Interior coating for M1009

[OL AG '89]

Ken,

Fully understand, I'm a cheap *ss, at least according to wife and kids, friends and neighbors, so I decide to tackle myself. The process was time consuming, about 8 full hours for prep and this first coat. Other than the one are that has released, the rest of the truck looks great and has ZERO issues. I'm hoping the supplier will explain why this occured and maybe "help" me with repair kit. If not I have another gallon of the stuff that only has a shelf life of 6? months, so I will just clean the snot of the floor area again and then apply second coat.
In the end it will of been EASIER and probably less COSTLY to have it done by pros, but there's no FUN or Frustration in that!!! LOL

 

[four_by_ken]

I am with you. I just have had bad experience with the roll on DIY stuff. Did the entire lower half of a Suburban once... it looked good for about 3 months and then I hated it after that. That was Durabak.

I also did some bumpers and some other small things a couple times with different brands and didnt get any better results.

Then I did the bumpers and interior of a Wrangler with Rhino and they did a great job. Looked almost like new when I sold it.

Now my M1008 is inside and out and I love it. Never again will I use DIY for anything.

 

[Hasdrubal]

When I got my 1009 the interior had a lot of floor surface rust from a water leak that had seemingly gone on forever. Spent a couple of brutal days squating inside with a vacuum sand blaster. Then I used phosphoric acid on the side seams to neutralize any rust I couldn't get to. Next, priming with rustoleum red primer, then scuffing with scotch brite and washing it all over with reducer.

Used rhino liner, got the tintable product, so its green. As the product is slightly yellowish, add a little black to the green to get the right shade. It sprays out of a schutz gun, all you need is a compressor. Did the entire floor, wheel arches and inside face of the tailgate. Went on very thick, incredibly tough stuff, doesn't come off and does a great job as sound deadening also. 7 years now.

 

[four_by_ken]

When I got my 1009 the interior had a lot of floor surface rust from a water leak that had seemingly gone on forever. Spent a couple of brutal days squating inside with a vacuum sand blaster. Then I used phosphoric acid on the side seams to neutralize any rust I couldn't get to. Next, priming with rustoleum red primer, then scuffing with scotch brite and washing it all over with reducer.

Used rhino liner, got the tintable product, so its green. As the product is slightly yellowish, add a little black to the green to get the right shade. It sprays out of a schutz gun, all you need is a compressor. Did the entire floor, wheel arches and inside face of the tailgate. Went on very thick, incredibly tough stuff, doesn't come off and does a great job as sound deadening also. 7 years now.

Are you sure it was Rhino? Need to be a dealer to buy and spray Rhino Liners.

 

[jholler]

What is the OEM non-skid type coating the 1009s come with?

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Regular CARC paint or whatever green paint with the non skid additive (basically silica sand) added in to it.

 

[OL AG '89]

-------- HIJACK WARNING --------
Anybody remember the sandpaper (paint) coating on the front slope of the M60?
**** climbing up on it was a pain, but saved my ARSE numerous times when wet or covered with thin layer of ice.....

----------- Resume normal thoughts---------

 

[Hasdrubal]

"Are you sure it was Rhino?"

Went to check my old bills but the info doesn't specify and it was 7 years ago. So I suppose I could be mistaken. Place sells autobody supplies. Could always go in and ask them to look up the stock number if anyone really wants to know. Listed for $128.00, I paid $88.00 with my discount; Canadian prices! It was a two part mix, smelled nasty, sprayed it outside with a respirator on, gave it plenty of time to dry and off-gas before I went in to do more work.

 

[edpdx]

I decided to spray a liner in my truck; but was put off by the high cost of some of the professionally applied ones. Likewise, I did not want to try box store of parts store brands like dulpicolor or herculiner. I asked at some of the forums and was told that SEM had a real good, easy-to-apply kit. I found one at Cheif Auto or CarQuest ?!?

It came with a spray gun but the mix was too thick and it oozed rather than shot. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $20 ceiling texture hopper gun. The SEM mixed up pretty easily and then I added some Olive Drab to it to tint it to match the paint. After masking the rails and wiping the surfaces with recommended solvent, I sprayed it on. It left a satiny, bumpy (not sandy or gritty) texture that was thick and durable. I was very pleased with it. I have since abused it, yet it holds up. I managed to scab an square inch hole in it with the corner of a flat shovel. It has not run or torn. I suppose I could mix a small batch up- yep, I had leftovers, and patch it; but it seems fine so far.

SEM kit, I recommend it highly.

 

[cucv1833]

I went with the hurculiner and im overall happy i got the job done in about 12 hrrs and then let it cure all night. I used a 4" wire brush and grinder to prep it and then wiped it down a few times then put 2 coats on. I had a RHINO liner on my Z-71 and it tore on me but i got it repaired for free. The local shop here wanted to Charge me $500 to do the blazer which is what i payed for the rhino before in my Z-71. so i did it myself for $100. I really wanted to use Dupont kevlar liner but oh well.

 

[baldyviewdesignlab]

I used the Al's liner kit. Well 2 of them... and I am very happy.
Great results for under $250.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/71980-als-liner-m1009-interior.html

 

[jvrotter]

For stuff like this, preperation is everything. I did mine in Herculiner came out fine. But I wire brushed the entire surface and removed all the rust.