If you have an M105A2 with an undamaged valve ...

[KaiserM109]

I got a callback from Air Brake Specialties http://www.airbrakespec.com/ today and the small parts will be available. We got interrupted before we traded addresses, so I'll keep you posted. They also have valves and rebuild kits.

He suggested that the pipe from the reservoir be re-plumbed to get it closer to the bed. About turning it over with the fragile parts up: it has to be positioned with the exhaust/wasp excluder down because it is also a water drain.

I will post more info as soon as I have it.

 

[vinny-socom1]

I hope this helps! Vinny

 

[KaiserM109]

Jones,
Thanks for the good pictures. Between yours and Vinny’s, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=153797 I can figure out what mine used to look like. There appear to be at least 3 varieties of the flappers.

The excluder is not available alone, but is part of the rebuild kit. The guy at Air Brake Specialties is sending me 5 that he has salvaged from pull-out parts of valves that he has rebuilt and sending them to me out of his own good will. Of the 5 pull-outs. I am keeping 2 for my trailers, Jason needs 2 and that leaves 1 up for grabs. I might possibly get more.

If your valve needs to be rebuilt, contact www.odiron.com or Jones for a kit. You can contact www.airbrakespec.com for either a rebuilt unit or a factory new unit, no core charge.

I am going to investigate the suggestion that an elbow be added between the reservoir tank and the valve to position the valve higher. I have in mind a couple of 45 degree elbows. I will keep you posted.

Thanks to everyone who responded and especially to Vinny and Jones who took pictures.

 

[KaiserM109]

Vinny,
Those pictures tell me a lot. There is more info on this subject at http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=153849. Thanks for taking the time to help.

 

[emmado22]

Mine appears the same as above...

 

[Jones]

I posted some pictures (assembled and disassembed) on the Emergency Relay Valve Problems thread. They should tell you what you need to know.

 

[clinto]

Out of curiosity, is the valve on the firewall mounted air pressure regulator the same as the 105 wasp excluder?

 

[Jones]

Looks a little smaller in diameter. My regulator is mounted directly on my compressor so I ain't much help here.

 

[jasonjc]

no two completly difrent thing.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Dang Clinto, I was working on my 109 today and noticed the same thing. Oh well, sounds like it will not work.

 

[ajg6989]

you can also everyonce once in a while run some small amount of transmisson fluid thin oil through the air system to help keep the valves from sticking there is an actual air conditioning fluid thats sold but its just thin oil

 

[Rattlehead]

So what was the consensus on which Midland part number works as the replacement for the emergency relay valve?

 

[emmado22]

Check my thread on "M105A2 trailer brakes not working Now fixed"

 

[builder77]

That looks like a thin piece of stiff rubber sheeting cut to the right diameter would work. You could probably find something suitable from MSC Direct, McMaster-Carr or Grainger.

 

[KaiserM109]

The guys at Air Brake Specialties, Inc. were great. They rebuild the valves and he sent me 5 excluders which I have used on my trailers or given away. There was no other significant damage.

On the 3 units I have, 2 105s and 1 MKT-85, I am planning to aim the tank upward at a 45 degree angle and put a 45 degree fitting between it and the valve to get the valve above the frame rails. It kinda hangs down and is asking for a whack on a rock. The valve has to lay generally with the wasp excluder pointed down because that is an exhaust port and discharges water. As well designed as the rest of the trailers are, it kinda surprises me that this is as poorly done as it is.

Arlyn

 

[rosco]

There are numerous "Relay Emergency Valves". I always liked the Bendix RE-6 valve. It will do the job and is simple to hook up. It would be a direct replacement. I don't believe it is worth fussing with an old valve. When they get old, they also get gummy inside. Just replace it! Your dealing with brakes - I want them to work, and I also want the "other Guys" brakes to work too. The parts that are falling off, are trying to tell you something.

Lee in Alaska

 

[KaiserM109]

The only problem with these is they hang down and when GL picks the trailer up with a forlkift (and they have HUGE forklifts) they often pop the plastic wasp excluder off. I saw 6 for 6 like that at Ft. Carson. Nothing wrong with the valve except damaged wasp excluder which is easy!! to change out if you can get your hands on a replacement.

I want to plug www.airbrakespec.com for being helpful and generous. They deal with all kinds of valves, including the ones that come on the M105s.

Arlyn in Colorado

 

[Wildchild467]

I know this is an older thread, but I think my question is best posted in here, thus why I don’t want to start a new thread (keep the information together). What causes the relay valves to fail or otherwise not work like they should? I can understand if they sit a long time and the piston might get stuck from corrosion.... I understand that. It does not look like there is much to these valves. instead of buying new relay valves, couldn’t we just take them apart and lube things up again and see what happens? I took my air compressor governor apart on my deuce and cleaned it up. Basically I just polished up the piston and whatever other parts where in there and it worked good. Back to the relay valve, what is the main component of these valves that fail that could not be fixed by polishing up the piston and bore with real fine sandpaper (maybe 400 grit). What other “wear items” are there in these valves that would go bad?

Also if there is a rebuild kit for these relay valves, what does the kit contain? Maybe only one piece really wears out and if so, could we just get that single part? It might be cheaper than buying a whole rebuild kit.

 

[KaiserM109]

I thought this thread looked familiar.

It looks like the company that helped me out, Air Brake Specialties, is out of business. All links to them end up dead end.

What is your symptom?

If your problem is that the brakes won’t release when you have parked and disconnected it, that is normal. Just bleed the tank and start over. As with any old vehicle, you should not park it long term with the shoes run out to the drum; you should chock the wheels and bleed the air tank.

I would guess that you are right about disassembling and cleaning one of the valves. I don’t think that there is anything unique about it. It simply switches the reserve tank to the brakes if the supply line is ever disconnected.

Good luck,
Arlyn

 

[bsorcs]

Continuning the revival of this thread

All valves pictured in this thread differ from the Canada-made valve on my '87 Kasel M105A2. Comparing the photo below with the earlier ones, the bolt pattern mirrors the others, the plug in the base is aft of the wasp excluder, and it has a reliev valve that looks like the ones on the deuce axles. Tag reads PC. NO. 7004-37 NS-53004-1.

On nosing around, I find new RE-6s from $40 [aftermarket]-109 [Bendix] and remans [no core charge] from $20-60...bought one for $20. We'll see.

For what it's worth, Haldex lists two repair kits...282812K and 280856k...for the RE-6 emergency relay valve. The former has more parts than the latter! I'll pull the old one apart to see how it looks; that should shed some light. We'll see how the reman looks swhen it shows.