inner lug nut removal

[Michael]

I though I would post my solution to stuck inner lug nuts. I used the geared lug nut wrench on the outer nuts with great success. That thing sure takes the work out of that job. My trouble started when I got to the inner tire. Nothing was working. I couldn't figer out how to use the torque multiplier wrench either. I came back to the list and did a search and still didn't find an answer. This is what I finally came up with. Probably not the safest solution, but it works. I used a pipe wrench to stabilize the outer part forcing the inner part to turn. Now I need a better cheater bar. The tire tool I was using was barely up to the job.

 

[98hd]

After getting my first truck, I invested in a cheap harbor freight 1" impact and socket set. Works off the trucks air just fine, but have to wait for the tank to refill often. Makes lug nuts a breeze.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I have one of those piece of crap HF 1" impacts. It really is a huge help.

 

[DanMartin]

They work well, but you need 1/2" hose and a real compressor to get the most out of them. Also consider the larger 1/2" couplers for all of the connections. Once I did all of that, I am sure that if it didn't break the nut/cap loose, it would at least break off the stud.

When using said impact to put *on* the nuts/caps, make sure to use a torque stick set to the proper torque values. Makes for quick changes that way.

 

[Michael]

I can verify that a 3/4 impact with a 3/8 in hose will not work off the truck air. The threads weren't rusty either. They looked like they had been painted.

 

[madsam]

I don't have a pic, but I have a breaker bar that is 1 inch steel diameter and then I use a 4 foot pipe and a lug socket I bought off someone here. If I put all my weight on the end of that, things start turning.

 

[dm22630]

I can verify that a 3/4 impact with a 3/8 in hose will not work off the truck air. The threads weren't rusty either. They looked like they had been painted.

I have a 1/2" ingersol-rand impact gun from Lowes w/3/8 air fittings & I run it off my deuces!

I also have a air-bottle jack that I run off the deuce.

I can change a tire (by myself) in less than 15 minutes......this includes getting all the tools out, dropping the spare, replacing the tire, putting the flat up in the spare holder, and putting the tools away.

*** you MUST pull the throttle out to 1500 rpms, hook into the EMERGENCY air in the rear (turn the shutoff valve on) & let the deuce fully air up before you use an impact gun ***

 

[Michael]

Well, some nuts are screwed tighter than others.

The main point of my post was to demonstrate the little trick I learned on using the geared lug nut remover. A secondary point might be that whatever method you plan to use, it would pay to try it at home to see if it works and that you have everything you need. I would have hated to have had a flat on the road only to find I didn't bring the pipe wrench with me.

 

[Recovry4x4]

A little rehash of deuce air for tools. Air storage on the deuce is minute. I have taken a portable air storage tank and piped 1/2" air hose from that to run the big impact. The tank is fed via a regular 3/8 like. It increases your storage enough and presents enough air flow to run the 1" impact off the deuce. You will have to wait to build up air sometimes but I can usually get 6 lugnuts off before having to wait.

 

[atankersdad]

Found that 4 Redbulls fed to my two 6' 200+lb sons do a fine job of attacking lug nuts, inner and outer. One son even thinks that using the 3/8" drive is overkill. Thank God for big strong sons, hopped up on Redbull!!!

 

[powerhouseduece]

Found that 4 Redbulls fed to my two 6' 200+lb sons do a fine job of attacking lug nuts, inner and outer. One son even thinks that using the 3/8" drive is overkill. Thank God for big strong sons, hopped up on Redbull!!!

Dad, we keep telling you this is no BMW.

 

[Jake0147]

Ken Tool number TR52 is a square adapter that will allow you to use the gear wrench and the reaction bar just as you would for a front wheel.
Mine came in a kit with TR55 as well.

http://www.kentool.com/catalogs/KTCatalog_Wrenches.pdf

 

[Recovry4x4]

So I need to add this item and a reaction bar to fully utilize my geared wrench? My simple mind can't figure out how it works.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah more info! What/how does the tr52/55 do?

 

[Recovry4x4]

I think I figured it out Gimp. On the rears the inner shaft locks to the thimble and the outer parts acts as a gear and travels around the sun gear. Using the reaction bar you can still lock that inner shaft but you lock it to the groud via the reaction bar rather than the thimble. The TR52 simply goes into the outer shaft and attaches to the thimble and you use the reaction bar so that the outer travels around the sun gear. Clear as mud right?

 

[DUECE-COUPE]

All you need is a two ended lug wrench, the bar that goes with it, a jack stand to hold the end up with, and a bumper jack minus the jack or the base. Place lug wrench on lug, place jack stand under outer end of lug wrench, align bar so you can hit it, and swing bumper jack with all you have on bar. Presto, loose nut! I do it all the time and the only air i need, is the breath i get to catch afteri finish. It also works well to tighten the lugs!

 

[Michael]

Ken Tool number TR52 is a square adapter that will allow you to use the gear wrench and the reaction bar just as you would for a front wheel.
Mine came in a kit with TR55 as well.

http://www.kentool.com/catalogs/KTCatalog_Wrenches.pdf

That would be a better way to use the tool, but where do you buy it and what does it cost. I tried the where to buy link on the Kentool main page, but the first couple of ones I tried didn't have much of a web site or didn't sell to the general public and I didn't feel like going through them all to find one that sold online.

ODIRON or one of the other dealers should become a Kentool dealer. They sell repair parts to.

 

[CGarbee]

I'm a big fan of my 1" wrench for when I'm at the shop and my 6' "cheater bar" for when I'm on the road...
I don't have one of the geared wreches, but a buddy does and I never could figure out how it worked until I saw the PS Magazine page on it that is located on the old site at:
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index...._lug_nuts&name=gallery&include=view_photo.php

 

[Jake0147]

I got them from tooldiscounter.com

For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction. So for a gear reduction wrench to work, something has to hold it (or a portion of it) from counter-rotating when you turn the bar.

On a rear wheel (as is explained in the link to PS magazine) the inner part of the wrench locks to the inner wheel nut. When you turn the bar, the gear remains stationary because the inner wheel nut does not move (hopefully, but if it moves, it tightens, opposite of the outer nut).

On a front wheel this is not an option, as there is no square inner nut. The solution is to install the large bar in the large hole in the center (square drive) part of the wrench. The long bar wedges against the ground to hold the inner part of the wrench from counter rotating, and allowing the outer part of the wrench to remove the front wheel nut.

Moving back to the rear wheels (which are now the inner wheels only), the adapter simply slides into the outer part of the wrench, adapting it to the square inner lug nut.

 

[Michael]

Their search function sucks. Here are the links:

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KEN34543

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KEN34545

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KEN34547