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In tank pump failure, pics

ALFA2

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Location
Phoenix, Arizona
That type of corrosion is usually caused by a bad ground, or a short somewhere in the truck, that caused a feed back to take place, and especially, between the bottom of the pump and the fuel tank floor. Check to make sure that you pump is properly grounded, and that you do not have a slow electrical drain in the truck: batteries going down even if everything is supposed to be off, and the truck sits not ruining for 2 weeks...

It may have been that a previous owner had this issue, and fixed it at some point before you got it, or it may still be there for you to find and fix.

Hope it helps some.

ALFA2
 

cessnatwin

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These dumb things just fall apart! Put them back in put the screen in, and ping them over with a hammer and a punch! I have had this happen several times, if the motor is good it will pump perfectly!
 

JAYHAWK 1962

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tijeras, nm
another silly question about these pumps. they are screwed together with a special screw head. i have found some small figure 8 type screwdrivers used to remove this type of a screw head but nothing large enough to remove the screws in the side of the pump. Where is a large one of these available from? thanks
 

3rdmdqm

Active member
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Location
Woodbine Maryland
Does anyone know the actual number of steel shims (volutes) that are supposed to be in this pump? When I found the bottom had fallen off of mine I don't think there were as many shims as are in the first photo of this thread. Will an incorrect number of shims affect the pressure output of the pump?
 

doghead

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Too many would lower the pump output. too few would hit the impeller and it would not turn/pump.

in post#20, you said you fixed your pump. Are you working on another pump or the same one?
 

3rdmdqm

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Woodbine Maryland
Should that say too few would lower the output and too many would hit the impeller? Yes, I did fix my pump. Once I fished around and found all the shims I could find (3 or 4 I think) and put it all back together it is working. Not sure what the output pressure should be. When cracking the bleeder screw on the secondary filters fuel does squirt out where it did not before but not very strong and truck is very difficult to start in the cold so I was just wondering if I didn't find all of the shims if this would affect the pressure. Maybe I'm just paranoid.
 

doghead

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3-5 psi should be fine, at the secondaries.

I think it would bind if you were missing a plate. I would bet you have it right.

What do you use for fuel? When did you change all three fuel filters?

Maybe you have an air leak in your fuel lines? return lines are common leakers. If you tightem the nuts, it usually makes it worse. line replacement with new tube end inserts and ferrules is a good fix for that.
 

3rdmdqm

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I changed all of the filters within the last few months and have not driven it a great deal. Starts right up over 40 degrees with barely a touch of the button. Under that she takes a bit to get it going. Under 32 degrees and it takes a lot of cranking. I run straight diesel. In really cold temps, once it gets warmed up, even after sitting for a couple of hours will fire right up. It's the really cold starts after sitting for a while that takes the most time, runs really rough for several minutes and then smooths out. Sometimes have to keep the starter engaged even when it sounds like its catching to keep it running or it cuts out. I'll check the return lines for air, thanks for the responses and info.
 
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doghead

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Does your truck ever stall, after it's warm, after a long hard drive? Like when you let off the throttle at a stop light.
 

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
This happened to me also, I didn't discover that I had no fuel pressure until I ran it out of fuel and when trying to bleed the air out ,no pressure. When I pulled my pump I found extra parts like it had happened before,I think theres suposed to be 6 shims but not sure. I peened the housing on mine to keep it from falling apart again.
 

Farmun

Member
253
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Location
Ashland City, TN
Thanks for pictures early in this thread. I'm going to pull my pump out this weekend. I hope to find the screen plate and the shims laying on the bottom of the tank. It hums, but does not pump....
 

RangerDave

New member
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Bar Harbor, ME
I ended up fishing out all of the spacers and drilled out the hole to a nominal size to permit hitting it with a long pop rivet...
but I am still getting some sort of short that causes the pump fuse to burn out... or the pump stops running for no reason after a short ride and no blown fuse...
Time to pull it again...
 

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3rdmdqm

Active member
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Woodbine Maryland
RangerDave, I had the same issue. I pulled my pump, had to fish out all of the shims and bottom screen and put it all back together. Mine was also blowing the fuse constantly. Once I cleaned out all of the contacts under the cover and made sure none of the wires or contacts were touching it stopped blowing fuses. Also, check the wires where they come into the cover, they get brittle, worn and cracked. I had to wrap mine in elctrical tape for added peace of mind. Have not had a blown fuse issue since I did all of the above.
 

FMJ

In Memorial
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Does anyone know the actual number of steel shims (volutes) that are supposed to be in this pump? When I found the bottom had fallen off of mine I don't think there were as many shims as are in the first photo of this thread. Will an incorrect number of shims affect the pressure output of the pump?

The pic I posted was of ALL the parts I fished out of the tank, it was easy, as the tank was removed from the truck, so I just kept pulling out pieces until the tank didn't rattle anymore. . . :)
 

Farmun

Member
253
7
18
Location
Ashland City, TN
Pulled the pump yesterday afternoon, and to my surprise, (or disappointment), the bottom of the pump was still intact. Brought it to the workbench, and started taking the bottom off. There was a wire holding the bottom plate and screen in place. I removed the four screws holding the bottom section on the motor, and slid the bottom off. While doing so, a small "BB" fell out. It appears as though this "BB" goes between the bottom section of the shaft, which has the impeller, and the upper portion, located in the motor housing. While handling the bottom section, the impeller shaft did not want to turn freely, unless it was dead-center in the housing. I couldn't see anything obvious that would keep it from running.

So with daylight running low, and a 12 year-old wanting to play a different game, I put it back together, took it back to the truck, dropped it in, connected the electrical lines. Before connecting the fuel line, I thought why not hit the switch and see what happens? Low and behold, the pump blew fuel all over the frame and top of the tank. Connected the fuel lines, and hit the switch again. I opened the bleeder valve on the secondary filters and waited, and waited, and waited, and nothing came out. Checked the primary filter drain, and a stream of fuel came out, but nothing spectacular.

Thinking I may have enough fuel in the lines to at least get the injector pump drafting from the tank, I hit the mushroom with ether, and hit the red button with my thumb. After a few seconds, she started up, ran rough at first, smoothed out, and then died after about 30 seconds. Several more attempts to get her started, but no luck for me.

I let the in-tank pump run for about 10 minutes with the secondary bleeder open, but no fuel ever made it up there. It appears as though the in-tank pump's motor runs, and can spit out some fuel, but not enough to get it to the secondary filter housing.

I understand that the injector pump will pull from the tank without the in-tank pump running, but can it draft enough to pull fuel through dry lines from the primary filter up to the secondaries?
 

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RangerDave

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Location
Bar Harbor, ME
The answer is yes for me.... My darn in tank fuel pump has never worked properly for the past 5 years..... shame on me... I'm probably ask'n for trouble for running it as long as I have... but it is on the list of things to fix..... as soon as the glacier of snow melts out from under the truck!
 

Westex

Member
579
6
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Location
El Paso, TX
I don't mean to throw a skunk in the living room, but a nice clean fuel tank is a good start. After I purchased my deuces, I dropped the tanks and had them coated with RedCoat; examined the in tank pumps in the process, and put them back in, cleaned out. Haven't had a problem since. I think maybe the screen is the key.
 

Jakob

Member
722
5
18
Location
Louisville, KY
I think I have the same problem, my pump turns on, but I don't think it is pumping any fuel. It's hard as **** to start in cold weather, if it even starts at all and doesn't have the power that it had when I first drove it home.
 
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