w3azel
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I got 10mpg interstate. Bobbed truck, 14.00 tires, 13,400lb truck, lock-out on front axle 55mph from NC to MO.
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Well if you're going to be picky, yes I mean "hand throttle." Technically it's a diesel pedal and not a gas pedal, too, lol. I know what the FDC does. I'm asking if anyone's tried meth both ways. Obviously it doesn't know what's in the intake manifold. That's the problem. Maybe the key is to disable the FDC and adjust your timing manually for the meth. That's what I had to do on my OM617. I know nothing about adjusting timing on an LTD-465, though.I need to go through a system trace on these engine to see if you can just cap the coolant lines. Those might be necessary for coolant flow, also these engines don't have an aftercooler so the intake air might be cooled by the coolant flowing around it. As far as the FDC, it does not go off of engine performance, it only adjusts off of the fuel density flowing through it. It has no idea what is being injected into the intake of the engine. Another issue is these trucks do not have a cruise control so I hope your not reffering to the hand throttle control as a cruise control.
Screaming's an understatement. But, diesel's are most efficient at full load; that doesn't mean they get the best mpg, that means they are converting fuel into useable work the best. That concept may be hard for you to wrap your head around, but you can google it if you want. The cummins are rated for 3200 RPM, and any 4-stroke diesel engine, when held at a constant RPM, will last indefinitely. Fluctuation of engine speed is what kills.Man you have that multi screaming. Best of luck with that.
Wow bro. I'm fully aware of what a cummins can handle. Your not the first person to come to this forum with wild dreams of making a multifuel a power house and in the end they either never succeed or if they do all of their efforts gained marginal benefits.Screaming's an understatement. But, diesel's are most efficient at full load; that doesn't mean they get the best mpg, that means they are converting fuel into useable work the best. That concept may be hard for you to wrap your head around, but you can google it if you want. The cummins are rated for 3200 RPM, and any 4-stroke diesel engine, when held at a constant RPM, will last indefinitely. Fluctuation of engine speed is what kills.
I'm not one with wild dreams of making a multifuel a power house period. I have a 600hp Duramax for my power cravings. Just doing what the OP was doing when he started this thread. Trying to reduce EGT's and convert black smoke to useable energy.Your not the first person to come to this forum with wild dreams of making a multifuel a power house
Ok I get that. I also understand what the intended idea behind deleting the water flow around the intake is. Here's the point I was making. If your worried about intake air getting warmed up by 180 degree water then how is it going to be better if you expose the intake air to 1200+ degree exhaust heat?I'm not one with wild dreams of making a multifuel a power house period. I have a 600hp Duramax for my power cravings. Just doing what the OP was doing when he started this thread. Trying to reduce EGT's and convert black smoke to useable energy.
4" isn't rated for that pressure UNLESS you buy the heavy wall stuff.For the tank you could use 4 inch pvc with some fittings tapped into a hard cap. It would hold the pressure, and you could make it any size you want.
Depending on your truck and how you're coming up with that number (crank vs rear wheel), that's nothing more than bolt ons for 600hp crank power.I'm not one with wild dreams of making a multifuel a power house period. I have a 600hp Duramax for my power cravings. Just doing what the OP was doing when he started this thread. Trying to reduce EGT's and convert black smoke to useable energy.
Your absolutely right, but by the time you've done it, the engine wouldn't respond well to multifuel use anymore, and would still be overly big and heavy. If you have the need for speed and dont care from multifuel capable, a 6bt will make you VERY happy.Depending on your truck and how you're coming up with that number (crank vs rear wheel), that's nothing more than bolt ons for 600hp crank power.
I had a VP44'ed 24v cummins that put down 498rwhp. Crank would be near 600. And to do that, I had studs, valve springs, injectors, turbo, exhaust, intake, fuel system upgrades, bla bla bla....
Spinning a multifuel up to 3200rpm is dancing with the devil. These engines were really designed for 2400rpm. And they never balanced these engines.
I'm not saying it can't be done. I'm just saying that there's a LOT more involved in it than just tossing more fuel, air, and meth to make power like you would with a modern diesel.
I'm not a expert. But I've thought this over before and posted it in the past. To build a multifuel that makes a sustained 250+ hp you'd need the following:
Balanced bottom end, rods peened, upgraded rod and main fasteners, main girdled.
Shaved pistons to drop a CR point or two.
Gapped rings.
Worked heads with springs, also fire ring'ed.
Better studs with a MLS style gasket.
Custom grind on the cam, figure out a upgraded pushrod to swap to.
Custom intake manifold to remove the coolant flowing around the intake runners.
Two port LDS injectors that have been EDM'd to a larger opening along with adjusting pop-off pressure.
Modern turbo with a better map suited to the CFM you get the heads to flow. Intercooler would also be worthwhile.
Conversion to a spin on oil filter setup.
Radiator upgrade.
LDS pump would also be a worthwhile addition.
I'm pretty certain everything I've outlined could make a safe 250-300hp multifuel. The problem is the cost. Just thinking it over, you'd have $6K at least in a setup like that. (Lots of cost in machine work and fasteners, as there's no shop setup or has done any machine work I've mentioned and no off the shelf upgrade fasteners.)
It'd be cheaper and just about as effective to get a p-pumped 5.9 12v cummins and swap. While you couldn't get away with the high oil concentrations some run in them. You could easily still run WMO/WVO blends with the p-pump. You'd also be able to rev much higher and get 300hp out of it just tinkering with the pump and a set of injectors.
I've got two multifuel trucks here. And a spare engine laying around. While it'd be an interesting experiment, the end doesn't justify the means to me. So I just live with what the multifuels are. I just turn them up a little and drive by my gauges and enjoy what they are.
Actually the multifuel ability comes from the head design and piston cup. You can see in the bottom picture the unique design of the intake runner. It causes the air to swirl helping mix the fuel with air for better combustion.Your absolutely right, but by the time you've done it, the engine wouldn't respond well to multifuel use anymore, and would still be overly big and heavy. If you have the need for speed and dont care from multifuel capable, a 6bt will make you VERY happy.
Well if you're going to be picky, yes I mean "hand throttle." Technically it's a diesel pedal and not a gas pedal, too, lol. I know what the FDC does. I'm asking if anyone's tried meth both ways. Obviously it doesn't know what's in the intake manifold. That's the problem. Maybe the key is to disable the FDC and adjust your timing manually for the meth. That's what I had to do on my OM617. I know nothing about adjusting timing on an LTD-465, though.
@welldigger - RPM's are about 2600-2700. Hard to tell when the tach is moving like a windshield wiper. Haven't turned up the throttle stop yet. My other deuce is turned up to allow for 3200 RPM so it can get up to 75mph. The reason an intercooler doesn't work on these trucks very well is because of the coolant in the intake manifold. It's going to heat the air back up. I want to block coolant from the intake manifold and run an intercooler. You don't have to add water every 2 hours of driving, and egt's would drop significantly.
Actually patracy they did make a 20:1 compression multifuel engine. So having the pistons shaved would not effect the engines ability to burn all that oil anyway.The only thing I mentioned that would affect it would be shaving the pistons to lower the CR from 22:1 to about 20:1. Alternatively the same could be achieved in a custom thicker HG. Running gasoline and such might be affected. But waste oils wouldn't. The upswing would be the ability to run higher boost levels.
That is similar to what I use for my greenhouse misting system, used to humidify incoming air without wasting water. For the pressure tank, I used a water heater expansion tank, a bladder style similar to a well pressure tank but much smaller. $50 from home improvement stores. Adjustable air charge too. Uses 3/4 inch female pipe thread.Oh... and thanks for the pump tip! I just picked up this http://www.pumpagents.com/pdf/ShurfloPumps/8000-853-238.pdf
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