Issues with my Deuce that need attention

[Wrenchstench92]

Hello everyone! I haven’t been on here in such a long time hope you all are doing well. I opened my own auto/ truck repair shop I’ve been in business for over a year now.

Anyways, onto my truck.

I have a bunch of things I wanna do to the truck to get it ready for the summer, just renewed registration and insurance

I’m gonna need help/ advice on some of the things I need to do.

1 I need to replace all of the return fuel lines, they all leak, like not dripping but sweating, are there special plastic tubes I need to replace them with or can I use solid steel line and flare them all so it never leaks again?

2 The trans has to come out. I went to check the trans fluid the other day, and when trying to loosen the pipe plug, I lifted the whole gearbox. Opened the inspection plate on the flywheel housing and I see there are a total of 5 bolts holding the gear box to the housing One bolt broke, the bottom most one in the center. The head and like 4 threads came out. The rest must still be in there. 2 on both lower corners I was able to tighten, the last 2 up too I cannot get because they are behind the clutch rod. I see there’s no way to get the rod out in the truck. So I figure I’ll have to pull the trans and I’ll do a clutch, PP, TO bearing and rear main while I’m in there. I’ve seen posts of how others have pulled the trans so no problem there.I have 2 questions on this topic.
-am I going to be able to drill out the broken bolt, meaning how does the bolt stay tight in there? Is there a welded nut inside the trans or something?
-is there supposed to be a rear transmission mount? My truck doesn’t have one. The T case has like 5 points of mounting, seems the transmission has only the flywheel housing/ motor mounts. I am thinking of fabricating a mount because the design seems stupid

3 the right rear leaf pack needs to be replaced. The truck lists hard to the right rear, gotten worse with time and use. It’s not broken just bent. Also would the dog ones need to be changed? I checked them all none are in bad condition and with a pry bar none move.


I’m really sorry about the long post. Just excited to get things fixed on the truck and I promise I will try to get on here a lot more often. TIA

 

[gringeltaube]

-am I going to be able to drill out the broken bolt, meaning how does the bolt stay tight in there? Is there a welded nut inside the trans or something?

All 5 bolt holes are through-holes, with the bolts being just long enough to barely protrude inside the box. There may be some sealant holding that broken stub in place but it shouldn't be difficult to remove, in either direction.

... is there supposed to be a rear transmission mount? My truck doesn’t have one.

The transmission is firmly supported by its round bell housing. It's a very common, proven design; no extra support needed.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Good morning gringel. Thanks for the info very appreciated.

Ok awesome. I was just amazed that 5 bolts is all that holds the trans. But, like you said, they are all like that so sounds good to me.

Today the wifey and I are heading to the range we haven’t gone shooting in a while and it’s a beautiful day today. Tomorrow will be rain all day so I will have to save this job for next weekend.

 

[Recovry4x4]

There is an approved nylon line to use for the return line. Metal lines that you can flare and bend would likely crack without some type of robust support system. The lines on there likely have been there 40 years, that's pretty good in my opinion.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Most people use DOT air line for return lines without problems. Make sure to use the brass inserts in the ends of the line. They look like little trumpets and prevent the compression nut from cutting through the line.

You can be...um.. detail oriented and get the correct ferrules. Or you can use 8 cent hardware store brass ferrules and touch them to the grinding wheel briefly on both sides to make them narrower to allow the compression nut to grab a thread. Works fine for me.


Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Hey guys good morning. Ok sounds good plastic lines it is then. Just wanted to get that fixed also because it looks nasty when I open the hood. Plus I always thought I had a a nasty oil leak but always check oil and it’s always full, so leads me to believe the leaks are from those return lines. Love you guys thanks for the replies.

 

[M37M35]

I need to replace all of the return fuel lines, they all leak, like not dripping but sweating, are there special plastic tubes I need to replace them with or can I use solid steel line and flare them all so it never leaks again?

Most people use plastic DOT air line with good results, like Cattlerepairman said.
But when I replace mine, I'm going to use copper tubing. It shouldn't fatigue if well supported.

The other fuel lines you need to replace are the two from the booster pump to the secondary filters, and secondary filters to the hydraulic head. Those are usually plastic and carry 75 PSI. If one of those leaks, you have a big mess in a hurry!
People use DOT air line for those too, but I wanted something stronger, so I replaced mine with 4,800 PSI hydraulic hoses.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Most people use plastic DOT air line with good results, like Cattlerepairman said.
But when I replace mine, I'm going to use copper tubing. It shouldn't fatigue if well supported.

The other fuel lines you need to replace are the two from the booster pump to the secondary filters, and secondary filters to the hydraulic head. Those are usually plastic and carry 75 PSI. If one of those leaks, you have a big mess in a hurry!
People use DOT air line for those too, but I wanted something stronger, so I replaced mine with 4,800 PSI hydraulic hoses.
View attachment 829960
View attachment 829961

Awesome man great advice I’ll definitely be doing the same. Yeah those other hoses are clear plastic on mine and they look like they sweat but not leak, or it could be spray from another leak. Also, a little off topic but wanted to ask, I’ve seen there are filter mount upgrades like to spin on, but I like the old style filters they look cooler to me. Can I buy new cans? Last PM they seemed a bit out of round and I think they leak a little

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Thought I’d drop a nice pic of the truck

 

[M37M35]

Awesome man great advice I’ll definitely be doing the same.

If you want to use hydraulic hoses for those two lines like I did, I'll see if I can find my list for what parts are needed.

Also, a little off topic but wanted to ask, I’ve seen there are filter mount upgrades like to spin on, but I like the old style filters they look cooler to me. Can I buy new cans? Last PM they seemed a bit out of round and I think they leak a little

People swap to the spin-on oil filters because they have check valves that keeps the oil from draining out of them when the engine is shut down. That means the oil pressure builds up sooner when you start the engine because it's not having to refill the filters first. The original filters don't have the check valve and the oil drains out on shut down.

That said, I don't recall seeing the original cans for sale on surplus sites, but put a want ad on here and I'm sure a member that has swapped to spin-ons will make you good deal on their old ones.
I have my old ones around here somewhere, but I'm not the most organized person, so finding them would be a... challenge...

 

[V8srfun]

I just did the spin on upgrade and have the old cans sitting in the garage. I don’t know what shipping would cost but let me know if you are interested.

 

[M37M35]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/ or the supplier of your choice.

After installing the lines and before screwing the hose onto the hydraulic head for the final time, I put a bucket under the hose and ran the in-tank pump for a minute to flush any junk out so it wouldn't go into the HH.

Use a liquid thread sealant on the tapered threads, don't use Teflon tape.