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I think I got lucky buying a Mep803A form auction!

stugpanzer

Member
129
10
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Location
Sandwich, IL
Not going to say a word about the wiring. I would have done the same.

BUT, yes there is a but. I will say you havent studied the book enough yet. I am a nag, I know. But its your best friend.

Now a quick load test. Nothing big, just enough to see if the gages work. Then you need to do the fine work. It looks clean, sounds good. I think you got a runner!
Coming up with a load test plan. I do have a transfer switch which I use with a 7kw gas screamer with some circuits such as sump pump, furnace blower, lights, TV, etc and so I will be connecting to that. After that I was going to try to locate someone that has an electric range that I can connect to for decent load test. I have admired some peoples own innovative homemade setups but starting small here!

Meanwhile, yes I will be reading the operators manual and continuing on to some of the other TM's.

I really appreciate the guidance and gentle kick in the arse as needed and please continue to do so!
 

stugpanzer

Member
129
10
18
Location
Sandwich, IL
Ground rod installed? I did not see any green or uninsulated copper wire coming out of the output terminal box.
I had a ground attached to the trailer frame which is attached to the ground lug. When I test with my transfer switch I will be sure to move the ground/neutral bonding bar for that test.
 

stugpanzer

Member
129
10
18
Location
Sandwich, IL
Heat it. You only need to heat a little of it cherry red in one little spot.
I think now that she's running I will revisit the notion of changing the exhaust. I would much rather the exhaust fumes go up instead of down as it is currently configured so I believe I will be trying as you suggested to get that off.
 

rhurey

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Bothell, WA
Coming up with a load test plan. I do have a transfer switch which I use with a 7kw gas screamer with some circuits such as sump pump, furnace blower, lights, TV, etc and so I will be connecting to that. After that I was going to try to locate someone that has an electric range that I can connect to for decent load test. I have admired some peoples own innovative homemade setups but starting small here!

Meanwhile, yes I will be reading the operators manual and continuing on to some of the other TM's.

I really appreciate the guidance and gentle kick in the arse as needed and please continue to do so!
I think you have the order backwards. Start the load test with a load you can afford to have fried until the unit proves it works under load. I use the house now to exercise my generator. But it proved it would work for hours first with water heater elements.
 

Guyfang

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I think now that she's running I will revisit the notion of changing the exhaust. I would much rather the exhaust fumes go up instead of down as it is currently configured so I believe I will be trying as you suggested to get that off.
As suggested, use heat, and tap it a bit with a hammer. Don't beat the stuffings out of it. Tap it. It should come off easy.
 

frank8003

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Exhaust pipe.jpg

The photo shows it is, or was, just regular galvanized pipe. 3/4" taper per foot on the pipe threads. Put some Kroil on it, tap all around the fittings for a few days. Before attempting to animal it apart, try to tighten the fittings a degree or so, and put more Kroil (ATF/acetone) in the threads. Corrosion has it bound up on only 2 threads. When I say "tap" I mean put steel behind the fitting and "nail" it.
If you do use concentrated heat the penetrants are flammable, I know you know that, but put the heat on mostly to the female threaded parts.
In all these years, seldom have used the heat tool to get stuff apart.
 
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stugpanzer

Member
129
10
18
Location
Sandwich, IL
I think you have the order backwards. Start the load test with a load you can afford to have fried until the unit proves it works under load. I use the house now to exercise my generator. But it proved it would work for hours first with water heater elements.
Good point! Thanks!
 

stugpanzer

Member
129
10
18
Location
Sandwich, IL
Its been a while since a updated everybody on this thread but due to that pesky day job and family crisis I was put a bit behind. I was finally able to get that old exhaust pipe off and as you all pointed out, all it took was a (proper) torch and about 2 minutes of heating and it came right off! I got myself a galvanized coupler and a tractor exhaust flapper.
Now my next task is to load bank the unit. I made my own load bank and once I run through a full load bank and finish documenting everything I will share what I made and my results in a new thread.
She gives me a bit of white smoke when she first starts but after she warms up its pretty clear!
I had one issue where I had a coolant leak. Turns out the little rubber stopper near the lower hose into the engine was a bit dry rotted! I did a hillbilly fix which seems to be holding well!

20180131_173425.jpg20180131_173649.jpg20180131_175128.jpg20180111_122216.jpg20180111_133733.jpg
 

Guyfang

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Stugpanzer,

That's a normal thing, the rubber dry rotting. Get yourself some silicone grease, and rub it in of all the rubber stuff once a year. That will solve the problem.

Thanks for the update, too many folks bail out after getting some help, and we never know if what we did, worked.
 

stugpanzer

Member
129
10
18
Location
Sandwich, IL
I'm excited about getting the load bank done and posted. I believe it will be helpful for others and my load bank all fits in a tote and can be stored easily. I don't have the space for an old electric range or two!
 
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