ir armored lights

[dusterdeere]

has anybody installed these lights. how did you wire them? power to both sides or just one, I think they have high and low. and what kind of switch did you use .thanks guys

 

[MWMULES]

I put clear lens in mine and have them wired so just the high beams are on the high in them is on also, for wiring I just used a jumper from the head light closest to them. I have since the picture was taken, wired up two of the IR reds like you show to come on when I go to BO drive.

I have seen them mounted on mirror arms, on top of the bumper, light bars above the cab and on top of the front turn signal guards( I was thinking of that also but have the lolly pops).
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[gimpyrobb]

They get the ground through the mount. One of the connectors is for the low beam, the other connector is for the high beam. I wired mine up as one light so that if it ever went out, all I do is connect the wire to the other connector and I'm good to go till I get home to swap out the bulb.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Ours were wired TWO outers dip and main beam Switch on blackout and they went out and the two Inner I.R. Lamps ccame on with dip or high beams.
The helper #1 (bennym45) dispensed with all that probematic stuff as the dip switch was faulty, Cut and modified the wiring to use an ordinary M35 dip switch and now we have four H4 headlights 75/100 wat with all four iether dipped or High beams. Great.

 

[CARNAC]

The official military way for IR was a simple on and off switch. As gimp said the ground is through the mount. I had some clear lens lights (they're identical except for the IR lens vs clear lens) and wanted to wire them on a 4 position switch but never found one. I wanted it so that it would have an OFF, LOW, HIGH and GET THE F*&^ OUT OF MY WAY beam. Never found a 4 position switch I liked but you could always do two switches.

So just to re-reiterate, both of the rubber connections are for positive.

Oh, and I seem to recall the manual said there were different lightbulbs for the IR vs the clear....it's BS. I remember the first ones I got were (from memory so I might be wrong here) 4811 for the IR light. They cost me a bundle, like 30 bucks. Then later checking a mix of IR and clear lights I saw the military had used the same bulb in both 4812. I think Wagner and they were around 5 or 6 bucks each. Bottom line is, get the cheaper ones.

 

[73m819]

I sure could use two clear lenses, I would be happy to swap two ir lenses for two clear.

 

[Storm 51]

I wired up a set for my M-42 Command Truck. I used a waterproof, military DTDP switch with a switch cover. If the switch is in the down position I have low beams; if it is in the up position I have high beams. I got both the clear and IR lenses when I bought the lights from ZiggyO.

Here is a picture of the front of the truck with the added lights (everything is a bolt on mod that used the stock, standard bolt holes - everything can be easily removed and returned to stock without having to weld up any additional holes).

I also included a couple of pictures of the switch plate I built with some dimmable indicator lights and a rear view of the switches I used. The switch plate bolts to the lower lip of the dash.

 

[AZK9]

View attachment 603967has anybody installed these lights. how did you wire them? ...

I've got a pair, but have not yet installed them. I had planned on installing them inside
modified fender brackets much like the one 'boxed' in red outline on the diagram below.

I've still not come across a pair reasonably priced and shipped, so the project is on the
shelf for the time being. I might soon decide to make up my own 'cloned' brackets in the
shop now that it's getting too cold and wet outside to lay on the ground, under the deuce.

I'll be interested in seeing the suggestions for wiring ideas here.

 

[Lockjosh]

Btw you can get a led replacement bulb to fit the armored housings. Not sure of quality, they are 12 volt so you will need to wire them in series to use 24 volts.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CB...SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=318zfuC7XlL&ref=plSrch

 

[Storm 51]

You can also get the 28VDC lights on Amazon. I just got some from www.replacementlightbulbs.com. They are 4811GE's. They are about $15.00 delivered to your door.

 

[Storm 51]

As for wiring, see post # 7 above. I used all Douglas connectors and wired them into my head light feed line using the Douglas "Y" Splices. Routed the Right side light (both wires - on my truck circuit # 17 & 1 over to the Left inner fender and into a splice (both 17's in one splice and both 18's into the other splice) and one wire out of each splice to the switch under the dash.

If you want more detail, PM me.

 

[dusterdeere]

thanks .where did you get that switch looks good.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, that switch is SWEET!

For the guys that hooked into the headlights, did you use any type of relay to protect your 3 lever switch? I though about wiring mine up with a Y connecyer but them remembered all that juice might ruin the CB in the headlight switch.

 

[Storm 51]

I designed the switch bracket and had a local sheet metal shop bend it up. The switches came from either Saturn, Eastern or TJN Murray surplus (I don't remember which one). The indicator lights came from Digi-Key and the little curved guards came from a guy on Ebay (they were about $1.50 each - old manned rocket switch guards from the space programs).

I did not wire in any relays (my truck has none) but the circuit has a 25 amp circuit breaker (I think the switches are for the deuce and 5 ton heaters - they are pretty stout and I don't think the current I'm running through them will ever wear them out). As I recall these lights draw 3 amps on low and 4 amps on high so for the few times I use them things should be just fine.

 

[Artisan]

Right or wrong I used a m939 series heater switch w/ a diode.
There is a thread on this. Please don't ask me to find it.

Do an advanced search with "Artisan" as the poster and
for key words try "switch diode IR lights" . I "think"
it was in the 5 ton area.

In a nutshell I have high and low beam IR's on the front
of my M925A1 "Get you some of THAT! "

 

[Storm 51]

Yes, I used power diodes on my indicator light to prevent back feeding my high or low beams.

I borrowed (stole) that idea from you, Artisan.

 

[Artisan]

Yes, I used power diodes on my indicator light to prevent back feeding my high or low beams.

I borrowed (stole) that idea from you, Artisan.

Nope, no stealing, "Sharing" is what makes this forum great...

Carry On...

 

[machinist75]

I wired up a set for my M-42 Command Truck. I used a waterproof, military DTDP switch with a switch cover. If the switch is in the down position I have low beams; if it is in the up position I have high beams. I got both the clear and IR lenses when I bought the lights from ZiggyO.

Here is a picture of the front of the truck with the added lights (everything is a bolt on mod that used the stock, standard bolt holes - everything can be easily removed and returned to stock without having to weld up any additional holes).

I also included a couple of pictures of the switch plate I built with some dimmable indicator lights and a rear view of the switches I used. The switch plate bolts to the lower lip of the dash.



View attachment 604005View attachment 604006View attachment 604008View attachment 604007View attachment 604011View attachment 604010View attachment 604009

I like "ALL" of it.

 

[Flyingvan911]

I have several IR and clear lights for my deuce and Mutt. Unfortunately they are a little too big to fit in the bumper of my Econoline. That would look nice.

 

[wsucougarx]

I use the regular rotary switch (on/off) and 12 AWG prestolite cable.