It Worked!

[Barrman]

My M715 pulled one of the two M35's home Sunday. Here is a picture of the set up at the end of the 40 mile drive.

I did a write up on the Zone about it. If you want to read the entire story, you can use this.

http://m715zone.proboards102.com/index.cgi?board=bs&action=display&thread=1166452554

I still have one more to get. The previous owner informed us as we were prepping it for flat towing that all 4 rear brakes are locked up and the truck won't roll. So, we took the one pictured and figured we would worry about the brakes later. Now is later. I think I have a flat bed trailer lined up that can handle it. What I don't know is how to load it.

Anybody have any ideas?

My M715 is going to be the biggest vehicle around not hooked to the flat bed when we try loading the M35. I was thinking about running a cable through a snatch block on the front of the trailer to the M35 and my M715 and trying to pull in 4lo. Traction is going to be the killer there.

We could try beating the drums off the axles and hoping the bearings will allow the hubs to turn.

5 and 10 ton chain hoist laid out on the trailer and reset the cables a bunch.

Use the winch on the front of the non running M35 and wind it up with a pipe wrench on the PTO shaft.

That is all I can think of going from simple to rediculous.

Thanks.

By the way. Here are the numbers off the one I got home. The data plate says:

M35 W/WN
Stock # 603
REO
Serial # 107871 Model OC-54
Date: 1951

 

[Westech]

well good deal that you made it with no problems wile on the road, unlike my trip lol.

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

Glad that this worked safely for you. Is the one that the brakes are locked modified with spring brakes if so you can cage them and the truck will roll. The other thing is that locked brakes can often be freed by rolling or pulling the truck. We used to get drums frozen in the winter on our trucks in the motor pool and would somtimes have to drag them a while to free them up. Other than that I would consider using the winch you mentioned but take off the driveshaft and make up a socket converter and drive it with an impact wrench. A pipe wrench would be hard to get a new grip on. Hope this works for you and it is nice to see Texas again if only in pictures.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Before I got too crazy with these ideas I would get under the truck and losen up all the top adjusters on the rear axles. Then its a matter of bumping the truck back and forth until it breaks free. Just for kicks I would pull all 4 rear axle shafts too. Perhaps a pumpkin split up and is locking all 4 wheels. I bought one from GSA and the rubber was fused to the ground. Once we got it moved, chunks of tread stayed stuck to the ground. Oh, good work on the move.

Edit; just read the zone story. There are ways to fool this axle and this dude. If you're going to all the trouble of pulling tires, take a masive sledge and beat on the drums. Matter if fact, I've got a labor saving idea to get that thing out of there on its wheels. You said one wheel would spin (barely). Concentrate all your efforts on the other wheel. Remove the 10 nuts on the pressed studs holding the drum to the hub. Take a hammer and punch and knock them into the drum. If you beat on the drum and hammer it towards the backing plate, it should losen up and the hub will spin in the drum. May cause some collateral damage to the drum but it beats listening to the dude. As far as the othe axle, jack it up and chain it to the frame. You can drag it home on one rear axle.

 

[No.2Diesel]

Hi,

"I love it when a plan comes together"-George Peppard

That was def. a team effort.

I think many forum members would be very interested to know what kind of "torque reducing lug wrench" was used. It would make for piece of mind when travelling far from home. Its probably more compact and easier to use than a 10'ft. long piece of schedule 40 pipe, a monster pipe wrench, extended budd socket, and a jackstand to prevent the socket and extension from wandering from its axis of rotation. Will this wrench also tighten the nuts to 330ft.lbs.? Let us know the manufacturer.

As for the frozen brakes truck...Maybe you can jack it up and take all the wheels off and set it on some sort of homemade dolly made from trailer axles to winch or pull onto a trailer. I'm sure there is an easier way. That just popped into my head.

 

[Barrman]

Kenneth, that is a great idea.

The truck I got home has all new brake parts. Drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders. Well, they were new when they were put on the truck 25 years ago and never run. Anyway, I don't care about the drums or internals lasting on the truck still in the field. I like the push the studs out and spin the hub idea. That will let us get it on a trailer. I didn't have access to a trailer for the first truck. Plus, I wanted to prove the previous owner wrong and show him thay my M715 not only could, but would pull a M35.

David, I really like that air impact idea. Any idea on how to make such a gizmo up? I have a spare PTO shaft at the house, but I don't want to cut it up since it is going to be used on Pistolnut's M715 winch truck with a Duece transmission.

 

[pistolnut]

We had thought of torching or shattering the brake drum somehow to free that side up.

Barrman's lug wrench is a planetary drive affair operated with a couple of bars. It works on both the lugs and the inner (squarehead) studs. I was really impressed, it works easily and has tons of torque. It is a military piece made I think by Ken-tool.

 

[DDoyle]

I'm with Kenny - but I'd also pull the interaxle drive shaft - sounds like you need to lessen the rolling resistance all you can.

Another thought - and some of the other guys know a heck of a lot more about this than I do - but older civy wreckers (pre-rollback) often had dolly wheels they used.....perhaps chain up one axle, and put those top dollies under the other.

I'd also tell the former owner I was gonna put Blazer axles under the deuce and dump a 6.2 into it, and fill the bed with a giant boom box. Perhaps he'd get the hint!

Regards,
David

 

[jeli]

Re: RE: It Worked!

Barrman's lug wrench is a planetary drive affair operated with a couple of bars. It works on both the lugs and the inner (squarehead) studs. I was really impressed, it works easily and has tons of torque. It is a military piece made I think by Ken-tool.

My first Reserve unit had one. We could never get the lug nuts off without spinning the studs. This was slicker than sliced bread but slow. One of those contraptions you hated to use but would love to have now.

Question - How did it tow and how far did you have to go? I did some measuring today. It looks like you can take the tow mounts off the top the bumper and mount them under the bumper. That would make it almost a straight line pull hooked to my 2500HD. I don't like pulling 13K with 7K but I can afford to go slow if it works.

 

[Barrman]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

We had to go just under 40 miles. I had 2 stock M715 230 engines in the bed, a T-98 transmission, both clutches and bellhousings, a full cooler, 4 M35 rear axle shafts and a bunch of tools in the bed of my M715. It still wasn't enough. Uphill or on flat stretches, 35-40 were possible before the M35 started telling me where it wanted to go and pulling my truck in that direction. Down hill and in turns, 25 was about all I could do and feel comfortable with. It really didn't like coasting down a hill at any speed. I either had to be on the gas or on the brakes. The 40 mph was hit during the last 10 miles. I had gotten better and feeling what it would do and according to Pistolnut who was following me, the tires had all gotten round again. He said the first 20 miles all the tires on the M35 were different versions of round. He said the back end looked like one of those crooked axle clown cars.

We already have the axle shafts pulled from the truck in the field. Drive train drag is no existant. Only the brakes and bearings are keeping it from spinning.

I would advise you to put as much dense weight in the back of your 2500HD as possible. I was unable to attach the tow bar to the shackles on top of the bumper. I used the axle wrap chain adaptors. This gave my tow bar an upward slant to my M715. That didn't help going down hill I am sure. Get it as close to level as you can and be carefull. Have a chase vehicle driven by somebody who can think and has patients. IT sure made my day better.

 

[steelsoldiers]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

Great story and great rescue. I must admit that I thought you were going to have trouble pulling a deuce with a 715, but in this case I am glad to be proved wrong. I think you'll end up with some great trucks and an even better story about how you got them home! Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[m.walker]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

I'm glad it worked out , it so much less stress when you can get them home and then figure out what your going to do , 1 down 1 to go . I hate blow hards like that guy , it'll be great when you get it to roll and hooked up to leave and just say " see you obviously dont know as much as you thought !!! "

 

[pistolnut]

Re: RE: It Worked!

Barrman's lug wrench is a planetary drive affair operated with a couple of bars. It works on both the lugs and the inner (squarehead) studs. I was really impressed, it works easily and has tons of torque. It is a military piece made I think by Ken-tool.

My first Reserve unit had one. We could never get the lug nuts off without spinning the studs. This was slicker than sliced bread but slow. One of those contraptions you hated to use but would love to have now.

Yeah, that's about it. Slow but works great and doesn't spin the studs as you mentioned. The PO who knew everything told us that he always threw them away when they showed up in his unit. He said if you get a bind on them they will hurt somebody. I guess I can see this, but thats true of any lug wrench. I think if soldier A has some sense that this is a great tool.

 

[No.2Diesel]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

Thanks for tool identification. I will acquire one soon.

 

[Barrman]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

I just had another thought on loading the frozen wheel truck. (I am going to try everything I can to make them turn, but)

If they do or don't turn, either way I am going to have to get the truck on the trailer. Wheels spinning will probably make it ok for my M715 to pull it up with a cable snatch blocked on the front of the trailer. More than 2 tires locked will probably just leave my M715 spinning its tires and the M35 part way up the ramps. I have some chain hoist, but nothing rated to handle the M35 by itself. My thought was to hook up the tow bar to the front of the M35, connect a chain hoist to the back and try loading it backwards with the M715 helping, but not doing the main work. Someone would have to be in the M35 to steer. I know about trying to back up with the tow bars, but was wondering if a little push in a straight line would bend them up?

 

[gimpyrobb]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

Why not push it on? Hook it up like the m35 would be pulling the 715, and give it all she's got!

 

[Barrman]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

That is another crazy but good thought Chris. I don't have the proper M715 adaptors like you do though. I just painted my bumper last week and don't want to scratch it all up with the chain adaptors either.

But, I like these crazy ideas and will think about it. Thanks.

 

[alphadeltaromeo]

Re: RE: It Worked!

I'd also tell the former owner I was gonna put Blazer axles under the deuce and dump a 6.2 into it, and fill the bed with a giant boom box. Perhaps he'd get the hint!

Regards,
David

Ok...that gave me a good laugh David...thanks hehe

 

[sermis]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

Tim, I still think if you can ever get it to pull the brakes will release. If not leave the trailer attached to your truck and use snatch blocks and cable. Pull it with another truck to pull it on the trailer. Make sure you block under the back of the trailer.
If all else fails let me know. I have access to a 18 wheeler wrecker.

 

[Recovry4x4]

RE: Re: RE: It Worked!

Here are a few thoughts. If the ramps and trailer deck are flat steel or wood, a healthy dose of dish soap helps tires slide, do that all the time when loading on a rollback. Can you scare up 3 snatch blocks? If you can try this. Freespool out about 100' of cable off the winch then enage the drive clutch again. Reave the cable through a bolck on the front of the trailer then back through another block on the truck then back again to the front of the trailer into the 3rd block. Once through the 3rd block run the return line to the M715 and pull it up with the M715. That should give the M715 some pretty decent ability to drag the M35. I have more thoughts but need to see what kind of trailer you plan on using. Can you post a pic of the trailer?