Is blazer driveshaft a weak point?

[Rustyshackelford]

I'm upgrading my m1009 to one ton axles and I'm wondering if the rear driveshaft should be upgraded at this time. Is the stock driveshaft a weak point?

 

[86m1028]

I'm upgrading my m1009 to one ton axles and I'm wondering if the rear driveshaft should be upgraded at this time. Is the stock driveshaft a weak point?

I would say yes, skip the conversion u joint & just have a new shaft built with either 1350 or 1410 series joints.
Go with a heavier wall tubing at the same time.
Spend a little more up frt & be done with it.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

What do y'all think about taking a driveshaft from a m1008 and having it cut to fit the blazer?

 

[Barrman]

That way your slip yoke and NP208 become the weak point. Not trying to make fun. Just pointing out that if you are going to be driving it hard enough to twist the drive shaft off, that might be the cheapest thing left down there. Along with the easiest to replace in the field and still get home.

Finding a used shaft, putting the conversion u joint in it, a spare set of ujoint bolts and a gallon of ATF in the back of the truck wrapped in a trash bag along with a 7/16" wrench might be money better spent.

This is the modifiers never ending question. "What will break next?"

 

[bachman502]

when you replace your 10 bolt with a 14 bolt rear axle, you will have to get your drive shaft shortened. The 14 bolt has a longer pinion nose than the 10 bolt. When you do that get the 1 ton yoke welded to your blazer shaft and run a 1 ton u joint. When you make the switch, now is the time for the lift if your going to add one. That way shaft is the right length. And regarding breaking anything.... good luck doing that with a 6.2.

 

[richingalveston]

The u joints are the week points. The shaft in my opinion is plenty strong for the horse power and weight of the vehicle.

I agree that the slip yoke and t-case is going to have problems before twisting a drive shaft.
Using the 1410 u-joints that have sealed bearings (non-greasable) are the strongest. stay away from combo u-joints joints if you can they are only as strong as the smallest side.


I have a 1008 front drive shaft rebuilt with more slip in the shaft and 1410 u-joint in back with new double cardon (cv) joint at the t-case. I have already stuck the truck twice and beat on it pretty good getting it out and nothing broke. second time sticking it I had to get the tractor to pull it out. The dirt at my farm has no bottom, once you break the crust of the vegetation you sink to the frame.

when you get a 6.5 or larger motor, 205 t-case and 14 bolt rear end under the truck, you might at that point start to worry about twisting a shaft.

my 2 cents.
Rich

 

[Recovry4x4]

The driveshaft is the cheapest fusible link in the driveline. If I had my choice, it would be the weakest link.

 

[Csm Davis]

I'm upgrading my m1009 to one ton axles and I'm wondering if the rear driveshaft should be upgraded at this time. Is the stock driveshaft a weak point?

I would ask how hard you plan on being on the truck and how good your maintenance schedule is. And be realistic if you have a great maintenance program and plan on beating the truck, stay with a 1310 at the transfer case and heavier 1350 or 1410 at the axle end and here is why, you need a week link built in that you can repair on the trail. I have seen 1310 joints hang in untill a dana 300 and a np205 case came apart, two different trucks with high horsepower gas burners. Now if your maintenance program is hit or miss, go big on both ends and just hope for the best because you won't know what will give out when.

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