Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Thank you, good sir. Could you elaborate a bit more for a HMMWV newb?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
It's alive!!!
- Thread starter Thunderbirds
- Start date
- 6,899
- 9,560
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
There is a terminal on the regulator marked IGN, it is the second to smallest stud, the smallest stud is a run indication to the EESS box and for the time being inconsequential.
The IGN terminal must have 24V or thereabouts on it or the alt will not charge, it gets the 24V from the EESS box when the run switch is turned to run.
If you do not have this voltage check and see if the heater fan runs when the switch is in the run position, they both get power from the same source.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Thanks!
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Hey @Mogman,
good news. bad news situation. I only have 12.4 volts at that terminal. That is with engine off and running, so I am hoping it may be a quick fix and no need to purchase a new regulator... Do you have an idea where to look next for the other battery voltage?
Thanks in anticipation.
EDIT:
BTW, the fan switch gets power, the fan turns on. Also, the voltage at 12.4 is low because I had started the truck numerous times, and the batteries have not been charged since. They are brand new Group 24Fs from Wally World. I do have a 12V charger connected to each right now since my 24V charger from Amazing hasn't arrived yer.
Last edited:
- 6,899
- 9,560
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Yes all diag. should be done with fully charged batteries, it may be the fan is only getting 12.5V also it will run but not at full speed.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
I should have been more clear I believe, each battery has 12.4, for a total 24.6 at the batteries... So I am thinking there is a broken link somewhere, but I don't yet understand the charging system enough to know where each lines go, and where fuses or shunts are that could interrupt half the voltage.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Major correction!!!
I took the measurement from the smallest stud. I must be tired from a long day. Duh. The 2nd smallest stud has 0 Volts... Hmmm, now I am needing to find out why the lack of power. So sorry if I mislead anyone.
- 6,899
- 9,560
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Do this, put your meter on the IGN terminal of the regulator, then check voltage with the fan OFF and then on HIGH with the run switch on, if there is a connection issue there should be a difference in voltage.
There is a contactor (relay) in the EESS box that feeds 24V to the fan and regulator when the switch is in run (IIRC some EESS boxes use several small relays in parallel to do this job)
It would probably be a good idea to pull the connectors to the EESS box to make sure nothing looks like it is/was getting hot, make sure to disconnect the batteries any time you connect/disconnect the EESS box.
There is a contactor (relay) in the EESS box that feeds 24V to the fan and regulator when the switch is in run (IIRC some EESS boxes use several small relays in parallel to do this job)
It would probably be a good idea to pull the connectors to the EESS box to make sure nothing looks like it is/was getting hot, make sure to disconnect the batteries any time you connect/disconnect the EESS box.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Not sure if my last post made it to you in time, there is 0 volts to the IGN stud with the ignition switch in the run or with the engine running.
Since the fan is running at different speeds in hi and low (and sounds strong) I am suspecting the relay working. This weekend I will remove the EESS box and continuity check the wire from the EESS plug to the regulator connector. Hopefully it is interrupted in a repairable fashion and that would be a quick fix.
- 6,899
- 9,560
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
OH, OK I thought you said there was 12.5V on the IGN terminal.
Next check the wire number, it should be 5A to the IGN terminal, there may be a smaller wire 568 that should be capped and tied back against the harness, in any case 568 should not be used on the 200A alt, the wire going to the A/C tap (the smallest stud) should be 2A
These studs should be marked on the reg as IGN and A/C tap.
The wire numbers are small aluminum tags on the wire.
Next check the wire number, it should be 5A to the IGN terminal, there may be a smaller wire 568 that should be capped and tied back against the harness, in any case 568 should not be used on the 200A alt, the wire going to the A/C tap (the smallest stud) should be 2A
These studs should be marked on the reg as IGN and A/C tap.
The wire numbers are small aluminum tags on the wire.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Thanks for the info...
I didn't even get that far. Removed the batteries, disconnected the canon-plug under the hood, next to the washer fluid container. Then wanted to take off the nut on the ignition stud of the regulator. Voila, the wire came lose in my hand.
The culprit that caused the issue was shoddy wire maintenance. The interruption was right there at the stud terminal.
I then replaced the terminal on that wire, reconnected to the regulator, reconnected the canon-plug, reinstalled the batteries, started up Huzzah, needle is in the green on the voltmeter. In my excitement I forgot to take a voltage reading at the terminal, but it all works now.
This brings up another issue. In the troubleshooting, step one is to inspect the serpentine belt for tightness, glazing, security and so on. Then I found this:
Take a look at the rear pulley. The mounting nut was loose and backed off, causing the pulley to tilt upward 1/8" to almost a 1/4". I am wondering how the belt stayed on. Now I think I will replace the belt, just because of the uneven stress it had for who knows how long.
Here is from the other side:
So it pays to follow every step of the troubleshooting tree. I probably wouldn't have paid that much attention to it, but probably would have found it eventually when replacing the belt some day.
Hey @Mogman, thank you very much for your patience, and mentorship. By giving me instructions in plain terms and staying on the job with me, you saved me multiple hours of research to even get to this step. One day, I hope to buy you a drink of your choice.
Attachments
Last edited:
- 2,969
- 4,350
- 113
- Location
- Olympia/WA
keep the used belt in the spare parts bin in the truck, along with some idler pulley bearings in case you have an idler lock up while driving away from civilization, as there is no guarantee of finding the belt locally.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Excellent point, thanks!
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Sooo, a few more troubles going on.
While searching for Serpentine Belt, I found one on Fleabay with 3 pictures. The first had a government issued belt, with military tags and other marking for $42 +S&H. The other two pictures were from an aftermarket belt. The markings on them were PK82490. Google search revealed the brand Bando. Here is a screenshot of the dimension on a autoparts store:
So it seems to match the OEM... This store charges $46.99. But on other sites the prices start at $15 to $66... Anyone have this brand/parts number installed? Any issues?
And, while trying to drain the front differential, I noticed my fill plug was very loosely put in place, the diff is near empty and the drain plug hex is stripped (good thing I didn't drive it but up the driveway). The plug still has the original CARC or Rhino liner around it, so I am guessing it hasn't been removed in years. I most likely will have to take the cover off to drain and inspect (the TM doesn't show a gasket, so RTV ok?), but any suggestions how to remove the drain plug? I've applied butane torch heat to the case, no go. Thinking of tack-welding an Allen wrench to it to tap it lose. Will have to replace for sure.
While searching for Serpentine Belt, I found one on Fleabay with 3 pictures. The first had a government issued belt, with military tags and other marking for $42 +S&H. The other two pictures were from an aftermarket belt. The markings on them were PK82490. Google search revealed the brand Bando. Here is a screenshot of the dimension on a autoparts store:
So it seems to match the OEM... This store charges $46.99. But on other sites the prices start at $15 to $66... Anyone have this brand/parts number installed? Any issues?
And, while trying to drain the front differential, I noticed my fill plug was very loosely put in place, the diff is near empty and the drain plug hex is stripped (good thing I didn't drive it but up the driveway). The plug still has the original CARC or Rhino liner around it, so I am guessing it hasn't been removed in years. I most likely will have to take the cover off to drain and inspect (the TM doesn't show a gasket, so RTV ok?), but any suggestions how to remove the drain plug? I've applied butane torch heat to the case, no go. Thinking of tack-welding an Allen wrench to it to tap it lose. Will have to replace for sure.
- 6,059
- 4,423
- 113
I did mine with RTV in 2019. No issues yet.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Now I would need help/advice on the differentials. Since I couldn’t get the drain plug out, I removed the cover on the front. The diff was completely empty, like it was drained. The cover was still stuck to the RTV, and the drain plug couldn’t be removed, HOW did the diff get THAT empty??? Completely empty? And the rear seems to be the same way (haven’t pulled the cover, yet) It seems if there were a leak, there would be at least a cupfull left, but I had about 1 tablespoon in there… Any ideas?
- 333
- 508
- 93
- Location
- Cleveland,TN
Depending on who had it last, many are drained of fluids when"retired".
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
That is what I thought of first too. Then again, the RTV seal was still stuck, the draiin plug is stripped and won’t budge, and all the other fluids were still full. So weird…
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 258
- 370
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Hey again,
Last night I started on the rear. The bolts were barely more than finger tight, and empty. So, I am now leaning, just like you, that it was supposed to be drained, but only the two transfer cases were done. I am digging in to the hubs next, let's wait and see what they have.
Man, good thing I didn't give in to the urge to take the rig for a spin on the property. Could have ruined it all.
Front:
Rear:
Got it all cleaned up and later used the black Permatex RTV made for gear oil. The red stuff was sort of "soaked" and smeared a bit when I rubbed it. Didn't like that too much.
- 1,491
- 1,662
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
If you have welding available, that's probably the best option. Otherwise you might try drilling it with a left-hand drill bit, OR drill it from the inside with a regular drill bit. Start with a small-ish bit and work your way up until it comes out or gets too close to the threads. Then tack an L wrench or hex bolt into the hole you made and see if it'll come out then.
If not, order a new cover.