• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

In Tank Fuel Pump FIX

fulleraviation

New member
50
0
0
Location
Tallahassee, Fl.
Hey Guy's,

Been reading alot about the in tank fuel pump problems people have been posting. Well, mine went out too, and just got arround to mess with it. I even thought about ordering in line kits or replacements.

Went out to the truck and pulled the head off of the top of the pump. This is where it gets it's power from. There is also a fuse under here. Mine was corroded up and full of moisture. I cleaned it up alittle and hit it with the WD40.

Hooked it back up and it works great. Really need to RVT arround it to keep water out.

Hope this post may help you too, and save the cost of a new pump.

Later,
Rut
 

Attachments

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
48
Location
Brooklet, Ga
I just fixed one of mine the same way. All connections were rusted badly as well as the fuse contact surfaces. Hooked it back up and still did not work. I pulled the pump to inspect and install my spare if needed. This pump had a ground strap form the pump motor to the pump support frame. It was corroded to and when I cleaned it the pump worked just fine, so if the external cleanup does not do the trick dig a little deeper.
 

Whidbey

New member
14
0
0
Location
Hope, IN
This thread came at a perfect time! I just changed fuel filters today and no fuel flow. Came in the house and checked SS and the answer was right here. My fuse holder was corroded just like the pics. Cleaned her up, put in a new fuse with some of that anti corrosion bulb socket goop and she fired right up! Apparently she still was able to run on just the injection pump sucking the fuel from the tank.

THANK YOU !
 

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
48
Location
Brooklet, Ga
Most will run with out the intank pump. Mine was a little slow to start and would not idle until warmed up but then ran fine. Once the pump was fixed it starts right up and will idle instantly.
 

GoHot229

Member
I agree, they will work from just the ip pump, but when your running low on fuel in the tank, it works less well and cuts out of ruel a bit quicker without the in-tank pump
Most will run with out the intank pump. Mine was a little slow to start and would not idle until warmed up but then ran fine. Once the pump was fixed it starts right up and will idle instantly.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
...
Hooked it back up and it works great. Really need to RVT arround it to keep water out.
I'm glad to see your pump is running again. It is pretty important to the truck because it allows you to quickly prime the system if you run out of fuel. Without the in tank pump, you will have to fill the tank right up to the top, and crank the bejesus out of the engine to get the fuel up to the injectors.

I ran out of fuel on my first tankful... Apparently 1/8 tank = empty on my truck. I dumped 5 gallons of diesel into the tank, turned on the accessory switch, and it started after about 1 second of cranking.... Did I mention I was stopped in the middle of an exit ramp on a highway at the time?

Be careful with the RTV around diesel or gasoline, though it would probably be ok up there with the electrical stuff. RTV absorbs diesel fuel, swells up into a jelly like substance, and falls off in crumbs that can clog the primary filter.

-Chuck
 
Last edited:

GoHot229

Member
It works now........ I had the same crudded thing going on. I cleaned it and changed the fuse and now I have a functioning in-tank pump. They will run without, but you loose the ability to purge the filters and I think you loose your fuel to the manifold heater? I pulled the pump also to see how bad the bottom of the tank looked too, and it was really clean and nice looking inside. Everything took about 45 minuates. Time well spent.......
 

1stDeuce

Member
351
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
Pump Dissection

Well, my in-tank pump died during a drive last week. I went through the typical fuse check, wiring check, bang on the tank routine with no luck, so I removed it last night. Couldn't get it working, and it had super high resistance that varied when I banged on it. (Never good!)

After grinding off some rivits and the ring of weld around the sealed motor housing, I took some pictures. The motor would only rock back and forth a little bit. I suspect that the brush I couldn't see was no longer in place, and wedged somewhere. The brush that I could see was very near completely used up. Lots of time on this pump, methinks!!

The motor is sealed in a can that's welded together in the middle where the rubber isolator ring is. It spins a disc with magnets embedded, which sits very close to the bottom of the can. The impeller has another magnet embedded disc that couples magnetically with the motor disc, with only the thin sealed can between them. This way, the motor is protected from the impeller getting stuck, as well as being sealed from fuel. Kinda sweet!

So first pic is the whole unit spread out (with the actual motor backward... Sorry).
Next is a bottom view of the impeller housing, with the bottom removed. No close tolerances here!
Next is a shot of bottom of the motor can, which fits over the top of the impeller housing. You can see the magnetic disc that drives the impeller.
Then there's a shot of the mag disc on the bottom of the motor and the inside of the bottom of the can that houses it. There was some greasy nastiness in here, but not enough to do anything bad.
Then the inside of the top can, with the fried motor power wire. (charred to a crisp and burnt clean off the motor... I didnt cut it!
Last slightly out of focus pic shows where the wire was attached to the motor. Lots of melted (and really stinky) plastic.

I'm far too cheap to buy an orig replacement motor, so I ordered a Carter P4603HD, and I'm going to mount it inside the tank so it looks stock. This should be fine as the pump motor is sealed, and it's marine rated which means spark proof. I'll mount it high in the tank, so it shouldn't be submerged. I can use the orig wire to get power to the pump, thus keeping the function, fusing, power, etc original.

C
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks