• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

I think my head gasket failed

T9000

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
488
367
63
Location
California
Do you think you could get headstuds on it like it sits? I’m not suggesting that you or anyone else needs them but just for my own curiosity. I seen a guy put a zip tie on the rear studs and slide them into head and set the head and then thread the studs in. I hope I don’t ever have to do what you’re doing. Lol
On a similar subject of figuring out the engine condition, I read that you have a borescope (I have one a 6mm), besides going thru the glow plugs, are there other areas I should look at if my blow-by doesn’t improve?
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
Do you think you could get headstuds on it like it sits? I’m not suggesting that you or anyone else needs them but just for my own curiosity. I seen a guy put a zip tie on the rear studs and slide them into head and set the head and then thread the studs in. I hope I don’t ever have to do what you’re doing. Lol
Doing it the 'right' way, install the studs then the head I don't think will work. I didn't take it apart, the shop did.. but looking at it I don't think there is enough clearance to pull the heads (with studs) while the engine is still in the vehicle.

Possible you could install the heads, then install studs.. but at that point, why not just use the TTY head bolts.
 

T9000

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
488
367
63
Location
California
Doing it the 'right' way, install the studs then the head I don't think will work. I didn't take it apart, the shop did.. but looking at it I don't think there is enough clearance to pull the heads (with studs) while the engine is still in the vehicle.

Possible you could install the heads, then install studs.. but at that point, why not just use the TTY head bolts.
I am so sorry to hear about your troubles, I have much smaller issues and it’s painful, I can only imagine your pain. On the positive side once it’s fixed you can enjoy the truck without worries, if it was going to fail, it’s better that it happened closer to your house than on some road trip.
 
Last edited:

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
I am so sorry to hear about your troubles, I have much smaller issues and it’s painful, I can only imagine your pain. On the positive side (not to sound over optimistic) once it’s fixed you can enjoy the truck without worries, if it was going to fail, it’s better that it happened closer to your house than on some road trip.
Absolutely, I'm very happy that it failed while pulling into my driveway. And the local shop was close enough I could drive it there without the engine overheating. I consider myself very lucky for that, as well as lack of (so far) damage found.
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
On a similar subject of figuring out the engine condition, I read that you have a borescope (I have one a 6mm), besides going thru the glow plugs, are there other areas I should look at if my blow-by doesn’t improve?
I don’t really know, other than maybe the exhaust ports. That’s a lot of work pulling stuff off. I think if you put a 1,000 miles on it and see where you are at. They said my truck had visible blow by and I changed the oil and drove it. I never seen any blow by but I think my truck had 187 miles on it. Rings probably not seated.
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
Doing it the 'right' way, install the studs then the head I don't think will work. I didn't take it apart, the shop did.. but looking at it I don't think there is enough clearance to pull the heads (with studs) while the engine is still in the vehicle.

Possible you could install the heads, then install studs.. but at that point, why not just use the TTY head bolts.
Well it makes me think that you would have more clamping force and a bolt that doesn’t stretch and you can reuse it. Hopefully I never have to do it but I would put studs whether I need them or not. I never like a 1 time use bolt.
 

T9000

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
488
367
63
Location
California
I don’t really know, other than maybe the exhaust ports. That’s a lot of work pulling stuff off. I think if you put a 1,000 miles on it and see where you are at. They said my truck had visible blow by and I changed the oil and drove it. I never seen any blow by but I think my truck had 187 miles on it. Rings probably not seated.
I saw your turbo, it was in great shape, very clean, no signs of oil. Yes, will take another look after 1k miles.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
ARP's newer studs have sockets for Allen keys so you can run them after installing the head. Yes, it should take very little clearance to use studs provided you hold them in the head prior to setting it on the block.
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
Machine shop called, valve seats have cracks in them. The guy at the machine shop said repair would be about $600 a head (both have cracks). (This is the 6.5L GEP.). He said he has repaired them in the past, but those vehicles were old and no longer in service. So he can't say how long the repair actually lasted.

Looking for the head part number (2815014112137) I see them listed between $1200 and $1600 new. So $600 seems like a deal, but am I setting myself up for a future failure?

Alternatively does anyone know of another option?
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,081
1,972
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
Contact Promaxx and give them the NSN number and another number you have. They should be able to tell you if it work. Worth a shot.

Mark
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,587
113
Location
Papalote, TX
That is exactly what I'm looking for. But I really need someone who understands compatibility. I know very little about these engines and the variations for the heads.
Should fit the NA, the only 6.5L with special heads are the civi van/P series and the HMMWV turbo, those applications have a center mount turbo and different intake bolt angles, the civi turbo pickups had the same heads as the NA
I would assume by the price these are Chicom heads.
This of course does not mean they will not perform, they very well may be machined out of the same castings GEP heads use
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
Should fit the NA, the only 6.5L with special heads are the civi van/P series and the HMMWV turbo, those applications have a center mount turbo and different intake bolt angles, the civi turbo pickups had the same heads as the NA
I would assume by the price these are Chicom heads.
I'm seeing on ProMAXX site:

CHE855N - https://promaxxperformance.com/product/gm-6-5-dsl-straight-new-full/

and

CHE856N - https://promaxxperformance.com/product/gm-6-5-dsl-angle-new-full/

The later says "DSL ANGLE NEW FULL" "mostly found on GM 6.5 Diesel Vans and Hummers."
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,587
113
Location
Papalote, TX

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
It should say found on GM 6.5L diesel vans and turbo hummers.
only GM vans and turbo Humvee/hummer use the center mount turbo which uses the angled manifold bolts
Great, so that means it is most likely the one pointed out by SmartDrug above. CHE855N. I sent an email to them and they asked for the casting number. I've got a call into my shop and they're trying to get the number so we can verify. But being in stock, that helps a ton and the price is in the right ball park at least.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,587
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Same ones are on Flaebay with free shipping from Jegs, I think Summit has free shipping also over $200 IIRC
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
Same ones are on Flaebay with free shipping from Jegs, I think Summit has free shipping also over $200 IIRC
ProMAXX just got back to me and said to their knowledge all HMMWV are angled plugs which is CHE856N, which is the one out of stock.. So hopefully the casting numbers can shed light on it.

Edit: Jegs has the 856 in stock, Summit the 855.. So once I get the casting number, hopefully one or the other [or another vendor I've got a call out to] can help.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,587
113
Location
Papalote, TX
ProMAXX just got back to me and said to their knowledge all HMMWV are angled plugs which is CHE856N, which is the one out of stock.. So hopefully the casting numbers can shed light on it.

Edit: Jegs has the 856 in stock, Summit the 855.. So once I get the casting number, hopefully one or the other [or another vendor I've got a call out to] can help.
That is interesting considering we are talking about the angle of the manifold bolts and diesels do not have "plugs" angled or otherwise.
The fact is "all HMMWVs" do not use the same head.
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
711
982
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
That is interesting considering we are talking about the angle of the manifold bolts and diesels do not have "plugs" angled or otherwise.
The fact is "all HMMWVs" do not use the same head.
Ha, I completely missed the word 'plug' there. But I suspect that it's simply a typo, and they means bolts holes.
 
Top