Ingersoll Rand Gyro-Flo air compressor, lubrication info wanted.

[jimk]

Greetings,
I just bought an old IG tow behind Mod 125 (circa 1957, 125 cfm, Continental flat head 4) w/Gyro-Flo R-125 air end (vane type). Does anyone here have experience with them? I'm interested in servicing the air-end lube, specifically checking the oil level and amount required. Also, the oil change fill/drain points, the latter I assume is under the separator tank.. It has Dextron now. Apparently the factory recommends switching to their Pro-tech. Thanks. Jim

 

[hankpy]

Lubrication info for IR GR-125 compressor

I have one similar as yours and have used it for over 20 years so I should be able to help. The oil I have used has been a standard hydraulic oil like an AW-46 (depending on your temperature zone, very cold AW-32, very hot AW-6, I am in the Finger Lakes Region of New York State.

The main thing is an anti-foaming oil, make sure it says that. The 5-gal pail should list the uses for the oil, no special brand but a well known brand dose not cost that much. I have bought the oil at TSC Tractor and even at Wal-Mart when they carried brand named oils. I don't think I like the idea of transmission oil, I have never had any problem with my air output over the years of running a 90# jack hammer for driving steel piles and have put many hours on it, but I do maintain it.

The oil level is filled the height of a pipe plug on the hitch side of the oil separator about 1/3 the way up the tank. You fill the oil through the large cap on top of the oil separator on the right of the plug (large pipe wrench time). I use a wire or something handy to slide in the hole to find the height of the oil, and inch or so done is no worry as oil expands when hot.

On the bottom is where you drain out the water if any from time to time, let it run till clear oil if need be, mine dose not accumulate much water.

To change the compressor oil, warm it up, open the large fill cap on top and drain it out the bottom plug or valve, may want to do it twice if you change types of oil (transmission to hydraulic, etc.) There is a large screen inside of the tank that you should check for fillings while the oil is drained and you can clean out the tank as well. I believe behind the bolts on the end of the tank is the screen unit. This should tell you the condition of the vanes, etc., if it has not been done recently before you acquired it.

Just recently retired mine as a backup with a 1991 Davey Compressor Mdl# 13M125RPDQ 125 CFM for fuel economy, and, my engine would want to stall on a hot day only when I was working alone and a couple hundred feet over a steep bank (nice ethanol).

I have never been able to track down my exact model as my data plate was gone when I purchased it over 20 years ago, they made the GR-105 and the GR-125 with the same Continental F162 Flat Head engine and would guess the main difference would be the air pump. Any numbers you may have on the air pump may determine my model. Any manual's would be good too if you locate any. Most of the tuning information I have come from the brass plates on the machine.

I can help you with the air pressure adjustments, idle, engine tune up, and more I am sure just ask.

Thanks, Harold

 

[hankpy]

 

[jimk]

Great info. Thanks for taking the time to post all that. The photo too. I was beginning to think my fenders and lift point might have been added later. I figured that that big front fitting was something important. I just added a 75ft Reelcraft hose reel (found it cheap in Canandaigua BTW) and tried not to block it. Still haven't taken it off but noticed a very painted over data plate on it.

Do you have a tap under the tank? I notice I have just a bung plug. Seems odd they'd have it plugged then specify a regular daily draining at that point.

Did you want photos of my data plates? I have at least 5 large brass ones not including the one on the fill cap.

Any guesses on the HP of the engine? 125cfm seems like a lot of air being made with that little engine. Pretty small compressor too.

Jim
Baldwinsville

 

[hankpy]

No problem, I have not seen many of these in good shape over the years and upgraded to the diesel mainly as I know I can get another diesel from surplus for a backup later on.

The large plug (with glass inset) under the fill height plug in the front center is a gage indicating the oil height I believe. Mine was inoperable so I just check the height with the small plug above depending on use. Under all that paint on the tank data plate you will find the year the tank was made and other info as you can see in my photo (mine is a 1952 tank).

For the drain, I have a pipe elbow, valve and pipe plug for the daily draining they mention to do. I hardly ever have much moisture in mine but it is easy to check with the valve after removing the plug (plug is just for safety in case valve is open inadvertently).

The large plate on the end of the tank held in by 8 bolts or so is where the screen is if I remember right (99% sure).

For HP, taken from a Smoke Stack forum after doing a Google search,
(Paul: A old manual lists a 162 at 58 @3200, Torque 122 @1600. 1800 is in the peak power area. I would guess HP around 40.Tom) seems about what to expect, it will do what ever you want. I run my jackhammer between 85 psi and 95 psi depending on how hard the ground is and it has no problem running all day.

I have data plates (3) on the drivers side front side for pressure settings, (1) on the air tank, (1) on fill plug on tank, (1) under the passenger side front under the valve to charge the system and (1) above near top. Attached are some photos of the data plates below, if you have any other ones not here I would like to see, should be one somewhere for the unit model, year, pump and serial numbers, mine might be there somewhere under the paint if I know where to look.

Starting and stopping: Open charging valve when you start and slowly close to use air, open before you shut off and then turn off engine to prevent engine lock up and oil blowing out of air cleaner.

Original fuel pumps are expensive these days, I installed an in-line electric fuel pump and that cured most of engine stalling I was having at one time as the carburetor seemed to like fuel pressure to it.

Air cleaner is oil bath, easy to maintain, just check from time to time and especially if running in dusty conditions, engine oil should be fine (what I use) or as recommended.

Canandaigua is 20 miles from me, you are about 70 miles, nice looking hose reel.

Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions,
Harold

 

[hankpy]

And, Exhaust manifolds for the Continental F162, which is used in many applications from tractors, welders to equipment.

OEM number f400e502

http://stores.ricksagparts.com/-strse-215/Manifold--MH-22/Detail.bok 129.00 (Located in Ohio, where I bought mine)
http://www.ytmag.com/F400E502_15785.htm 128.00
http://antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/F400e502 136.00
https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/ca...ching=Y&sort=13&cat=15484&minprice=31&show=80 136.00

I was quoted close to 400.00 locally and was told that it was a good deal but I did not speak Dutch.

 

[jimk]

My air pump has a 125CR14898 cast into the top in big #. That 125 matches the R- 125 mod # on the chassis data plate . The x in column on far left. Must be the same as the CFM

 

[hankpy]

Thanks a great deal for that info on the air pump, mine has many coats of paint but I know now where to look, been wondering for over 20 years.

I tried to send some info this morning but may have not gone through, I will resend after this.

 

[hankpy]

I guess a moderator has to review what I sent before, hope there are not duplicates posted.

The exhaust manifold for the F162 engine if needed is:

F400E502 and can be found with a search online for between 130.00-140.00

 

[jimk]

<cut> my engine would want to stall on a hot day only when I was working alone and a couple hundred feet over a steep bank (nice ethanol)<cut>.

Mine too. Cold blooded w/poor throttle response above 1/2 throttle when warm. After going thru the carb and getting no improvement I went back and drilled the main from .040" to .046" and soldered shut all but 2 of the air ports on the top half of the nozzle (there were 8, which by themselves wouldn't be a problem however there is basically no restriction in the air jet before it (lower casting, top, center, forward). I got ideas when I compared it w/another Marvel Schebler carb Al the Pal gave me. That carb had a .044" main, just two small nozzle air holes (top half) and a -very- small hole in the air restriction jet in casting above it. Seems odd that they'd have spec'd such a small main when there is the adj jet in series with it (main needle). Maybe someone put a carb kit in it that had different parts. I've diag. the same thing with my neighbors jeeps once before. Anyways, it starts and runs nice now.

 

[andyh1956]

gyro flo

hey guys- funny reading this as one of my buds wants to sell me his gyro flo. it has had new vanes & oil seperator rebuilt but has been sitting for a few years now. it still cranks & runs good but needs the unloader rebuilt. where do yall get parts for these? thanks
andy

 

[hankpy]

Andy, I have not found any good source for parts for mine in 20 years but mine has not had any major problems, sorry it took so long to respond. Harold

 

[Rover34]

Hello by any chance does anyone of you have a manual or workshop book for the DRF 250 4 wheel trailed version? (i have come across a dR250 but i am not sure if that is the same as the one in question) I am located in Malta, the machine is most likely to be a british import. it has a 2700 series 6 cylinder ford engine.

Any help appreciated. the machine belonged to my late father and wondered if it can be revived (i am worried mostly with compressor parts and system.) i still need to try restart it.. but sadly enough if it is a non runner it will be going for scrap.. i have no use to it or sane reason to run it ... cos its fuel consumption is terrible by modern day standards..

thanks for any help. I can pay for scanned versions. If there is any good soul who can do me such a favour.

joseph (Malta)

 

[hankpy]

Joseph,

There is a manual on Ebay at this time (24.50 + ship) and a quick search found another one online at Agrimanuals.com for 24.44 + ship.

You might want to start a new thread and list your machines info for more attention to your specific machine on this site.

Harold

 

[Rover34]

i am new here i just came in cos of it. i am still doing research.

is there any difference between DRF and DR models? the one on agrimanuals is a DRF250S the one on ebay.com is DR250 ..

joseph

 

[Dylanr77]

Having problem with mine blowing oil out the air breather. Air pressure dropped at the same time from 125psi to 80psi. Any suggestions?

 

[hankpy]

Make sure you use hydraulic oil rated for these type of air compressors. Other oil's (with detergents, etc. and no or little Anti-Foaming agents) will cause foaming and lots of problems spaying all over the place. If you do not know what type of oil was put in or know it is of the wrong type than you will need to change and flush the system (more than once if you cannot get all of the old oil out) to be sure you have the right oil in it.

If you know for sure your oil is rated for the compressor than I do not know what would cause the problem. But the symptom would be similar to any other type of compressor (Vane) like yours and you should be able to find out that way or contacting Ingersol Rand directly.

Harold

 

[Dylanr77]

Thanks. I changed the oil to aw-32 . The oil was burnt up looking and sludged up in bottom of tank. I changed it twice with fresh oil and was going great then blew an oil hose so gotta replace oil and hose then see what I got .

 

[elderjag]

I have a gra-125 and have oil blowing out the intake. were you able to solve your problem changing the oil and if so what did you change it to?

 

[hankpy]

Should start with an AW46, "Made For Vane Compressors", like I mentioned in Post #2, depending on temperature zone. AW32 (thinner oil) for colder temperatures, AW48 (thicker oil) oil for warmer temperatures. Off course, if the vanes are worn, then a thicker oil would help in building pressure and flow rate. Just like in an internal combustion engine.

Harold