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instrument panel causing these probs

edpdx

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Oregon
I was testing the cluster circuit "board" on the rear of the instrument cluster (on the kitchen table). The rear left turn signal would come on steady with the headlamps. I noticed three things:


  1. The bottom most tab that the wiring harness plugs into on the back of the cluster was canted upward and laying on top of the copper tab above it.
  2. There is a break in the copper circuit to the affected signal lamp
  3. There is separation in the lamination that sandwich's the copper circuit in one place.

I plan on addressing the problems 1. was already fixed by bending it back in place. I may add a dab of rubber cement under each one to prevent any more of this flimsy business.

On item 2... anyone know a good fix to bridge the cracked copper circuit?
I was simply going to double side cello tape the affected separation..

Last thing. I was testing continuity and found that the incandescent stock 194 wedge bulbs have continuity across the leads; BUT the LED replacements don't have continuity. Is there something about the circuits of the LED bulbs that need electricity before bridging the circuit?
 

doghead

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Led bulbs will not work in the cucv for the alternator lights.
 

edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
Thanks boys, I have not replaced the GEN lamps, only the other cluster lamps. I tried tricking it out in RED; but did not get enough light, now I believe that the problem was not the LEDs but the continuity of the circuitry.
 

dstang97

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Clover, SC
I actually have a roll of copper that would work perfect for fixing up the circuit. If anyone needs some Let me know.
 

cpf240

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Free in Northern Idaho
Last thing. I was testing continuity and found that the incandescent stock 194 wedge bulbs have continuity across the leads; BUT the LED replacements don't have continuity. Is there something about the circuits of the LED bulbs that need electricity before bridging the circuit?
LEDs, or Light Emitting Diodes are, well... diodes... they only conduct in one direction. So, try reversing your probes to change the bias on the diode, and you should get a reading.
 

richingalveston

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does the dimmer nob work with the led lights? I was planning to do this because i have some lights out and would like it brighter but still want adjustment.

thanks
 

Warthog

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does the dimmer nob work with the led lights? I was planning to do this because i have some lights out and would like it brighter but still want adjustment.

thanks
No they do not work with the dimmer

Let me reword that. They are not adjusted by the dimmer.
 

edpdx

Active member
794
75
28
Location
Oregon
Just finished doctoring my tired Cluster Circuit "board". Ran down to Radio Shack and bought a Conductive Pen to trace all the circuit traces that were broken or questionable.

Pulled the lamp holders and bent the ears out to give them better purchase in the holes. The bulb clamps in each socket were tweaked closed to grip the 194 lamp tighter and also received a dab from the pen. Any suspicious cracks got a shot as well.

I had to literally test each LED for POS/NEG, the used the info provided by Warhog's circuit map to figure out the flow of current on the cluster lights.

The GEN lights and the High-beam lamp remained standard 194. The others received the LEDx5 bulbs. They are still RED; but seem brighter. The dimmer does not affect these bulbs- they are either OFF or ON- but since they are red, they are never too bright. They can still be switched OFF.
 
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