Jeep will not start...???

[Brad]

Gee I feel like an idiot having to come on here every time I have trouble. But I guess thats what its for.
Anyway, my old Jeep, titled a 42 but it aint? I'm pretty sure its a 48? But that dont matter, same old 4 cyl engine.
It had sat for years but I got it started right up two years ago and it ran great, But the radiator was full of crap as well as the block.
Anyway I tore it apart then with the intention of putting it right back together, But then Dad got sick and we had allot of other more pressing problems.
But now I have it all cleaned up and ran a hot wire to the coil, and distributor as I see on the diagrams. Pretty sure its timed right to.
But other than an occassional sputter it will not start.
The spark at the points looks pretty weak.
I pulled a plug and could see no spark at the plug. But it did shock me as I helpthe wire, but not tooo bad.
It seems to be getting plenty of gas.
Could the condener be bad and causing this problem?? The points look fine, the plugs are clean.
I took off the carb and took it apart and cleaned it all up, but no difference.
Just a little sputter every now and again???
Any ideas????
Thanks in advance.

 

[gungearz]

I would rebuild the entire distributor or if your not to caring about military correct... I would put in a HEI distributor for better throttle response and dependability...

 

[Brad]

Thanks for yer opinion. I'm sure thats what it needs in the long run.
For now, I just need to make sure its going to start.
Am I correct in that the distributer will ONLY GO IN ONE WAY????
Even so, I think I have the timing correct. With #1 plug out when I hold my thumb over the cylinder, when it is on the up compression stroke and blows my thumb off the hole. the rotor id pointing at the "5" o'clock position. That means that is the number one wire, right??
Then I install the plug wires COUNTER CLOCKWISE from there, #1, #3, #4 & #2.
Pretty simple if I understand it correctley??
But as I said, the spark at the points looks real weak. And there is no visible spark at the plugs, though I was mildly shocked while holding a plug wire.
Is there any way to test the coil or condenser????
As for my temporary wiring, I have a wire ran from the positive (+) battery terminal to the small post on the coil, and from the other small post on the coil to the terminal on the side of the coil. And of course, a heavy battery wire to the starter.
All the grounds are fine. The coil ignition wire to the distributer, and the plug wires as described.
What could be the problem???
Thanks guys

 

[zout]

IF you lift the coil out of the dist - is there a waffer looking item in the bottom of the housing that is wired into the coil - that is a resistor. If that's the case call John up at Midwest Military for a replacement coil and leave that resistor out of it.

 

[gungearz]

You time the motor with a timing light... the finger on the plug hole is a old trick to get it close... you can only set the true timing with the timing light....

 

[Brad]

Thanks again guys, Still no luck.
There is no wafer in the distributer. There are no marks in the pulley or anywhere on the front of the engine to use a light.
I have ordered the parts to rebuild the distributer. But I have already had it all apart and it and the points, etc, are just like new. Of course there is no way of telling the condenser.
However I have several "new old stock" condensers, one even cross refrences that it will wor, and I get the same results.
Just an occassional put or sputter.
The fact that I see no spark at all on the pluf, and very weak at the points makes me think its the coil or condenser.
But I have to say that when I'm cranking it sometimes I'll choke it and it seems that is when it sputters???? But it seems to be getting gas.
I have pput a little gas sown the carb in the old trick to get it going but that does nothing?
I guess I'll but a new coil also and see what that does.
Thi sure is crazy!?!?!
Thanks again

 

[gerrykan]

If the starter motor is pulling to many amps, it could also cause a weak spark.
Is the Jeep 6 volt, or 12 volt?

 

[Brad]

It is six volt.
I have cleaned the surface between the starter and bell housing. I have taken apart and cleaned the ground strap surfaces.
I wonder if it could be that I have cleaned and painted the distributer housing?? It's a long shot in that I did not paint the inside or the contact area with the block. Just the outer area that is visable.
Still, I just do not know what it could be. Other than a rare and weal sputter it shows no sign of starting???
I should get my new points, condenser, rotor and cao tomorrow, If that dont do it, I have no idea???
Thanks guys

 

[jeepsguy]

Timing marks may be on the flywheel. There's a little port to view them. Check an early CJ manual.

 

[Brad]

I have located the timing marks on the flywheel and they jive with everything else I have done to set the timing.
I have installed new points and condenser, rotor and cap. Checked they plug wires. Everything checks out.
There is gas in the carb. The fuel pump is only two years old and pumps strong.
I removed the side plate and voewed the lifters / valves all working fine.
Still it will not start?
I know when I find it it will be something simple.
When I first attempted to start the jeep it ran rough for several seconds then quit.
I am going to remove the timing gear cover and see if it somehow jumped time??? But still, by rotating the distributor while cranking I should be able to compensate if it is a tooth or two out??
Thanks and I welcome any suggestions

 

[zout]

OP - went back and read the first post.
You stated it ran - but then you went onto cleaning the cooling system as well because of the debris.

For the time it sat I find it hard to believe something mechanical deterioated or locked up on you. But not saying it cannot happen as well. Man made it so it can fubar at any time it wants to.

I suggest pulling the plugs and doing a compression check on it first at this time. GO back to the basics.
Compression
Fuel
Air
Igniton
fresh gasoline with a new filter

Start with #1 and shoot us the results. I would leave the timing issue aside for right now.

 

[Jeff Lakaszcyck]

Brad, I read over everything you did and you said it might be something simple so here goes: When you changed the points did you set the gap ? It should be 0.016 on that old flathead if I remember correctly. Set the gap with the points on the high side of the cam on the distributor.

Zout has some good advice above it is not the points.

 

[Adrian A]

Will it start with ether?
That will help rule out fuel or ignition.

 

[retired wrench]

If a coil is wired backwards it will work but the output is cut drastically.

 

[lstmate]

I have an issue with the cap on my cJ2a dist. asm. The notch to line up the cap is broken on one side and it can be on with the latches holding it on and look like it is correct but it will not run or spit and sputter not running. All I have to do is to realign it so that it is still correct.

 

[Amer-team]

Just spent a lot of time on the M38A1 with similar issues, replace cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, rebuilt carb, new coil, timing, and it was still sputtering. finally put in a new condensor and it fired right up. If you pull the coil wire out of the distributor and have someone crank while you are holding to ground, do you get a blue spark or a white spark. If blue, you coil may be a bit weak. Also you can get a condensor, that while new, doesn't work. Good luck on this.