Is this how batteries die?

[rhurey]

Went to start the truck to move it before the windstorm we're supposed to get.

Checked the NOCO before getting in, and showed charge 100% and in the green.

Turned on the battery disconnect, hit the master switch. Battery gauge in the green.

Truck to ON, ABS clickity clickity, Start...

Click.... Click... Everything's dead.

Much trouble shooting that went nowhere...

Unhooked all the wires, put the charger on each individually. All 4 showed full 12V charge. Hit all 4 with a 100A tester.

The two that were in parallel from 0-12V both went dead instantly.
The two that were in parallel from 12-24V showed great condition.

Rewired the two good one in series, fired the truck up and moved it. Unwired them.

So the batteries are the original 6TMF's from when I got the truck 2nd hand a couple of years ago.

With a date of Sept 07 on them.

So I knida assume that at 9 years I should be happy and move on.

But why did two fail at the same time, and should I be worried about some oddity killing them?


Oh, and if that's that, any comments on NAPA's 8d's that are like $200/ea?

Thanks.

 

[wreckerman893]

Unless it gets blistering cold where you are at I'd use the two good batteries until they go teats up and then buy four or stick with two new ones.

I had to switch the M927A2 to two batteries recently due to two of them croaking and being financially disenfranchised.

It cranks every time.

 

[74M35A2]

9 years old, they don't owe you anything. Discard, replace with conventional group 31's @ $100 each, and be done with it. Only way to quantify is to measure available CCA with an internal resistance tester, but being that old is not even worth doing so.

 

[NovacaineFix]

sounds like you're doing everything right, had the same issue on my CUCV a couple months ago.

It was my daily work driver at the time and drove to a customer's home did my work went to leave and ... nothing. My battery gage wasn't not installed, but got the trusty DVOM out and checked the voltage. Surface voltage was good, 12.6 on the front and 12.8 on the rear, but why wouldn't it start?
Turned the headlights on for a few seconds to take that surface charge away to get the "real" voltage, 7.2 on the front, 12.6 on the rear. So my front battery lost a couple cells just out of the blue, wouldn't take a charge and couldn't jump it, just a large lead weight at that point.

I find it amazing how batteries work, they can be fine one moment and the next, nothing. The last 6 batteries I have replaced have all been that way, good up until the last crank.

So what I figure now is after 3-5 years, if they last that long, I start wondering when they are not going to work anymore.
That is good that you got 9 years out of yours.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I find it amazing how batteries work, they can be fine one moment and the next, nothing.

They operate on the same principle as women.

 

[SCSG-G4]

9 years old, they don't owe you anything. Discard, replace with conventional group 31's @ $100 each, and be done with it. Only way to quantify is to measure available CCA with an internal resistance tester, but being that old is not even worth doing so.

Or get the Group 31 blems for about half that price - you just have to ask to see if they have them!

 

[NovacaineFix]

They operate on the same principle as women.

You sir, just won the internet!

 

[Csm Davis]

sounds like you're doing everything right, had the same issue on my CUCV a couple months ago.

It was my daily work driver at the time and drove to a customer's home did my work went to leave and ... nothing. My battery gage wasn't not installed, but got the trusty DVOM out and checked the voltage. Surface voltage was good, 12.6 on the front and 12.8 on the rear, but why wouldn't it start?
Turned the headlights on for a few seconds to take that surface charge away to get the "real" voltage, 7.2 on the front, 12.6 on the rear. So my front battery lost a couple cells just out of the blue, wouldn't take a charge and couldn't jump it, just a large lead weight at that point.

I find it amazing how batteries work, they can be fine one moment and the next, nothing. The last 6 batteries I have replaced have all been that way, good up until the last crank.

So what I figure now is after 3-5 years, if they last that long, I start wondering when they are not going to work anymore.
That is good that you got 9 years out of yours.

On CUCV'S especially but I find all 24v systems it helps to rotate the batteries yearly or even 6 months the 12v only battery seams to get the most wear and tear for some reason and it also is a good time to clean up and fix any corrosion that might have started.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Karl kostman]

This brings back memories! I had just got a 925A1 and it LOOKED like the batteries were brand new, it started great no problems for about 2 months then it was a no start situation, I still remember the clicking sounds! I charged batteries till they all showed 100% charge and the ammeter showed 12.3 to 12.5 volts and still the same thing (not Good). I finally picked up a load tester and 2 out of the 4 batts failed completely, when I got them out of the truck they were dated from 6 years ago. It sure says a lot for appearances can sure be deceiving!!
KK

 

[georgie c]

the last blem I bought at tri-state battery in Delaware was 39 bucks . coupled it with the big battery and have had no more problems

 

[rhurey]

Plan Leave The Two Working Batteries Running came to a screeching halt this afternoon.

8d's are heavy, and tomorrow I will need to fabricate a hold down bracket for them.

 

[SUPERSPORT]

On CUCV'S especially but I find all 24v systems it helps to rotate the batteries yearly or even 6 months the 12v only battery seams to get the most wear and tear for some reason and it also is a good time to clean up and fix any corrosion that might have started.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What is proper rotation for 4 batteries? Just swap the left and right 24 volt banks?

 

[Csm Davis]

What is proper rotation for 4 batteries? Just swap the left and right 24 volt banks?

No as I said above take the batteries that are hooked to ground and swap them into the position that is hooked to 24v positive cable

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[2deuce]

Batteries die from sitting, especially with a low charge or no charge. They sulfate up. I saw where the military rejuvenates batteries by some high tech process and am curious how well it works. Anybody up on this?