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Injection pump won't move when turning crank.

juanprado

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I sold parts for 20 years in another lifetime. Can't ever recall that ball o wax or anyone telling me that across the counter.

Closest I recall was a jello like nonsense when red dexcool came out and was being mixed with good ole green. They did not play well together when introduced and folks were unaware.

I could see sand from casting not being all removed but not aware of wax being used to cast?
 

springer1981

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Whoever designed this radiator shroud should be taken out back. Impossible to get drivers side screws in.
Did you install the radiator and shroud as an assembled unit? When I did mine I unbolted the power steering cooler and flipped it out of the way without disconnecting the lines. Then I removed the transmission lines on the passenger side and again flipped the cooler out of the way without disconnecting the engine oil cooler lines. Then I remove the radiator and shroud assembled. Maybe that will help someday.
 
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Mattguy

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Did you install the radiator and shroud as an assembled unit? When I did mine I unbolted the power steering cooler and flipped it out of the way without disconnecting the lines. Then I removed the transmission lines on the passenger side and again flipped the cooler out of the way without disconnecting the engine oil cooler lines. Then I remove the radiator and shroud assembled. Maybe that will help someday.
If it's assembled together it wont get past the fan blades.
 

TNDRIVER

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Thank you for all the support. I'll continuing uploading pictures as I go and make sure I get a video of the first start. Cross my fingers. I'm still looking for a diagram of the back of the IP and how the lines connect to it I didn't keep track.
Look at the parts list for the tube placement.
If it's assembled together it wont get past the fan blades.
Mine went in a little high and dropped down in front of the fan....... the studs on the radiator slipped in under the cushions on the lift brackets. If I understand whats going on here????
 

Mattguy

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Back together! Starts but only runs for a few seconds, sometimes will run for 15 secs and dies. I purged air from fuel filter, and even tried compressed air in tank and it would help.

Are there check valves that need to get removed?20220219_215829.jpeg
 

Mogman

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Problems could be check valves, plugged fuel sock in tank, bad lift pump and of course you already changed the filter.
Many advocate removing the check valves right away on all HMMWVs so not a bad place to start, it could also be a plugged return which has one of those check valves in it.
You could remove the return line and put a short hose to a small container to test the return, or blow some air into the return line and see if it is clear.
Edit be careful if you blow air into the return to not over pressure it and blow a line off somewhere.
 
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Mattguy

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Part of the problems were the two connectors on ip pump not making contact. They must have gotten bent when pulled. Now running for 30secs and then dying. I put 5 gallons of diesel in it, I'm wondering if it's not enough. 20220220_143444.jpeg
 

Mogman

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I hate to keep hounding on this but are you sure the return is clear, maybe I just have return on the brain but if after a couple minutes it starts and then dies in the same manor every time it is tried that sounds like a plugged return, the IP does not like a pressured buildup in the governor housing.
Curious, did you use the return line fitting (check valve) out of the old pump? there is a check valve in it that is very prone to clogging.
EDIT this is not the check valve by the tank that most are talking about.
 

Mogman

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Of course you should have a volt meter or test light connected to the IP run connector to make sure that signal is not dropping out.
 

Mattguy

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If I blow into injection pump return line there's a lot of resistance and then I can hear bubbles in the tank. Should it be easy to blow in the return line?
 

Mogman

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If I blow into injection pump return line there's a lot of resistance and then I can hear bubbles in the tank. Should it be easy to blow in the return line?
I would think not have you removed the two check valves in front of the tank?
 

Mogman

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It common practice to remove BOTH of the check valves in front of the tank as they cause problems. that bleeder will only have pressure while it is running, do you know if you truck has a mechanical or electric lift pump?
 

Mattguy

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It common practice to remove BOTH of the check valves in front of the tank as they cause problems. that bleeder will only have pressure while it is running, do you know if you truck has a mechanical or electric lift pump?
It's a 2003 m1123. I'm looking for diagrams of fuel system. It does have a mechanical fuel pump. Can check valves be accessed from plate above tank? Or do I have to drop tank?
 
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