Installed remote brake reservoir today

[dabtl]

With the end of ice and snow season, I HOPE, around here I got the deuces out for some exercise and to check the fluids. It is so much easier with the remote brake fluid reservoir. Much easier. After a year of use, the air seems to be out of the system and the level is steady in the reservoir now for some time.

This has to be as important a modification to the deuce as the spin on oil and fuel filters. Just because it makes a really boring and time consuming task so easy!

 

[Maverick1701]

I think this is going to the top of my project list...cheap, easy and it makes life so much easier

 

[AceHigh]

It is a great mod. I check the fluid every time I start out, and it is real easy to see if there is any gradual drop so I know ahead a cylinder is beginning to leak.

 

[rrrr]

Got my remote res installed. Decided to put it in the engine bay against the firewall. I can open the side panel on the drivers side for a quick look. Definitly a great and inexpensive safety upgrade.

 

[Smokinyoda]

So what is everyone using to seal the threads on the master cylinder fittings? I have tried teflon tape and a teflon based paste, and it still leaks over time. This silicone brake fluid seems to leak past everything.

 

[oddshot]

I'm gonna gut the master cylinder from my (sacrificial) M105 Trailer ... swap the top from it onto my Deuce's master ... which will give me a bigger fill hole ... and use the copper tubing from said trailer's air lines to link the two.

Copper makes a real nice single flair ... that will be all I need for a no pressure line.

It will mount real nice on the firewall ... and when done ... I won't even have to paint it.

I think it will give a real nice vintage look under the hood too.

Pics when done!

oddshot

 

[two.fiveM35]

Subscribed

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Had all the parts for months. Now have to decide where to mount it and how to adapt my power bleeder at the same time.

 

[airmech3839]

This is a great idea!!! I believe I will be installing this mod!!

 

[Bill W]

So what is everyone using to seal the threads on the master cylinder fittings? I have tried teflon tape and a teflon based paste, and it still leaks over time. This silicone brake fluid seems to leak past everything.

I used a 1 1/4" squared shoulder O-ring that I got in the plumbing section at the hardware store. I soaked it in silicone for 3 months and it was fine so I used it being I did not like the way a regular ( round) o-ring fit on the cap., Its been several months now and no leaks.

Its a neophreme 1 1/4 slip gasket that usually goes to the p-trap on the sink drain pipe, mine came in a 2 pack, it fit the cap like it was made for it

 

[Smokinyoda]

I used a 1 1/4" squared shoulder O-ring that I got in the plumbing section at the hardware store. I soaked it in silicone for 3 months and it was fine so I used it being I did not like the way a regular ( round) o-ring fit on the cap., Its been several months now and no leaks.

Its a neophreme 1 1/4 slip gasket that usually goes to the p-trap on the sink drain pipe, mine came in a 2 pack, it fit the cap like it was made for it

Thanks Bill, will pick one up today. Was about to try rtv or some other gasket sealer but will try this first.

 

[bones1]

I put a tee in the master cylinder cap and re attached the original vent metal line. The other side goes to my new remote reservoir. I see that that small original vent line attaches to a large tee and then goes to the booster. My questions are:

1. Is there vacuum or pressure or nothing in that small vent line?.
2. Am I going to pressurize the remote reservoir? I don't think that would be good.
3. Do I need that OE small vent for the brakes to function properly?.
4. If not, why is it there, what does it do?.
5. Do you foresee any problems using this tee setup?.
6. Except for the tee fitting, I am using the same parts as Ferro in post #1.
7. I have not put fluid in this setup yet because I am not sure it will function properly, hence the questions.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

That vent runs to other components- I don't think you want to fill them up with silicon fluid. A remote reservoir is vented already- so you won't need to vent the MC at the MC.

The MC does need to be 'vented'. But only to prevent a vacuum from forming. If you are using the same parts, it will work just fine doing it just like I did it.

If you fill the air space in the airpack with fluid, the brakes won't apply all the way, as the piston can't move full stroke.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I put a tee in the master cylinder cap and re attached the original vent metal line. The other side goes to my new remote reservoir. I see that that small original vent line attaches to a large tee and then goes to the booster. My questions are:

1. Is there vacuum or pressure or nothing in that small vent line?.
2. Am I going to pressurize the remote reservoir? I don't think that would be good.
3. Do I need that OE small vent for the brakes to function properly?.
4. If not, why is it there, what does it do?.
5. Do you foresee any problems using this tee setup?.
6. Thanks for any input.

1. the vent line is just that - it allows to equalize pressure between the inside of the MC and the ambient air.
2. no, but you may allow fluid from your new reservoir to travel along the vent line when the MC is full. The cap on your new reservoir is vented, so any additional venting at a lower level is not helping and may be counterproductive.
3. NO
4. to ensure you do not build a vacuum or pressure in the MC due to fluid level and ambient air pressure changes; many MCs received a ''mushroom vent'' similar to those on the axle housings as an alternative to the vent line. These vents sort of work, but can allow a vacuum to build, which leads to brake malfunction (and should be removed).
5. Yes. You cannot use a pressure bleeder directly on your new reservoir (would blow right out by the vent line) and, as I said above, I would be concerned about expensive silicon brake fluid travelling along the vent line to places no brake fluid should ever aspire to go.

I would remove the T and leave the vent line disconnected. No harm in doing that. Ensure that the cap on your new reservoir is vented. All you need is an airtight connection between the MC cap and the new reservoir.

 

[bones1]

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I will now remove the tee arrangement and plug the original vent line at the original tee on the frame with an inverted flare plug. I will then procede as Ferro did on his install.
Thanks again for the input.
Once again I over engineered a project, I have to watch that.