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Intake flame heater delete

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
So, dumb question. How do you know if it's working? Mine doesn't leak. It's going to start getting mighty cold around here. Would be nice if it actually works.
I have found that engaging the flame heater briefly before you crank the engine results in a noticeable response from the engine in wanting to start. I realize that the "TM is gospel" folks are going to have a fit but I see no reason why this is bad practice. I otherwise would probably never see any real change in engine behavior while trying to start. I have a new and tested flame heater nozzle so I know it works as well as it is ever going to. Will probably look at installing the ether kit I bought off of ebay several years ago or an arctic heater.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
Yes the nozzle and spark plug are replaced with the plugs. The tee in the return lines is simply deleted. Replace with a new piece of return line.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,248
3,325
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
For small lengths of DOT air line I go to my local truck stop/truck repair shop. If I do not need yards of the stuff they just give me some cutoffs to make me go away. It is so cheap that it is not worth their time and printer paper to print an invoice.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Idk why you guys went through all that trouble. I just put in two 1/8" npt plugs in the nozzle housing and plugged the injection pump. My truck already had the one port on the intake elbow plugged from the ether start kit. The front port on the injection pump isn't bad if you have wobble extensions and a universal joint and a ball Allen socket. When I eventually do the water injection one of the intake elbow ports will be used for the spray nozzle.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
In my mind, if I'm going to disable it, I might as well delete it completely. I don't ever plan to re-install it or install anything like it in the future, so this baby and everything associated with it is going bye bye.
 
178
16
18
Location
Jackson NJ
I did what Lt Dan did. plugged the two lines in the nozzle and replaced the return line at the tee. plugged the IP and that was the end of that. On my other deuce I had the nozzle 1, leaked fuel onto the turbo. 2, always leaked fuel into the intake manifold. That truck smoked like a chimney. After buying a new nozzle and having the same problem I ended up just plugging the nozzle and IP. Cleaned up my emissions a great amount.
 

lino

Member
148
2
18
Location
Wake Forest, NC
Napa has a big selection of these metric drain plugs that will fit the flame heater holes.
My local napa had the following on the shelf:
m20x1.5.... Part # 7041046, & 7041070
m18x1.5.... Part # 7041385

I bought these, but then found that my heater nozzle wasn't M20x1.5 It's M20x1.25 (I checked and rechecked).

That seems to be an unobtainium thread size.

All I found were taps and dies that size, not even any bolts, let alone plugs.
1.25mm pitch is very close to 20tpi, but the diameter is closest to 25/32 which is smack in the middle of normal thread sizes.

Still searching...
 

lino

Member
148
2
18
Location
Wake Forest, NC
Post 56-57 is there and I bought the fittings but did not do the work yet.
So what is the NSN of part 31 and 32 and we go from there....
Actually it's parts 26 and 27.
the M18x1.5 fits into the spark plug hole (where part 31 goes).

I've been searching for the last hour or so to find anything to go in there without tapping.
The ether kit supposedly plugs that (if I remember the contents of this thread correctly), so that might be the part number to search for.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Actually it's parts 26 and 27.
the M18x1.5 fits into the spark plug hole (where part 31 goes).

I've been searching for the last hour or so to find anything to go in there without tapping.
The ether kit supposedly plugs that (if I remember the contents of this thread correctly), so that might be the part number to search for.
I posted earlier that I'm sure the threads are a straight thread NPT . The military never used any Metric fittings that I have ever seen in these years. I was a maintenance mechanic in the Marines (after a lateral move from Tanks) and never used a metric wrench or socket or metric anything. What has probably happened is that the Metric threads are close enough to fit, just like a 11mm is 7/16" , 13mm is 1/2" and a 19mm is 3/4" .
 

lino

Member
148
2
18
Location
Wake Forest, NC
I posted earlier that I'm sure the threads are a straight thread NPT . The military never used any Metric fittings that I have ever seen in these years. I was a maintenance mechanic in the Marines (after a lateral move from Tanks) and never used a metric wrench or socket or metric anything. What has probably happened is that the Metric threads are close enough to fit, just like a 11mm is 7/16" , 13mm is 1/2" and a 19mm is 3/4" .
I checked all the straight pipe and even the British straight pipe fittings I could find data for. The pitch matches right up with 20 tpi, but the diameter is an odd-ball 25/32" I couldn't find anything near that. It's far finer pitch than typical pipe threads of anything near that diameter.

Sparkplug threads have been metric for ages (and the spark plug threads on these are metric too), but the nozzle threads appear to be odd, whether you look metric or standard.

I had considered making the right plug, but I have enough on my plate, and the nozzles don't seem to be a hot (no pun intended) resale commodity, so I'll probably cut the nose off my nozzle and tap the ID for a pipe plug.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
001.jpg
I checked all the straight pipe and even the British straight pipe fittings I could find data for. The pitch matches right up with 20 tpi, but the diameter is an odd-ball 25/32" I couldn't find anything near that. It's far finer pitch than typical pipe threads of anything near that diameter.

Sparkplug threads have been metric for ages (and the spark plug threads on these are metric too), but the nozzle threads appear to be odd, whether you look metric or standard.

I had considered making the right plug, but I have enough on my plate, and the nozzles don't seem to be a hot (no pun intended) resale commodity, so I'll probably cut the nose off my nozzle and tap the ID for a pipe plug.
You must be young, as spark plugs have been standard threads since the 1980's at least on American vehicles. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. They are straight thread NPT . Any hydraulic shop will have them.
 

lino

Member
148
2
18
Location
Wake Forest, NC
You must be young, as spark plugs have been standard threads since the 1980's at least on American vehicles. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. They are straight thread NPT . Any hydraulic shop will have them.
Ha! I like hearing that. I don't feel that young, and I was driving by the end of the 80s... And not far from you in fact. I grew up on the east side, in Issaquah.

I'll admit to no experience on American cars. However, I do have an american engine in one my vehicles though (chevy 350), and recalled being confused at the presence of metric on the engine. I just checked the Machinist's Handbook and found that the SAE standard for spark plugs lists only metric threads. The spark plugs for that 350 (which I just checked) have 14mm threads. A little more research helped me remember what I was confused about.

The SBC has had 14mm spark plug threads since it's beginning in 1955. But the seat has changed. All of the wrench sizes are NOT metric. They are either 13/16 (early) or 5/8 (late).
So what had befuddled me years ago was that spark plugs used metric threads and standard wrenches. I believe the same is true on foreign cars (but I haven't checked and could be wrong).

I also checked all the straight pipe threads (NPS) in the Machinist's Handbook (and all the other threads I could find).
Straight pipe sizes jump from 3/4 to 1"
British Standard Pipe threads aren't tapered, but still won't work, they have Whitworth threadform, and the closest size is 7/8"

In metric threads, the machinist's handbook doesn't even list M20x1.25. "normal" thread pitches for that diameter are 1, 1.5, and 2.5mm.

So it appears this is a pretty uncommon thread.

Anyway, last night I decided I had many other placed to spend my time, so I cut the end of the injection nozzle, removed the contents and tapped the ID for 1/4 NPT (hole was a little too large for that) and glued in a pipe plug. That will seal the hole for now with the proper threads. And I can focus my attention on things like brakes and fuel for now.

If my OCD fires up again on this, I might just machine some plugs. But it's pretty far back on the list right now...
 
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