Integrated Battery Chargers

[Light in the Dark]

Just thought I would share some pictures of what I mounted up on my 802 the other day.







These products serve two very distinct needs in these sets

1.) Make sure your batteries are operational when you need them
2.) Onboard backup should your alternator fail under use

So the first is pretty apparent... mine is hooked up to a power entry port added to the side of the machine, which I simply unplug before use (you can source the input here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The second need is one of sheer defensive nature. I had a guy in PA who purchased a machine from me almost a year ago. Turns out even with his regular testing, something had gone wrong with the alternator. He had picked one of these up (rather, the unit that preceded this one from NOCO, but same damn thing basically) but had never installed it. Tornado came through his area, so he had to go live.

After the machine dying 8 hours into his use, and a new set of batteries being drained... we determined the problem. He thankfully had one of these on the shelf, and was able to put it to use to satisfy the DC side of the set. He charged the new batteries which had been exhausted in the second 8 hour run, and then powered this charging device off the front convenience outlet of the machine while running (through the same side power entry port I mentioned earlier).

A simple, double use product that can make the difference between you reading Steel Soldiers during an outage, or heating up a can of beans with a Bic lighter (only a slight exaggeration here). There are other solutions out there, including the solar packs the military installed, but just wanted to share what I did. Might help someone else during storm season.

 

[Coug]

More than a few times the generators I work on in the civilian world have had DC charging issues and I got the customer through the outage with a jump start and a small battery charger/maintainer.
I like the no.co stuff; I have several of their jump packs (GB150s) and multiple of their chargers, and haven't had any issues with any of them yet after 4 years of buying their stuff.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have a conventional charger, as well as a NOCO Genius G7200 12V/24V 7.2 Amp Battery Charger and Maintainer for 'out of machine' use.

 

[Guyfang]

Looks clean LITD, looks clean.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Thanks. The world is going a bit sideways these days, for a number of reasons... absolutely no reason in my mind why I can't at least hopefully count on my OD box to work when asked to .

 

[MixManSC]

My only worry is the amount of heat it will be subjected to in the engine compartment. Might not affect it but my worry would be longer term effects. Then again, in the middle of a hot summer day, it is not exactly cool in the control panel compartment either for that matter. I do really like that idea of it self powering while the set is running which would negate an alternator issue for sure. Realistically if it provides solid voltage while the set is running and is charging I'd think you could just about use something like this to literally replace the alternator.

 

[Chainbreaker]

My only worry is the amount of heat it will be subjected to in the engine compartment. Might not affect it but my worry would be longer term effects. Then again, in the middle of a hot summer day, it is not exactly cool in the control panel compartment either for that matter...

Yeah, I'm liking this new NOCO package as well and when I need another battery maintainer for one of my gensets I'll have to snag one.

Below is a snip of their operating/environmental spec's. So as I read it...its designed to "operate -4 to 104F". They can tolerate a range of "storage temps" while "off" as I read that, meaning while genset is running and NOCO is unplugged/turned off it can tolerate ambient enclosure air up to 140F.

So, it would seem that the charging rate might be affected if using as an alternator replacement/backup due to the 104F operating limitation if genset enclosure ambient air temp inside reaches greater than 104F. So, it appears to be designed as just a "battery maintainer" with temperature compensated charging so as not to overcharge (boil cells dry) as it gets hotter. However, it will most likely still operate outside those temps but that is what it would be warrantied for.


Operating Requirements
Line Voltage: 120V to 240V AC
Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz
Operating Temperature: -4° to 104° F (-20° to 50° C)
Storage Temperature: -22° to 140° F (-30° to 60° C)
Relative Humidity: 0 to 95% Non-Condensing

 

[Light in the Dark]

We will see how it goes. As I am using it, it will always be in that operating range (and be powered down when the set is running). Its better than nothing if your alternator does fail... I am sure it will get you through, as the air is replenished constantly in the machine while running.

As for alternator delete, it would be a fun experiment to try to find an idler pully to mount up off the alternator mounting hole (and upper bracket).

 

[MixManSC]

I guess if your alternator is truly shot and not rebuildable you could simply disconnect it in place and leave it be. As long as the bearings are fine then without a connection it should not put any load on the belt other than the additional rotating mass. As far as running airflow that is an excellent point on having it in the engine compartment (as long as it is in the stream of moving air anyway). Also thinking out loud - I wonder if eliminating that additional rotating mass and load of the alternator (just eliminate it entirely without an idler and use a shorter belt) would there be any measurable increase in efficiency/runtime? The idea of the generator heads own 120v output being used to provide a solid state derived 12v source to each battery for actual engine running is somewhat fascinating to me. Obviously nothing is free, doing so is simply shifting that dual 12v (or single 24v) load from one place (off the front of the crankshafts pulley) and adding it to another (the generator head on the rear of the crankshaft) but there is potentially a slight gain (or loss) of efficiency in doing so.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You will need something to take up the slack of any sized belt. Leaving the dead one in place, and disconnecting the leads, is the easiest way. But there may be some small efficiencies to note by removing the drag. I am just not sure it would be enough to document outside of lab testing.

 

[Demoh]

Id 2nd the Noco products, out of all chargers / maintainers ive used on automotive / forklifts / etc... this would be the only brand where I dont have any failures yet out of ~25 or so various chargers / jump packs, etc...

Anybody running Noco gear I am curious if anybody has ever had a fault state which requires power cycling the charger. I havent run into this but I am curious if any faults are auto-clearing as that was a big factor for me switching away from 2 of the other brands. I hated having to use garden timers to force daily power cycles.

Also something I have noticed is that Ive had the solar units that come with the gens do more harm than good to the batteries so I always disconnect them. When I retrieved my gens that I hauled up to Alabama 3 months ago (been up there since I think it was Sally so just under a year) every one that was solar was dead and the ones that didnt have solar fired right up. This is just my experience though, I wouldnt trust the solar failure rate of my experience because I never tested those myself, just left them connected. The batteries inside those gens have been on my nocos for 3 months now and they are not coming back. I guess I should probably write those off.

 

[Bill Nutting]

I have one Noco in the barn. It’s a good unit. I use battery Tenders on my vehicles and I use the Noco to keep my loose 12 volt batteries fresh. Your choice to use a dual out unit to tend both batteries is good. I use 24 volt Battery Tenders because they make them. It’s just a personal preference thing. Your solution is just as good in my opinion…

 

[Light in the Dark]

Id 2nd the Noco products, out of all chargers / maintainers ive used on automotive / forklifts / etc... this would be the only brand where I dont have any failures yet out of ~25 or so various chargers / jump packs, etc...

Anybody running Noco gear I am curious if anybody has ever had a fault state which requires power cycling the charger. I havent run into this but I am curious if any faults are auto-clearing as that was a big factor for me switching away from 2 of the other brands. I hated having to use garden timers to force daily power cycles.

Also something I have noticed is that Ive had the solar units that come with the gens do more harm than good to the batteries so I always disconnect them. When I retrieved my gens that I hauled up to Alabama 3 months ago (been up there since I think it was Sally so just under a year) every one that was solar was dead and the ones that didnt have solar fired right up. This is just my experience though, I wouldnt trust the solar failure rate of my experience because I never tested those myself, just left them connected. The batteries inside those gens have been on my nocos for 3 months now and they are not coming back. I guess I should probably write those off.

I've seen nothing but problems with the 24V military solar pack.

 

[JM2]

Just an FYI. I also mounted almost exactly the same charger in the same spot on an 803. After a 8hr. load bank, it did not seem to have heat issues. While I did not use a thermometer, it wasn't warm to the touch. Not cold, but not really hot. This was a concern of mine too. It appears to not be a problem, at least in that location.

 

[Demoh]

I've seen nothing but problems with the 24V military solar pack.

Awesome, glad Im not the only one. (well not awesome but at least its confirmation Im not crazy.)

 

[FloridaAKM]

I had one of the original Noco 24v battery charger that burned up after about 4 years of usage. To replace it, I got the 2600 (?) unit that suppies 7.5 amps @ 24v & it works great.

The solarizers will be replaced when they go bad, since the two I had gotten new only cost $30.00 each NIB. The rotating batteries is a must, especially when you have 4 like the LMTV's do. Thanks for all the input!