it is posting the picture upside down. Sorry about that.

 

[marchplumber]

Hey there folks,

I have a question for ya. When I removed my gauge from the M1009, I noticed that I didn't have the "ceramic" resistor on the back. I only had two wires attached to the gauge. I looked at the pic that was posted here earlier and wrapped my new resistor around the appropriate terminals. When I turned the key to the "on" position it pegged the gauge. Tested the terminals at the wire harness, 24v approx. with digital multimeter. Is it possible that this is a 24volt gauge? I understand from prior reading that is suppose to be a 12v. If it is, I guess that the gauge has gone bad, cause it will show approx. 24v prior to start up, will show 28v for a brief time after start up, then it will peg out. Any suggestions? New gauge? THANKS guyz!