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insulating and making a cucv a bit quieter

j.cherry377

New member
17
1
1
Location
Hamilton Montana
anyone have any idea what the mounting area right behind the right seat shown in the photos with the blue paint was for? its a depression with a bar that goes across it. I have seen it in all the blazers but never anything that used it
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I went crazy with LMC products. stripped truck and painted with Gillespie Forest green, base paint for woodland camo. painted entire truck in and out.
used the firewall insulation plus the asphalt base silencer then the Jute padded mylar padding. on top of that i put the rubber floor mat.
In the rear i have added side wall insulation using HVAC duct insulation it is peel and stick with alluminum foil on one side. i then spray painted the foil.

i dont have the finished pics with floor and rear done, try to post them tomorrow. I have had it back on the road and it is almost as quiet as my 2005 durramax 4door
 

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richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
Here are pics of rear. I used asphalt product in layers to fill grooves in bed since ruber floor is not fitted with grooves. with the padding on top and the rubber floor you cant feel the grooves in the bed.

I do not plan on getting this truck wet. yes if I do i can pull all of it out let dry and put back or just replace the pad.
still dont have pics with rubber floor installed.
all of the asphalt type material was installed then heated with heat gun to mold to the floor.
all padded material with mylar foil was seamed with metal tape.

add finished pics soon, have front seets in but not rear.
 

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PETE BALLARD

Member
205
0
16
Location
Plainfield,Il
i have used a material from Menard's called Frost King from the hvac department. Cost was about $16.00 per roll, peel and stick/foil backed used for hvac duct insulation. Works very well at fraction of what the Dynomat stuff costs. You do have to clean real good before installing.
 

redline300

Member
48
1
8
Location
Ocala, Florida
How many rolls of Rattle Trap did you need for the entire M1009? Do you have pictures of the front and cargo completion? What did you put on top of the Rattle Trap when you were finished?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am not sure you will get a reply. That thread has been dormant since 2013. I have used Line X. It is very good as a sound deader and an absolute excellent final finish and lasts for years with no abrasion in any of the common wear areas. A bit costly but the absolute best and final job you will do to the floor. That is my opinion. I have done several vehicles inside with no regrets.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am sure it is better then the bare floor. But even so that would be the thing to get sprayed in first then you could add anything you want from that point. It would seal the floor from moisture and rust.
 

Nomeranger7

New member
6
0
1
Location
Eagle River, AK
Hey Redline, I live in Alaska too (Eagle River) and understand the heat challenges. What I am looking at doing this spring is to finish cleaning up the floor pan, use POR-15 and then have the floor sprayed with Linex/Rhino Liner. I have seen others on this site talk about using either Fatmat or Dynamat (you can find them on line...still looking around town for it) product for sound deadening. Both these products are adhesive and have a reflective aluminum layer on the outside that may help direct heat/keep heat in. I plan on using it inside my doors as well. I am looking for a new rubber floor mat to finish the job for the interior.
 

PETE BALLARD

Member
205
0
16
Location
Plainfield,Il
A produce known as Frost King purchased from Menards is almost as good as the Dyna-matt product at a fraction of the cost found in the HVAC department. 12 in roll x 20 feet I think for $19.95 - it has served me well!
 
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