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Inflating tube tires with lock ring wheels

Ajax MD

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Question:

If I were crazy enough to attempt to replace an inner tube and tire and inflate it without a cage, using chains, what is the best way to secure the ends of the chain? A padlock? Grade 8 nut and bolt? I have a way to inflate the tire remotely. I have a locking air chuck and I can open the regulator valve on my compressor from inside my garage 50 feet away, controlling the air flow.

I haven't given up searching for a truck shop with a cage, I'm just looking at "Plan B" in case no one will help me.
 

Ajax MD

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Hang on, this might be a better plan-

The only thing stopping me from buying my own inflation cage is lack of a place to store it. Then I found this:
Folding tire cage

11.00x20 tires will definitely fit inside this thing. It's only 2 bars. Is it safe?
 

Mullaney

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Yeah but hook back to itself with what?
.
All you are doing is keeping the "flying parts" contained.
Hook the chain to itself through the holes in the rim.

Definitely want to use a remote fill clip on chuck as you mentioned. Then let it sit for a while and if you aren't in any great hurry, overnight isn't too long. Stand to the side of the tire when you walk up to it. INSPECT it carefully. Everything should still be seated like it was before you started the exercise. If not, disconnect the air hose, drain the tire and bump everything in place again.
 

Ajax MD

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.
All you are doing is keeping the "flying parts" contained.
Hook the chain to itself through the holes in the rim.

Definitely want to use a remote fill clip on chuck as you mentioned. Then let it sit for a while and if you aren't in any great hurry, overnight isn't too long. Stand to the side of the tire when you walk up to it. INSPECT it carefully. Everything should still be seated like it was before you started the exercise. If not, disconnect the air hose, drain the tire and bump everything in place again.
Ah, you imply something else that is important- Should I do the initial fill with the valve core removed? That way if I see something amiss, I can just flip the air chuck off the tire and it'll drain. If the valve core is installed, I'd have to risk putting body parts over the lock ring to drain it.
 

Mullaney

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Ah, you imply something else that is important- Should I do the initial fill with the valve core removed? That way if I see something amiss, I can just flip the air chuck off the tire and it'll drain. If the valve core is installed, I'd have to risk putting body parts over the lock ring to drain it.
.
That is a really good plan. First inflate and seat everything without the core. OR if the chuck is on the valve stem and you disconnect the hose - it will deflate.

That is the way the tire shop guys do it when they are being taught. (long ago) The other thing is that if you get everything seated and the rims are clean, everything should easily seat in and on the rim.
 

Ajax MD

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Just lay the tire down. Slide it under the hub wheel face up. Use cribbing on wheel face and lower the hub onto the cribbing.

This is actually in the manual
I wondered about doing this. I was curious if the bead on the back of the wheel would fall down in that position and fail to seat. I don't doubt you for a second, but the manual I read said to use a tire cage. (Page 9-9 of the -20). Often, I take things way too literally. Of course there are probably no inflation cages out in the field or during a convoy.

I'll give it a go.
 

simp5782

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I wondered about doing this. I was curious if the bead on the back of the wheel would fall down in that position and fail to seat. I don't doubt you for a second, but the manual I read said to use a tire cage. (Page 9-9 of the -20). Often, I take things way too literally. Of course there are probably no inflation cages out in the field or during a convoy.

I'll give it a go.
You are using a tube. That tube will push the tire bead up
 

Ajax MD

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Ok, I have a bunch of dried out and/or bald NDCC tires on wheels in the backyard. I removed the valve cores awhile ago and let out all the air.
Yesterday, I figured I'd start breaking them down to get rid of the tires and give the good tubes away to neighborhood kids to use as floats in the creek.

I discovered that none of my 4 pry bars will fit in the dang slot in the wheel to pry the lock ring out of the groove. :mad:

I guess I need something like this? Ken-Tool
 

Mullaney

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Ok, I have a bunch of dried out and/or bald NDCC tires on wheels in the backyard. I removed the valve cores awhile ago and let out all the air.
Yesterday, I figured I'd start breaking them down to get rid of the tires and give the good tubes away to neighborhood kids to use as floats in the creek.

I discovered that none of my 4 pry bars will fit in the dang slot in the wheel to pry the lock ring out of the groove. :mad:

I guess I need something like this? Ken-Tool
.
Yes Sir Ajax MD ,

That is indeed the magic tool. When it is dented, scuffed and looks like it has been dragged down the highway behind your truck for several miles - it can be considered "broken in" and has some "character". :cool:
 

gringeltaube

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I also just learned that if I don't break the bead and press the tire down first, that locking ring isn't coming off no matter what I do.
You might have found out already: prying that lockring off isn't so much a problem. But getting the tire bead off of that rusty ring without destroying the tire and eventually the inner tube too, that IS the real challenge!
 
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