In-tank fuel pump issues after 1 year

[Banshee365]

Hey guy's, replaced my in-tank fuel pump with a new unit from a surplus supplier for like $380 last year. I accidentally left my acc. switch on the other night after I was sumping the primary filter bowl. I woke up the next morning and went out to start the truck to notice the switch was still on. The starter would click but wouldn't turn over. I took the batteries out, charged them and now the fuel pump isn't working. I started the truck up and drove around a while to charge them back up all the way and the pump is still dead. I popped the top off and the fuse is good and I don't see anything burnt or unusual? How could running continuously overnight kill the pump like that? I would think these pumps could run for day's on end. There's plenty of fuel in the tank so the pump was submerged the whole time. What else can I do to make sure the pump is actually bad? There's power to the plug but the pump is dead. There is a resistor under the cap between the power lead and the pump which I installed from my old pump. It worked fine until now. Is there supposed to be a resistor in there? Any ideas? Thanks guy's! I'm sure you can understand my frustration since I bought the new pump about a year ago brand new and now it's dead. I can't afford to spend 400 again on a pump when so much other stuff needs work.

-Kelly

 

[gimpyrobb]

You tested the fuse with a continuity tester? I have had fuses look good and test bad.

 

[jwaller]

call up memphis and swap it out. should be under warrenty.

 

[scooter01922]

What ever you do don't spend 400 again, its less than 200 for a brand new pump directly from the manufacturer!!!!!

 

[crazyplowboy]

I just got a BRAND NEW one from Olympic Controls Corp 2 months ago for $225

 

[Banshee365]

Should leaving the switch on all night have killed the pump. Could the batteries slowly dieing down until the pump couldn't run anymore have harmed it? Seems like a premature failure.

 

[scooter01922]

Seems it to me too, should have no issue doing that.

 

[emmado22]

how much fuel was in the tank? The fuel arround the pump/motor assembly helps cool the motor.. Thats why at about 1/2 a tank, you should refuel. Those that like to "drive to E" arent helping their pump's motor live a long life..

 

[Banshee365]

The tank is around 3/4 full right now. I'm confident the pump was fully submerged. I just went out with the flashlight and tested the voltage from the wire just before it goes down into the tank after the fuse to ground and it's 24V+ so the pump is fried. Man this is aggrivating...

 

[JDToumanian]

Should leaving the switch on all night have killed the pump. Could the batteries slowly dieing down until the pump couldn't run anymore have harmed it?

It can depend on how the pump motor is designed........ I've never taken one of those sealed fuel pump motors apart, but D.C. motors can suffer "stall burn". This is when there isn't enough voltage to turn the motor and it's load any more (as the batteries died), but the commutator gets overheated/burned when the motor stops. This can burn out windings, too. The voltage may not be enough to run the pump, but it's still enough to ruin it.

As a locomotive engineer, we are taught about stall burn... leaving the throttle on a low setting while the brakes are applied, holding the train at a stop on a hill, etc. can ruin the traction motors within a few minutes causing several hundred thousand dollars damage.... Do this once and you may get formally reprimanded and disciplined... Do it again and pick another career!!!

Regards,
Jon

 

[cranetruck]

........ There's power to the plug but the pump is dead. There is a resistor under the cap between the power lead and the pump which I installed from my old pump. It worked fine until now. Is there supposed to be a resistor in there? Any ideas?

-Kelly

Explain this resistor, please, it's new to me.

When Jon and I visited Barstow back in '06, I bought a used pump from them for $75. They had a bin full of them and we just picked one that was running after a bench test. It still works...

 

[Banshee365]

Explain this resistor, please, it's new to me.

When Jon and I visited Barstow back in '06, I bought a used pump from them for $75. They had a bin full of them and we just picked one that was running after a bench test. It still works...

Man I wish I could get a pump for that cheap. The resistor is 2 ohms between the plug and fuse block. The resistor was in the truck when I got it. The new pump I got didn't have it so I just put it in there because I figured it was supposed to be there. I'm not sure the exact reason why it's there. I wouldn't think 2 ohms would do much of anything, but who knows. All I know is my pumps dead, gotta make some calls today.

Thanks for the comments guy's. The stall burn thing sounds like something that could have happened to my pump.

 

[cranetruck]

What is the power rating of this resistor? Should be at least 10 or more watts, if smaller it will burn up, not good within the tank....
Besides, it shouldn't be there in the first place....

Edit: A 10-watt resistor is about 2 inches long and will get hot dissipating 8 watts or so. A resistor will "open" when they burn up, like a fuse....

 

[Banshee365]

I'm not sure on the power rating but will go out in a few and check it. I wasn't sure on if it should be there either but it was in the truck when I got it which I figured was the way it came. If it's not supposed to be there I'll leave it out of the next pump for sure. Thanks for letting me know that. Anything to keep number 3 from quitting is a good thing. The first pump that came with the truck was really loud and sounded like it was on it's way out anyway before it actually died.

-Kelly

 

[Banshee365]

Well, I went outside and pulled the pump out and plugged it back in. I tapped it with a wrench and it started working again but was loud and sounded like it really didn't want to run. I turned the accessory switch off and back on and it doesn't come back on until you tap it. It sounds really sluggish but pumps fine when it's actually running. I guess it's fried. Maybe that resistor that's in there had something to do with it. I guess I'm in the market for a new pump, the surplus supplier I bought it from say's there's no warranty and sorry. What's the best place to get a reliable pump at a cheaper price?

-Kelly

 

[SasquatchSanta]

If you have to buy a new pump call Jim O'Shea at Olympic Controls 847-742-5686.

Olympic Controls make the pumps for the military. Price is (was) approx $225.00.

Good luck

 

[cranetruck]

Another thought about the resistor....it may be part of a radio noise suppression circuit and should in that case also include a capacitor. If so, then the resistor/capacitor should not effect the operation of the pump. Not enough info to go by....

 

[Michael]

, the surplus supplier I bought it from say's there's no warranty and sorry.

-Kelly

Sounds like a dealer that needs to be exposed to the list to me. At that price he is not a surplus dealer he is a retailer. Retailers need to offer a warranty. Now if it has been more than a year and the warranty has expired, I could understand that.

Just my

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, I would love to know the places that offer no kinds of warranty.

 

[JDToumanian]

At that price he is not a surplus dealer he is a retailer. Retailers need to offer a warranty.

I agree, if the pump had fried for no reason. In this case I'd be plenty upset, but at myself, not the dealer... Running the batteries down with the pump would fall under "abuse" and be excluded from the warranty anyway.... Though they probably wouldn't do a forensic exam on the dead pump before deciding to give you a new one.