Boilermkr84
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Ok I recently posted a thread about doing a lift for the M1008 and was referred to the ruff country 4" lift. I purchased the 3/4 ton one due to the fact that they did not make a specific lift that I could find for the m1008. This thread will show the hurdles I had to overcome since some parts of the lift would not work.
At this time I'm not completely done with the lift but most of the dirty work has been done.
So I pulled my m1008 in the shop took the tires, brake lines off and steering arm. I dropped the u bolts necessary to free the axle from the springs. When I went to unbolt the factory springs both bolts in the front shackle were seized in the bushing and would not budge. After 10 or so sawzall blades I cut thru the bolts and disguarded the old springs. Next I had to ream out the hole on the rear shackle to a 9/16 hole were the new spring has the same bushing on both sides (were the old springs had a smaller bushing in the back) After I reamed out the rear shackles, I placed the new leaf springs in place and hand tightened the bolts. ( the extra slack will help you line eveything up before you tighten down)
Next you will raise the axle in to the correct position and get your u bolts started on the driver side.(passenger side is different). Loosen you sway bar bolts near the front shackle to give you a little play in order to line the notches up were you can tighten your ubolts to a snug position. At this point the axle should be in the correct place, the you would go to the passenger side and repeat. ( you may have to play with it a little bit b/c lining this side up could be a little tricky) One you get the passenger side in the correct position, tighten your bolts and ubolts then go to the driver side and tighten them.
You should be able to figure out the rest.
Passenger side of axle:
Ok Now for the parts side of it. You will have to get longer bolts for the passenger is leaf spring, Its a half a inch taller and the old ones wont work. Any machine shop should be able to make that u bolt longer and the bolts are standard size but with a tapered end, they just need to be 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer!
Driver Side Axle:
The new ubolts for the rear(in the ruff country kit) will work on the driver side leaf spring. But if you're planning on raising the rear to you wil lbe a few u bolts short.
Steering arm:
The old one defiantly wont work, and the little for bolt doflicky has a bad reputation of sheering the bolts. The dana 44 drag link for a 4 to 6 " lift will work. It looks like a S.
Brake lines:
the factory ones are a little short, I m hoping to undo the clips from the frame to give me an extra inch or two of play
Pictures will follow, Note I only did the front b/c I wanted the heavy duty spring in the rear and I like that sway back stance on the truck. I have a set of military 36" inch tires just waiting to go on.
Basically I like the steering arm altercations, bleeding the break lines and installin the new shocks.
Any questions just ask.
Grade 7 or 8 bolts only!
All together I have around 500 bucks in the lift.
At this time I'm not completely done with the lift but most of the dirty work has been done.
So I pulled my m1008 in the shop took the tires, brake lines off and steering arm. I dropped the u bolts necessary to free the axle from the springs. When I went to unbolt the factory springs both bolts in the front shackle were seized in the bushing and would not budge. After 10 or so sawzall blades I cut thru the bolts and disguarded the old springs. Next I had to ream out the hole on the rear shackle to a 9/16 hole were the new spring has the same bushing on both sides (were the old springs had a smaller bushing in the back) After I reamed out the rear shackles, I placed the new leaf springs in place and hand tightened the bolts. ( the extra slack will help you line eveything up before you tighten down)
Next you will raise the axle in to the correct position and get your u bolts started on the driver side.(passenger side is different). Loosen you sway bar bolts near the front shackle to give you a little play in order to line the notches up were you can tighten your ubolts to a snug position. At this point the axle should be in the correct place, the you would go to the passenger side and repeat. ( you may have to play with it a little bit b/c lining this side up could be a little tricky) One you get the passenger side in the correct position, tighten your bolts and ubolts then go to the driver side and tighten them.
You should be able to figure out the rest.
Passenger side of axle:
Ok Now for the parts side of it. You will have to get longer bolts for the passenger is leaf spring, Its a half a inch taller and the old ones wont work. Any machine shop should be able to make that u bolt longer and the bolts are standard size but with a tapered end, they just need to be 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer!
Driver Side Axle:
The new ubolts for the rear(in the ruff country kit) will work on the driver side leaf spring. But if you're planning on raising the rear to you wil lbe a few u bolts short.
Steering arm:
The old one defiantly wont work, and the little for bolt doflicky has a bad reputation of sheering the bolts. The dana 44 drag link for a 4 to 6 " lift will work. It looks like a S.
Brake lines:
the factory ones are a little short, I m hoping to undo the clips from the frame to give me an extra inch or two of play
Pictures will follow, Note I only did the front b/c I wanted the heavy duty spring in the rear and I like that sway back stance on the truck. I have a set of military 36" inch tires just waiting to go on.
Basically I like the steering arm altercations, bleeding the break lines and installin the new shocks.
Any questions just ask.
Grade 7 or 8 bolts only!
All together I have around 500 bucks in the lift.
