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If you had $1500 to upgrade a M1009, what would you do?

Napoleon_Tanerite

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I'm looking to upgrade my M1009 into a better truck. My main goals are power and reliability. I already have creature comfort stuff like stereo and AC installed, though I would like to quiet the cab down more in the future, but that is a lower priority than the previously stated goalsof power and reliability.

I will not be ding thework myself, I will be taking it to a local diesel shop, so factor labor into your suggestions.
 

patracy

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Hmm, if I wasn't going to lift it. I'd say, 700R4 and find a set of 3.73 geared civy axles. You'd keep the cruise ability, but really pick up on the bottom end.

OR, piece together a turbo setup from a 6.5 civy 2500 or 3500. And swap in a set of 3.42 geared civy axles.

If there wasn't a budget, turbo setup + 700R4 or NV4500 + 1008 axles.
 

doghead

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I would just spend the $1500 on fuel, and drive to a SS rally and have fun for a few days.
 

Napoleon_Tanerite

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My chief complaint is lack of power on towing. When towing my boat ~(2700 lbs) it's so gutless it loses speed on any slope. What kind of cost am i looking at for a 700r4 swap? Turbo would be tough due to the space taken up under the hood by the AC components.
 

jimmy-90

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If I had an M1009 with $1500 to spend on it I would probly see if I could find a deal on a set of 3/4 ton axles. Dana 60/14 bolt ff with 3.73 gears. That will make your M1009 alot beffier with more towing grunt. 3/4 ton axles should bolt right in but 1tons will not. You will also have to replace or convert the drive shafts.
 

patracy

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If I had an M1009 with $1500 to spend on it I would probly see if I could find a deal on a set of 3/4 ton axles. Dana 60/14 bolt ff with 3.73 gears. That will make your M1009 alot beffier with more towing grunt. 3/4 ton axles should bolt right in but 1tons will not. You will also have to replace or convert the drive shafts.
The Dana 60 is the determining factor of a 1 ton running gear over a 3/4 ton running gear. At least in the earlier years of the 73-87 period. The 3/4 ton trucks had a Dana 44 or Corp 10 bolt front end and a 14 bolt rear end FF. The 80's trucks started using a lighter duty 14 bolt 9.5" rear semi floating axle.

All of the axles can bolt in. With the exception of dually or van rear ends. They have a different spring mounting width. The driveshafts will need an adapter u-joint at the least.
 

Napoleon_Tanerite

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If I had an M1009 with $1500 to spend on it I would probly see if I could find a deal on a set of 3/4 ton axles. Dana 60/14 bolt ff with 3.73 gears. That will make your M1009 alot beffier with more towing grunt. 3/4 ton axles should bolt right in but 1tons will not. You will also have to replace or convert the drive shafts.
Problem is I do enough highway driving that any increased gear ratio on the axle will negatively impact my normal use of the vehicle. For example, my drive to my hunting spot is about an hour at 70mph. This is why the 700r4 swap is more appealing. The additional gear would help with low end power, while not sacrificing highway driveability.
 

pgwaldner

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Turn up the injector pump and add a cold air intake. More HP takes more fuel/air. Also try adding CLEAN used motor oil to fuel tank when towing as there is more energy to burn then.
 

pgwaldner

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Add carpet or an insulated rubber mat. It makes a world of difference in heat and noise transfer. A power rear window would also be on the list so you can roll the window up and down from driver's seat while in motion.
 

Napoleon_Tanerite

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Add carpet or an insulated rubber mat. It makes a world of difference in heat and noise transfer. A power rear window would also be on the list so you can roll the window up and down from driver's seat while in motion.
Actually I have already done a lot to insulate the cab. I have double layered FatMat on the floor covered by a rubber mat, and also a layer of fat mat on the ceiling too. I have carpet on the inside walls of the bed. You're right, it made a major difference on noise. A power window would be nice, but doesn't fit into my goals.
 

Recovry4x4

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In my opinion, gears are a major contributing factor, especially on the towing side. Since you are operating on a $1500 budget, you would have to be savvy to do this but it can be done. I would switch to 3/4 ton 8 lug axles. 1 tons would be nice but the 60F would eat up most of the budget. I bought 4.10 geared 3/4 ton stuff for my burb for $500 and it has worked flawlessly for years. I have the semi float rear which is not what I wanted but a major step up from the 10 bolt. I would then do the 700R4 swap. This combo would actually reduce your cruising RPM at 70 MPH from 2469 to 2177. The deeper 1st gear and 4.10s would improve your power immensly on accelleration and towing. After the fact I did find a FF 14 bolt on CL for $80 so that upgrade is next. Some cheap power upgrades are adding a second snorkel to the air cleaner housing and ducting them out towards the grill to get a cooler air charge. Another little benefit would be a balance tube between the dual exhaust. Unfortunatley, all of these upgrades are naught since the only way to keep them in budget is to do the work yourself. Paying the labor for someone else to do the work is going to really dampen your upgrades.
 
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