Inner Bearing Ain't Coming Off

[DeuceIsLoose]

Hi Gents,

I had a hub leaking from the inner side a couple weeks ago. I ordered the seals from OD Iron and read up on how to replace here.

Everything was going good until I tried to take the inner bearing off to pack it. It's not budging for nothing. I checked the other threads and no one mentioned them being stuck. The bearing looks like it's in good shape and the seal looks a little disformed--probably why it was leaking.

Anyway, anyone else had a stuck inner bearing? Is there a trick to getting it off? My dad said I need a bearing puller--anyone else concur?

Thanks tons and attached are some pics.

Donnie

 

[Westech]

May have to tap it from the back side. Get something behind the seal and give it a smack. It should pop right off. I have had a couple that "stick" like that too. Not a problem most of the time.

 

[Avn-Tech]

Duceisloose,

You could get a bearing press from Harbor freight. Bolt it around the axel behind the bearing, and use a puller to apply pressure to bearing press, to remove the bearing.

Good Luck
Avn-Tech

 

[shootiniron]

Try heating the bearing gently with a rosebud,has worked for me in the past.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Thanks guys--I've given up for tonight and am planning on going to Harbor Freight tomorrow.

So I guess this is typical? You all sure heating it up won't mess it up? I'm also afraid heating it up will melt the outer piece of the inner seal and make a big mess.

Thanks for all the thoughts, and if you have anymore please let me know.

Donnie

 

[m16ty]

I've had them stick before. Always managed to whip them off with a hammer. You will destroy the seal though.

 

[gringeltaube]

I've had them stick before. Always managed to whip them off with a hammer. You will destroy the seal though.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

What exactly do you hit with the hammer? Can I bang on the bearing itself? I didn't think it could handle that much abuse.

 

[ironhorsethegeneral]

I've used screw drivers, one on each side. Try to apply even pressure when pushing back to push bearing forward. If you want to save the bearing don't hit it with a hammer.

 

[JDToumanian]

I've carefully used two screwdrivers as prybars, like Chris above, but when the bearing gets stubborn and I get mad, out comes the slide hammer.... The seal will be destroyed with this method, but you're replacing it anyway, right? I use the slide hammer, with only one jaw on it, to pull on the metal backing plate of the seal, and it will take the bearing off with it. You may need to pull in several different places along the seal before the whole thing will pop off.

 

[Barrman]

A bearing press is the best/correct way. Another tool that works is a cv joint puller slide hammer. Here is the first picture I could find after a fast search:
KD Tools Inner CV Joint Pullers for Slide Hammer

As pointed out above. Nothing is holding the inner race on. It just likes being there. Just about any non destructive way you can persuade it to leave is ok.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Hey Gents,

Well... I got them off. After banging on it and heat and trying to fulcrum with a long srewdriver failed, I finally got it by wedging my wonderbar in between the seal and bearing. I probably spent 20 minutes on it. She did not want to budge. But then the inner seal was even harder to get off. I ended up lighting the rubber on fire trying to heat it up. That didn't work so I kept beating on it and that didn't work, so I finally got out my hacksaw and cut most of it, which somehow loosened it. Altogether I spent a good 45 minutes on it. Either there's a trick I don't know or it was on there real good.

After all that, I'm wondering how hard it is going to be to get the inner seal and bearing back on. I'm planning on putting lots of grease on the hub--anyone got any other tips? Also, I was checking out the outer seal. I guess that nub on the inside goes into the channel where the cork is supposed to be? I'm planning on using black Permatex in leiu of the cork--that sound ok?

Thanks again--I'm learning and will be able to do it all much quicker next time.

Donnie

 

[m16ty]

What exactly do you hit with the hammer? Can I bang on the bearing itself? I didn't think it could handle that much abuse.

The race can take quite a bit of pounding. The cage cannot.

And yes, you can use Permatex in place of the cork.

 

[Matt1970M35A]

I set bearings on a work light to heat heat them up. This makes the bearing expand a little making it easier to put on. If you could cool the hub as well it will work even better.
Good luck

 

[Jones]

If it was necessary to heat or hammer on the bearing; it's a good idea to replace it. Like m16ty says; the cage and rollers don't like being mistreated.

In addition to rolling the bearing in your hand to see if you can feel any rough spots; it's a good idea to look at the rollers (or balls). Are they shiny? If so, you're probably OK to re-use the bearing-- but, if the rollers, or balls, or the surface they contact, has a frosted look to it, get new bearings. The frosted look means you're through the hardened surface and you'll be looking at increase wear rates or bearing failure sooner or later.

After you clean up the surfaces, the seal and bearing should go on fairly easy. I use a piece of pipe and a dead blow hammer. That way you're pushing on the entire circumference at once; instead of first one point then another... which is a good way to tweak the seal out of shape.

The seal needs to seat tight to... well, seal.
The bearing should be a light tap fit in order to keep from spinning on the axle/spindle/whatever.

 

[bentwrench]

Iv'e used 2 large heel bars prying evanly or when I get mad and use a large nail crow bar at least 3 foot long be careful to put curved end behind race and don't bend bearing cage

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Hi Gents,

I'm on my way to getting everything back together after a quick vacation. I've got two questions now:

1.) When should I put the permatex in the cork channel. If I put it in early, I won't be able to slide the outer seal and lock nut into the grove. If I do it after I put them both on, then I can't imagine the permatex filling up the channel very well, because the seal and nut will be blocking it. Is this a paradox? What am I missing?

2.) I've read in the past threads about how tight to get the two nuts and I am a little confused. Can you give a newbie a good rule of thumb on the tightness? I test tightened them tonight and I think they're too tight.

Thanks mucho.

Donnie

 

[m16ty]

I always put on the outer seal and put the permatex in the keyway where the seal rest. That's where you're trying to stop the oil. Try and keep as much grease off of this area as you can so the permatex will stick.

I tighten the inner nut by feel. It's kind of hard to tell you how much is enough. It's just something I've learned over the years. You want to feel some resistance but not too much. I will say that's it's better to be a little loose than too tight. The outer nut has a torque spec but I don't have the manual in front of me. I just always tighten it about as tight as I can get it with a breaker bar as this is what holds everything from backing off.

 

[DeuceIsLoose]

Thanks m16ty--I appreciate the wisdom.

 

[pittdog]

ok guy!.... Heat it up.. Get a plow torch..or one of those lil propane tanks ... Heat the bearin up.... It'll expand .. Gota move fast! Start tappin it off opisit directions .... She'll come off !... Pittdog... Ret... Usa... 52-d... 63-b ... Glad to help guys ! Hoooah !