• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Injection pump......

4bogginchevys

New member
623
1
0
Location
rathdrum idaho
I pulled an injection pump off of a 83 6.2 civy blazer at the local junkyard. Never having done this I was in for a bit of a surprise how time consuming it was going to be. when I started it was complete as if the truck had just left the road, probably why it took an hour and a half to get it off! My question: I was gentle as could be to slide it rearward off of the studs, and some prying was required....more than I think would be normal. When it was pulled off, looking at the hole in the injection pump that would normally be against the back of the timing cover, I can see the bearings the the shaft coming out of the timing cover rearward would ride on......but the shaft stayed in the timing cover and didn't want to come out....it looked like it came apart right to me but since i've never done a removal of one, I dont really know what i'm looking at. basically i'm trying to make sure I didn't break a cardinal rule, of disassembly and miss some hidden retainer clip somewhere and that the pump I got is not missing something(shaft that comes out of timing cover). Also, are there any cover plates that can be removed to check the condition of the pump? It still has pink marking goo on all of the critical adjustment points, is that factory or does it indicate it been tweaked/ rebuilt? Thanks in advance:-D
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
There are three bolts that attach the shaft of the injection pump to the engine gear. To access, you need to remove the oil filler tube. Carefully remove the three bolts without dropping them down into the engine. Once these are removed and the mounting nuts are removed the IP should slide out.

See the attached diagram.
 

Attachments

acmunro

Member
532
4
18
Location
Reynoldsville,PA
I'm not sure if it's something you could repair yourself - I have a couple old pumps that are bad lying around that I am going to tear apart - Just never got around to it.
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,118
67
48
Location
Maine USA
A reman can be had for $325, and they have all the upgrades. For the amount of work involved to change one(done 5 myself)I would not take the chance on a used one. There are new anti drain back valves etc that make the new one much better. Must have been one **** of a pry session getting that out!
 

4bogginchevys

New member
623
1
0
Location
rathdrum idaho
small screw driver!

A reman can be had for $325, and they have all the upgrades. For the amount of work involved to change one(done 5 myself)I would not take the chance on a used one. There are new anti drain back valves etc that make the new one much better. Must have been one **** of a pry session getting that out!
I actually didn't have to pry toooo bad....do you have a part # for good/built IP, and source? I only paid 13.00 for this one used. ok ok, I did commit a cardinal sin......next time I will ask first!:-D
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Hi Mark,
I'm in need of having my 1009's injection pump resealed because the throttle shaft seals are shot and the leak is getting worse. I've been contemplating finding a local shop to do the work, but that looks like a really good price for a reman'ed pump. How well did they handle the shipping of the pump and refund of the core charge?

Later,
Joe
 

HardCorps79

New member
281
3
0
Location
Kansas City, MO
Hi Mark,
I'm in need of having my 1009's injection pump resealed because the throttle shaft seals are shot and the leak is getting worse. I've been contemplating finding a local shop to do the work, but that looks like a really good price for a reman'ed pump. How well did they handle the shipping of the pump and refund of the core charge?

Later,
Joe
How old is the pump? The throttle shaft seals are really not that hard to change, but chances are if they are going other stuff in there is going, too. Throttle shaft seals are only a couple of bucks from Stanadyne, and if i recall correctly, there's some place in Oregon that sells them online. You have to take off the intake manifold to be able to slide the throttle shaft out, but you don't have to mess with removing the pump. Should hold you for a while if you don't want to do the rebuild.

A Stanadyne shop will do a complete "factory" rebuild for around $400. So anything less than that from a reputable company would be a good deal, in my book. I've heard good things about kr services (the listing on ebay).
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
As far as I know, the pump is the original 1985 pump. It leaks like a sieve when it's off to the point that it's hard starting in the morning. The quote I got from a local shop was $5-550 so if the consensus is that kr is a good vendor, I'll probably be ordering a pump from them after the new year.

Later,
Joe
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,118
67
48
Location
Maine USA
It was a quick turn around time, probably a week. The pump I got looked factory new and is the best performing rebuild I have gotten to date.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks