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I've searched 12 volts........

59apache

Chipmaker
1,299
29
48
Location
Bavaria / Germany
the decision which way to go depends on what you want / need.
if you want a 12V system that is independent from the truck system, go to a second alt and 3rd batterie.
pro:
you din't have to think about overloading an converter,
you can drain the battery and your truck will start...nice with a cooler, working lights, etc.
con:
effort

converter:
pro:
easy to install
no 3rd battery

con:
limited power
efficiency....the converter itself needs (consumes) power, even in standby.
the original charging system is, well... not really powerfull.
i don't remember exactly, was it an 40A or 60A alternator?

12V 750W = 62,5A....

my 2 cents..
 
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phil2968

Active member
2,591
18
38
Location
Lakeland, Florida
With the converter I posted a link to earlier this thread you can run a third battery. I have never seen an alternator that has unlimited power.
24 volt to 12 volt DC/DC converters (fully regulated) from 100 to 700 Watts non-isolated and isolated.
A converter that just produces 12volts can't charge a battery but one that is adjustable and can make 13.8volts or more will keep a battery up.
Considering the stock deuce has little draw when not running lights the stock 24 volt 60 amp alt will make enough power. The stock alt can make 1680 watts, 28 volts times 60 amps! And yes 28 volts is correct.
 

Thunder in NWOR

New member
130
0
0
Location
Northwest Oregon
phil2968 -Sir;
I'm as dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to things electrical, so please indulge me a moment. I like the idea of a third, 12, battery (deep cycle batt???) separate and independent from the 24 system to power GPS, CB, Cell phone, 12v fan, cab lite.
I looked at your link to Power Stream, but, ref, box rocks, am unsure of which unit would best suit me, for the above.
Your suggestion of unit/model, please (I know final selection is on my own hook and hold noone else reponsible for my actions!).
Thanks - Mark
(dual volt alts seem neat but wow expensive - and dual alts for my M35A3 seem to still be evolving...)
 

phil2968

Active member
2,591
18
38
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Figure your max amp draw from all your accessories multiplied by 12 volts to give you a wattage to work with. Or you could just buy the biggest they have! If one converter is not big enough you can always run more than one. Get a deep cycle battery and tie it in to positive side of the converter with the voltage set to 13.8 to14 volts.
 

paramedic7831

New member
96
0
0
Location
Thomasville, Georgia- USA
Ok maybe a easy question for yal. Say I wanted to run 3 of these ProComp Suspension Part 9003 - 100 Watt 6" Light by Pro Comp

And I got this PSWNV720 24V DC To 12V DC Power Step Down 720 Watt Converter W/ PMW Technology (068888905381) | eBay

Would this mean I would be pulling 300w with the lights on? Would the inverter handle this? I'm only assuming the inverter is good for 360w all the time instead of the 720W peak. Not really sure what peak is on an inverter. I mean when would you only need a surge of power instead of continuous? would my alt. handle this? I'm retarted when It comes to after market electrical stuff. I want some extra lights but the price range between all the inverters out there is huge. Dont want a $600 inverter if a $70 would do the trick. thx guys
 
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DeucesWild11

Active member
1,265
12
38
Location
Putnam County, NY
Paramedic.. Not sure what bulbs they run but consider this.. the PIAA lights on the front of my truck were set up with 100W 12v H3 bulbs. I just switched the bulbs in them to 24V H3 75W.. No need for any conversion at all. That tip was given to me by another SS member on here.. Thanks can't remember who it was though..
 

greg2560

New member
145
1
0
Location
Yoakum Texas
Paramedic.. Not sure what bulbs they run but consider this.. the PIAA lights on the front of my truck were set up with 100W 12v H3 bulbs. I just switched the bulbs in them to 24V H3 75W.. No need for any conversion at all. That tip was given to me by another SS member on here.. Thanks can't remember who it was though..

good ideal see if there is a 24v sub ffor the bulb if removeable [thumbzup]
 

BEASTMASTER

Active member
899
142
43
Location
Burgaw, N.C.
any of you guys see an old comm. bus in a scrap yard you will want to grab the conv.. its in the batt. compartment and is just secured with 4 1/4" bolts.
 

BEASTMASTER

Active member
899
142
43
Location
Burgaw, N.C.
hey crazywelder, i got one of those conv. after i fried my big one by overloading it. if you put a volt meter on that thing you might find that you're only getting 10.3 volts out of it. it will run the radio and cell chgr. but it wont take care of anyting that uses a lot of juice. have fun. like they say , you get what you pay for. enjoy.aua
 

beemerphile

New member
29
0
0
Location
Danielsville, GA USA
For lights (if the fixture doesn't have a grounded frame) it is usually possible to pair two of them in series. That is what I did with a couple of 12v sealed beam back-up lamps. I just had a supplier tell me that it was no problem to hook a 272 amp 12 volt dump hoist to only one of the batteries. When I didn't buy that, he suggested that I swap the solenoid out and run it on 24 volts as the motor "could handle it". Unbelievably when I contacted the manufacturer, he did not agree. However, for another $120 he could provide a proper 24 volt pump. Gee, that's less than all of the other methods for high draw 12 volt service. The manufacturers of the equalizers say that too much or sustained load above the rating will damage them and the largest I could find was 100 amps for $560. My options for the dump hoist were limited to a standalone 12v system (battery and alternator) or converting the truck to 12 volts. Faced with that, a $120 upcharge for a 24 volt pump was easy to swallow. I have a 10 amp converter for the convenience 12 volt items.
 
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