• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Idle Vibration Normal?

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Still new to this M1008 truck and I'm trying to find out how much vibration is normal in these trucks at idle. The dash rattles and other parts rattle on the inside with the truck in drive at a stop. Also the bed rattles and you can clearly hear it outside the truck.

Is this a common symptom of a bad harmonic balancer or could it be something else something else? I may check the flexplate too and motor mounts too.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,493
113
Location
mid- michigan
Still new to this M1008 truck and I'm trying to find out how much vibration is normal in these trucks at idle. The dash rattles and other parts rattle on the inside with the truck in drive at a stop. Also the bed rattles and you can clearly hear it outside the truck.

Is this a common symptom of a bad harmonic balancer or could it be something else something else? I may check the flexplate too and motor mounts too.
The harmonic balancers are know to be a problem on these , 30 year old rubber binding them together.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
The harmonic balancers are know to be a problem on these , 30 year old rubber binding them together.
That was my thought too. I know they tend to go out and could cause damage to the engine.

Thoughts on a decent brand to get? Or are they are all the same? I know Fluidampr is the best but $400 is a little much to spend. I'll try that first since its easy to swap out.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Thanks! Just wasn't sure if vibration was a symptom of a bad one or not. Either way it needs to be replaced from age.
 

TGP (IL)

Active member
512
35
28
Location
Metro East IL
Check your motor mounts especially the right side.
I'm sure you'll find there shot and the engine brackets are touching the cross member.
That sets up all kinds of noises and vibrations.
Tom
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
25
38
Location
Houston Texas
If the rubber on your balancer has ANY CRACKS then replace it!!! Don't take a chance. I have broken a crankshaft this way.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Check your motor mounts especially the right side.
I'm sure you'll find there shot and the engine brackets are touching the cross member.
That sets up all kinds of noises and vibrations.
Tom
Thanks Tom. Will look there as well. Hopefully they are not too hard to get to. I do have an engine hoist that can lift up the engine a couple inches.
If the rubber on your balancer has ANY CRACKS then replace it!!! Don't take a chance. I have broken a crankshaft this way.
Ordering one tonight regardless. Thanks!
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
If all the parts mentioned above check out ok. It could just be as simple as your idle speed. My first M1009 had a terrible harmonic that made everything shake and buzz after I had driven at highway speeds for more than 20 miles. I figured out a way to check idle speed and just a 50 rpm difference made it all better.
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
25
38
Location
Houston Texas
Thanks Tom. Will look there as well. Hopefully they are not too hard to get to. I do have an engine hoist that can lift up the engine a couple inches.

You will not need to lift the engine to replace the balancer. Just remove the fan, shroud and pulley. it comes off easy with a good puler
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Motor mount on left side will allow the stud of the exhaust manifold at the oil dipstick to chew into the upper frame flange. May I suggest Energy Suspension motor mounts? And the right side of the right will sink and rest on the fuel feed line. Causing a possible minor fuel leak and allow the system to drop fuel and make for hard starting. Just a thought. I changed my motor mounts and put new ones from NAPA in place. 1 trip to Rausch Creek and the mounts were sunk. I think they were old stock and the rubber disintegrated on a hard pull at the power lines. Good Luck. Stay warm. Do 1 side at a time and a piece of wood and bottle jack work fine.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
I replaced my motor mounts with ORD competition motor mounts, and also replaced harmonic balancer, transmission cross-member and adapter between transmission and transfer case......truck still has all kinds of rattles and buzzes/vibrations......what I have noticed though is that depending on what kind of terrain I've put the truck through in 4WD, the severity of the rattles/buzzes/vibrations may change and/or migrate to different areas of the truck......bottom line my '84 M1028 is a beast offroad, and I chalk up rattles/buzzes/vibrations to 30+ year old suspension/frame technology.......doesn't bother me.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I replaced my motor mounts with ORD competition motor mounts, and also replaced harmonic balancer, transmission cross-member and adapter between transmission and transfer case......truck still has all kinds of rattles and buzzes/vibrations......what I have noticed though is that depending on what kind of terrain I've put the truck through in 4WD, the severity of the rattles/buzzes/vibrations may change and/or migrate to different areas of the truck......bottom line my '84 M1028 is a beast offroad, and I chalk up rattles/buzzes/vibrations to 30+ year old suspension/frame technology.......doesn't bother me.
I am surprised you still have teeth in your head. They are solid steel on steel motor mounts from looking at the picture. Why are you afraid all 135 HP in the CUCV are going to flop the engine over if you accelerate too fast? That truck has enough rattles it don't need solid motor mounts. Now I would be afraid of breaking things. You want the flex with at least urethane mounts. Have a great day. Vibration free I hope.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/motormounts.htm
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
698
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
I am surprised you still have teeth in your head. They are solid steel on steel motor mounts from looking at the picture. Why are you afraid all 135 HP in the CUCV are going to flop the engine over if you accelerate too fast? That truck has enough rattles it don't need solid motor mounts. Now I would be afraid of breaking things. You want the flex with at least urethane mounts. Have a great day. Vibration free I hope.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/motormounts.htm
They have urethane bushings in the mounts. They’re in the pictures in the link you posted.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
They do transmit more vibration than the factory mount. I'd rather use the stock rubber clam shell engine mounts or even do the energy bushings inside the clam shells. Held fine on a modified 496 BBC.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Do the timing cover front seal while you are at it. Also, get the balancer puller kit with the 16x 1.5mm thread main shaft. Then you can use it as a balancer installer too.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Do the timing cover front seal while you are at it. Also, get the balancer puller kit with the 16x 1.5mm thread main shaft. Then you can use it as a balancer installer too.
Thanks! Yeah I was just looking for a bolt that size to install it with my HB tools. Also need to verify pulley is good. Hopefully Dorman HB is ok to use. Ordered the seal 2 days ago, need to go get it.

Still have a vibration in drive at a stop. Need to look at trans mounts too.
 
Last edited:
Top