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For what its worth, looking at the fuse spec'd out in the TM is rated for 125VAC
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Did not know that. Thanks for the info.As a general rule an AC fuse can be used in a DC application as long as the DC voltage is < 50% of the AC voltage rating of the fuse.
The one spec'd out in the TM is O.K. to use up to 60 volts DC.
Good enough? https://www.mcmaster.com/71385K43/
Fuse Trade Size | 3AB |
Current | 30 A |
Voltage | 250V AC/125V DC |
Breakthrough Current | 1,000 A @ 125 V AC 400 A @ 125 V DC |
200A is the listed breakthrough current on that item:I can't seem to find a breakthrough amperage rating on the Eaton OEM one, but the alternate Ive bought before (BK/ABC-30-R) shows an interrupt rating of only 200A... so I think that McMaster fuse might not blow when you want.
Current Rating: | 30 A | |
Fuse Type: | Fast Blow | |
Fuse Size / Group: | 3AG (6.3 mm x 32 mm) | |
Voltage Rating AC: | 250 VAC | |
Voltage Rating DC: | 125 VDC | |
Interrupt Rating: | 200 A |
I will try to replace it first.Entirely possible as the arc would have been on the DC circuit, which this gauge also is. There are testing methods in the TMs for the gauges to confirm if they are good or not.
Agreed, at this point you don't know if its the gauge, sending unit, or both.Firing the Parts cannon can fix problems... but not always. You could always just download TM 9-6115-641-24 if you don't have it yet, and reference PDF Page 113 to know for certain (for no money out of pocket):
Pretty simple with a one wire sender. This works for any gauge. Ohm check the wire from the sender to the gauge. If that’s good, with the wire disconnected from the sender and the gauge supplied with power, the gauge should be pegged on the high side. With the wire disconnected from the sender and then grounded the gauge should be pegged on the low side.You guys really go deep into fuse selection! many many time I just went to my assortment of glass tube car fuses and grabbed a $.25 30A 1/4 x 1 1/4 AGC fuse, install it and done!
On the oil gage situation I see someone already changed the oil pressure gage, I'd double check the wiring and check the resistance on the sender, that should give you the answer.
The gauge actually goes down when I apply power....what's up with that?Pretty simple with a one wire sender. This works for any gauge. Ohm check the wire from the sender to the gauge. If that’s good, with the wire disconnected from the sender and the gauge supplied with power, the gauge should be pegged on the high side. With the wire disconnected from the sender and then grounded the gauge should be pegged on the low side.
Where is that sending unit for the oil pressure gauge located? The diagram on the inside of the door does not really show anything, and there's no photos on the TM.Pretty simple with a one wire sender. This works for any gauge. Ohm check the wire from the sender to the gauge. If that’s good, with the wire disconnected from the sender and the gauge supplied with power, the gauge should be pegged on the high side. With the wire disconnected from the sender and then grounded the gauge should be pegged on the low side.
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