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Is it worth pulling the oilpan?

OldDominionIron2

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Getting ready to do the first fluid/filter change on my M35A2 since I got it. I'm hoping to see a little mileage increase from the new filters. I was wondering if it is worth pulling the oilpan and cleaning it out, and if so, questioning whether I should wait to get a new oil pan gasket or just use Permatex Ultra Black sealant as a replacement gasket. I understand that using the Permatex requires letting it set up for a little bit before tightening, and checking the torque after it's run for a few hours (at least that's what a lot of the posts I've read say about it).

Let me know your experiences with deuce oil pan work. I have the TM's.

Also, do you really have to pull the fuel filter assembly out of the truck to replace the filters (like the TM has you do) or can you pull the cans and replace the filter elements with the assembly on the truck. The plan now is to pull the assembly as per the TM. I understand there are some small pieces that like to get lost.

Thanks.
 

DieselBob

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Arnold Maryland
Getting ready to do the first fluid/filter change on my M35A2 since I got it. I'm hoping to see a little mileage increase from the new filters. I was wondering if it is worth pulling the oilpan and cleaning it out,
Unless there is a lot of crud like some kind of solids in the oil that you drain I wouldn't pull the pan 2cents

Also, do you really have to pull the fuel filter assembly out of the truck to replace the filters (like the TM has you do) or can you pull the cans and replace the filter elements with the assembly on the truck. The plan now is to pull the assembly as per the TM. I understand there are some small pieces that like to get lost.

Thanks.
You only need to remove the cans themselves. No need to remove the entire mounting assembly.
 

Stalwart

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Redmond, WA
I have been known to pour some warm Diesel in the engine and then let it drain overnight. On gasoline engines, I've bought a second filter and filled to capacity with Diesel. I run at IDLE only for a couple of minutes, and let drain overnight. Change the filter again and fill with oil.
 

DieselBob

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Arnold Maryland
DB, are you one of the ones that the oil filters don't drain after the truck has sat overnight?
Mine drain down ok. I just always drive my vehicles 15 ~ 20 miles, up to operating temp, then drop the oil as soon as I shut down. I pull the plug on the filter base to make sure as much oil as possible is drained out of the cans before I break them loose.
 

hoop

Member
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va
I like to change the oil when it is hot(warm oil carries more foreign particulates with it).
I drain the oil from the pan, then before I change the filters I put in 4 gals of Diesel and start and idle the engine for 4 to 5 minutes.
Drain and change the filters.....when doing this the filters will drain off in just a matter of minutes.
No, I would not pull the pan.
 

renovate7

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Florida
I was in the retail auto parts business, in a previous lifetime, in the last century. We sold a product called Motor Flush. I think it was a basically a quart of diesel in a can. I got negative feedback from some customers with high mileage engines. It seems it could brake enough crud loose to plug up the intake screen on the oil pump, not good. It also cleaned off so much built up stuff from bearings etc. that it gave them lower oil pressure...For a while in the 80's Clark Equipment (Clark Forklifts) sent a tube of permatex when you ordered a pan gasket. Talk about some ticked off mechanics (now called technicians).
 

Wildchild467

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Milford / Michigan
DB, thank you for the tip, mine don't drain.

Stalwart, do you run the diesel through the diesel motor like you do the gas?
Seeing that the drain is obviously at the bottom of the oil filters and on the un filtered side of the filter, there usually some sludge in the bottom that plugs it up when you try to drain it. if you have a pit cock (if thats how they are spelled...you know... a valve) on the drain, i would try cracking the valve open when it is running. the oil pressure might break the clog loose. it has a chance of getting messy, so be prepaired. close it soon as you get some oil flow. shut the engine down and i would think the hot oil would help unclog the rest. maybe somebody that has more experience could chime in, but thats what i did with other gas engines. or maybe just take the plug out and poke up in there with a piece of wire to break it loose. that might be less messy.
 

OldDominionIron2

New member
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Location
Hampton, VA
Starting with the fuel filters, here are pics of the old and new filters. THEY LOOK NOTHING ALIKE. Did I get sent the wrong filter? Besides the holes in the new filter being bigger, the filter rattles around in the can when I put it together. I took it apart for the pics. The new oil/secondary fuel filters have the same big hole/cork gasket, but I haven't pulled them yet. Advice?

edit: I've looked for a cup/spring setup in the old filter, but there's nothing there. Followed the TM, removed the filter assembly to another location where I removed the old filter. It sure makes it easier removing the old gasket and installing the new one (or at least the one I got with whatever filter this is). The filter is a Baldwin PF906, with Baldwin filters for the oil and secondary fuel filters as well. It's a kit I ordered from a MV parts dealer.
 

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rrrr

Member
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Location
Missouri
Starting with the fuel filters, here are pics of the old and new filters. THEY LOOK NOTHING ALIKE. Did I get sent the wrong filter? Besides the holes in the new filter being bigger, the filter rattles around in the can when I put it together. I took it apart for the pics. The new oil/secondary fuel filters have the same big hole/cork gasket, but I haven't pulled them yet. Advice?

In your left hand is the new type primary fuel filter. The other filter, tall one, is the secondary/final type fuel filter.
 
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