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Is my deuce a crane truck now?

jesusgatos

Active member
2,689
28
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Location
on the road - in CA right now
I got one of those HF hoists too. Picked up a strap-type hand-winch at the same time, but I think I'm going to use a cable-type hand-winch instead. I'm going to make a few sets of bases for it, so I can move it around to lift things. On the front bumper, up into the cabover rack and onto the roof of Mah Deuce, spare tire onto the trailer tongue, up onto the trailer roof, inside the trailer, etc. wish they sold the bottom half of those hoists separately, as accessories. Would be easier, and cheaper, than making them myself...
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Man I am still tired! My firewood heats me at least 5 times.

I was looking at the truck back when I had to pull the transmission. It looks like a foot could be attached to the passenger step and some type of bolt on upper ring to support the mast located on the upper door frame. Then the same crane could be used to also pull the transmission. It did work well changing my cylinder heads mounted on the front bumper. I like the idea behind the cab.

.
As for another use for the crane. When I was kicking back at Aarons during the awesome PNW convoy I had an idea for a private shower for a semi public place.
I made it the next weekend while I was camping getting fire wood. 2 hula hoops, 2 shower curtians, 4 boxes of rings, and a solar shower. The curtain hangs from the fixed hook. The shower bag drops with the cable for refills. It was slick. I need to find camo shower curtians online.

And I hope to film the drag strip. It will be cool to see the LDT 1C time and then the LDS time when I get to putting it in someday. I'll post up the run.
 

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rlwm211

Active member
1,648
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Location
Guilford, NY
Kaiser Jeeps; I suspect your master cylinder is at fault and not your airpack. There is a tiny "vent hole" ahead of the piston that can get clogged up with rust and debris and not allow the brakes to release fully when you are going down the road. I would check this as follows:

Open the master and move the cap out of the way. While watching the fluid in the master apply the brakes and look for some "upflow" in the master before the pedal takes up and gets firm. This is an indication that the vent is open. If there is no upflow, or a surge of fluid in the master BEFORE the piston actually is making pressure it means the vent is plugged and what is happening is that your truck's brake system is operating with a sort of check valve in it that is slowly increasing the standing pressure in your brake system to a point where the brakes are applied in earnest.

Ask me how I know this is happening.....I had the same problem and spent a lot of time learning more than anyone needs to know about the brake system on a deuce.


RL
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Thanks for the tip on the master. I did buy a new one a while back. That does not mean much now days. I have had problems with the air pack before, so I naturally was looking at it first. My problem is when I brake it works fine. Eventually the brakes start to apply and the brake pedal gets firmer and has a higher stop or resistance when putting your foot on the brake. I can feel the drag. I can work the brake and it seems to release OK. The pressure builds over the road with out me touching the brake pedal. I am assuming that I have a particle or a check valve in the air pack is having issues. I took it out and rebuilt it last time and the problem went away till now.

Brakes are important. LOL Especially overloaded as I was. I did order a new airpack. It is on its way. 503M715 mike tells me there are several versions and newer revisions. Great. Is there any place here online that may detail the dfferences?

Does my description still sound like the master cylinder? I still suspect the airpack. I need to not have blinders on though.
 

rlwm211

Active member
1,648
18
38
Location
Guilford, NY
It is hard to say. To be honest, unless you know the master is releasing, you do not know which is at fault. The other factor is that as the brake system and the entire truck heats up, things expand, and I am not so sure Dot 5 doesn't expand as well. If you are not releasing in the master, this can cause a gradual brake application situation as you are experiencing.

You can remove the input air line from the air pack and squirt a small amount of air tool oil in. A little goes a long way in this case. I have read where it is recommended to put it in the back of the main piston cannister but to be honest the problem you have is ahead of the piston and exhaust air valve and it needs to be lubed on the inlet side. If it is in the air pack, it is blow by on the actuator assembly that is causing a creeping application of the brakes.

Trust your instincts as you have been in the airpack before and I would wager you are probably on the right track.

RL
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
I hope so. It showed up promptly. I will install it today and bleed it tonight when I get assistance. I will check the master for a little geyser like it should have and cross my fingers. I hope to be able to find someone to video the track for me.
I am guessing 52 in the 1/4. I hope there is a tail wind.:mrgreen:
Do I hear 60?
 

Atomic

Member
410
10
18
Location
Albany, GA
Well I can't add anything to your airpack problems but will say great job on the cranes! I will be doing something very close to what ya'll have done. :p
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
The new air pack works WAY better than the old. I went to the drag strip on Saturday and had a HOOT! 6 passes down the strip. I was going to post up a separate thread. I hope the files are not to big. I did almost all video.
 
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